I am replacing an asphalt roof with standing seam metal. The siding on the house is cedar shakes. Any good ideas about how to strip them back enough to turn the metal up at all end wall and side wall junctions. This is a big house! I can’t imagine stepping them back out of the way without ending up tearing off most of the shingles.
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There is no easy fix that I know of. You can either remove and replace the shakes that are in the way, or else cut them off cleanly where your flashing needs to go and install a trim board over the metal roof. The trim board would also need to be flashed of course.
never seen one of these?http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/hand_tools/dasco_pro/shingle_ripper.htm?E+coastest
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I've seen it on TV (TOH) years ago. There has been a few times when I would have liked to have one of those, but didn't know where to get one. Thanks for the link.
There is a tool called a shingle thief used for reaching up under to remove shingles and the nails that hold them.
To replace them after the flashing is in place, for the last course, you tap it back up in to within a quarter inch of where it belongs, then use a 4d fine nailed up under the lap at an angle. Then tap it up the rest of thje way and the nails disappear under the next course
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for the last course, you tap it back up in to within a quarter inch of where it belongs, then use a 4d fine nailed up under the lap at an angle. Then tap it up the rest of thje way and the nails disappear under the next course
I understand what yur doing... cake and pie....
the use of the 4d's raised an eyebrow???
4d's work for sure???? and hold??? and stay???
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For a single course - not the whole thing. they bend and hide easier. There is pressure on the new shingle from what is above also
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got it...
thanks...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
thanks for mentioning that shingle ripper. I thought about that but most of the work is the first course or maybe two next to the roof. I'm not sure if its going to work so well confined like that and coming at the shingles from the side. Sawzall is goinig to be tough fit also. Even if i cut out that bottom course its going to be impossible to slide a new 15'' tall shingle up under the existing shingles/nails/cut nails etc. once the roofers done. Putting up a board to cover the flashing sounds easier but its pretty cheesy the way i see it. anyboby have any more ideas?? much appreciated!
Hate to say it but I think you will have to start at about the 3rd. course of sidewall shingles up from the roof and remove them with the shingle ripper.
Then when you have the 2nd course exposed punch or pull the nails through it , then the 1st. course as well.
Install the flashings etc. then reshingle. Simply no other good way to get it done correctly that I know of.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
if you're going to thief shingles, you might as well break off the first 18" or so... because they are just in the way
from about the 4th course up or so , you can use a thief....
if the installers used non-standard methods, thiefing is much harder
whenever i get into a thief situation , i alwasy figure on replaceing 3' of shingles
a lot of times, if it is a close call... we'll rip all the way to a rake or a soffit
or some horizonatl stopping point
thiefing shingles is so slow that if you have a choice between thiefing 3' or ripping 5'.... it's a no -brainerMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I was afraid this was going to be more ripping and tearing then surgical shingle removal. if you had a cedar shingled shed dormer 24 feet long poking up above a roof that needed new metal and the face of the shed dormer is about 5 feet high and the two sidewalls go from 5 feet at the corner up to nothing at the ridge you would just tear all the shingles off the whole thing just to allow for 6 inches of metal flashing at the bottom??? thanks for the help bro.
Yeah, it'd be easier to just redo the whole thing for that kind of siuation.
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not only that , but you may find that the original installers of the sidewall shingles didn't flash it right to begin with
you put a new roof on and now you own it
sorry.... i'd probably rip the whole cheekMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I'll ditto you one more. What Mike and Paul said.
By the time you get done playing around you'd be better off tearing it all down.
This is a classic of what my boss would want us to do; try to 'save' the rest of the shingles.[email protected]
No - it won't work close to the roof. You need to take up 3-4-5 courses to get it right.
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