Situation: re-roofing, where the new roof meets the wall siding of a higher section of the house. i.e. lower attached garage roof next to house gable wall. See green area of sketch.
How do you deal with step flashing when the (old) existing shingle siding probably would get damaged if you tried to remove it or pull it away a bit to insert the step flashing?
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
Replies
There is no existing step?
In my situation, I am not sure. There is at least two layers of shingles. No step-flashing visible at the eave edge.If you are thinking to re-use any existing step-flashing, I am imagining it would have holes in it from the old layers of shingles.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
When you remove all the asphalt products, the step flashing will be positioned and ready to go. If any is damaged, it will have to be replaced. Sometimes, the siding gets damaged when you replace flashings. That's part of the deal. Skill craftsmen can minimize and/or eliminate that collateral damage.
A lot depends on what kind of siding is there.
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I think he mentioned shingle siding?
No shortcuts around this, some siding has to go for the flashing to be installed.
if the steps are in good shape and not corroded... the you can reuse them
but a lot of the time, you are just asking for trouble... so we strip the siding up about 3 feet ( high enough so you can work a shingle thief )... if there is a feature not too much higher than that... then strip to the feature ... it will be a lot faster than trying to thief shingles...
then replace the step flashing.... do your roofing... then replace your sidingMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I was afraid that was the "answer". I'd rather NOT have to destroy and replace the shingles, painted red-cedar. I didn't paint them, I got the house that way.I've tried color matching the paint, but the original has faded unevenly. The different fading looks fine to me. But new painted shingles stand out. I've gone that route when I replaced windows.The only "positive" that helps me to remove and re-install the shingles is that they were face nailed (small head ringed shingle nails) on the exposed bottom edge. No idea why.Thanks for all the replies.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
You're saying there are no blind nails in the sidewall shingles?? That's dead wrong, but it makes your work a piece of cake. You could hardly get luckier.
Small blessings, in otherwise rough and long running renovation.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
The existing step flashing can generally be reused.
I recently got into this debate with another carpenter. Here's the answer. After any flashing goes in, it's generally a "no-no" to nail through it while nailing down shingles, for obvious reasons, less holes in the flashing, less of a chance of water penetrating. So with that in mind, once you (carefully) strip off your layer of shingles, you're step flashing should be in tact and ready to accept the new layer of shingles. But again, be gentle when stripping off the shingles that are close to that edge. Good luck!
This is why a layer of bituthane between the wall and the roof, under the flashing, a good idea. Nailing through the flashing should be minimized of course, but it can't be eliminated. Nails through the I&W are self sealing.
So simple and effective.
That is not the reason for either.The I&W is to run up wall behind to catch back-ups.The reason to try and not nail in the flashing is to make it possible to re-roof and replace. 'course, if Phil's original roofer did not do right, it does not much matter.Hey Phil, since you already have two roofs on this, odds are good the flashing is old enough to require replacement anyways this time around. Some roofers always replace any and all flashing each time. Some try to avoid it as much as possible. I tear-off shingles carefully and made a good assessment whether replacing flashing is necessary. I lean towards replace, rather than save, partly because there is so much poor and sloppy work hidden that I have to rely on the warrantee my work.
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Paul ,
My decision is usually based on condition , type of siding and size of overhangs too .
Most of my jobs are on older homes so I don't often see coil stock as steps !!
Walter
The ones that scare me are when the step flashing is only 2" tall and the old pith paper under them is britle and gone a generation agao
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Yup , I hate those tiny steps . Usually easy to remove though !
I'm thinking maybe his house is mucch newer and the reason two layers is hail damage
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I figure any flashing is possibly >50 years old. If it exists. That particular roof section and the addition was done by a cost-cutter, from the stories I've been told by the old-OLD-timers around here.So whether it exists or not, there's new flashing in store. I might NEED to re-roof that section, much sooner than I want. I'd rather wait til I can afford to do that plus re-side the house. That section of roof is pretty old, at least older than 27 years (standard 3 tab). Either that or it hasn't "weathered" as well as the other sections of roof that I know is 27 years old.BTW, no hail damage. We don't get much hail here on Long Island. Not the damaging kind anyway.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
Am I confusing you with someone else with a similar screen name, or do you have a house in Denver and Ontario too? Retired from AG Edwards?
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No one with a similar screen name as mine.Wish I had multiple homes! I just have the one here , in East Patchogue, New York on Long Island.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
Pete Shlagor?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Yes.
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