I’m working on a bathroom with existing copper pipe to the shower valve. The cold supply line was originally installed out of plumb and now I need to pull the pipe back flush to install the tile backer going in. I need to get it back about 3/8’s to clear the backer, which is 1/2. The pipe has a slight bow causing it to protrude near the valve housing, and has two couplings (one at 12 , the other at 17 up the pipe). The couplings were sloppily installed years ago causing the pipe to be out of plumb. What can I do to put the pipe back plumb so it will clear the backer board? I’d rather not cut it out and replace the section if I can avoid it.
I’m considering just strapping it and pulling it back, but I would have limited space to attach the strap and pull it back.
The connection to the valve is threaded, and I think I can give it about a 10 degree turn to straighten out the pipe, and there is enough “play” in it that the excess would easily move up the path. Unfortunately, this is a connection that is 35 years old and I’m afraid it will start to leak. It looks like it is sealed with joint compound and looks like it had some seepage after installation that “self-healed” over time. Should I try to twist that connection 10 or 15 degrees?
What would you do?
Replies
If you are putting in tile backer (and I assume tile on top of it)
why mess around with old plumbing.
cut hot and cold supply, put in shark bite ball valves, and replace the valve and shower head.
last thing you want to do is try to bend and leave old plumbing behind a new tile job.
Well, that would be a whole other project! If I did that, I'd have to put in angle valves to the water supply while the water was off, and the pipes run through our ceiling. Besides, the pipes are otherwise in good condition and working well. I'm looking for a simple solution. Thanks for the thought, Mike.
https://www.sharkbite.com/resources/blog/myth-vs-fact-closer-look-sharkbite-behind-wall-underground
..and you're going to believe everything the manufacturer says. (Do you know what the term "conflict of interest" means?) Has it been independently tested for 75 years under various conditions? It's only been on the market for 18 years.
...and you're going to automatically believe authority figures that give "approvals"? So many products in every walk of life have been "approved" by some agency only to be recalled/withdrawn from the market, etc because of some undiscovered risk. Poly B and "Kitec" Pex plumbing was withdrawn from the market.--class action lawsuits. Boeing is nearly bankrupt because of its "approved" 737 Max.
Me? I'll believe Matt Risinger who used to be a contributor to Fine Homebuilding.--a very high-end contractor in Texas and a building science expert/speaker at numerous trade shows. ...Tremendously educational videos he produces.
Go to just before the 5:00 mark for the start of his conclusions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1E8X1VawLeE
Please try to use some critical thinking skills.
Another option, if the pipes really are in good shape, is to cut the back of the backer board to fit around the pipes.
I bet a masonry grinder blade would do the trick, but make lots of dust, so be prepared with breathing protection.
Thank you so much for the condescending insult.
For my comparison of shark bites, consider copper joints that fail years later due to improper care or defective parts.
As an example, I had a sweated copper fitting leak over my kitchen that had popcorn texture on the ceiling. Was installed by the builder. In this case I replaced with copper, but the point is it failed.
for a homeowner DIY, I submit that a sharkbite fitting is simpler to install properly, and less likely to suffer from technique or material choice failures.
and I had suggested using sharkbite shutoff valves, which should be put where they are accessible, otherwise, what is the point?
You're the one who started it by doubling-down and referring to a self-serving video from the manufacturer. If you had simply said, Yes, there are better methods but I didn't think the homeowner would know how to sweat solder or properly install a compression fitting.....
After I pointed out two other "approved" continent-wide plumbing disasters, you doubled-down once again and relate the story about your leak.--as though your leak from a fitting of unknown origin, somehow negates the tried and true methods.
I'm sorry, I thought that this was "FINE Homebuilding".
"Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding it's way through our political an cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge." ---Isaac Asimov
I submit that you "started it" with the blanket do not use, stating they do not belong inside walls. and that my suggestion was improper.
I just pointed to some info that indicated the products are ok in walls. (which I take to imply that they are intended to be used in concealed locations)
I have no interest in the company, or in arguing with you.
there are nicer ways to discuss and make your point.
Don't use shark bite fittings inside a wall as UncleMike42 suggests. Do the job properly and avoid potential future problems.
I second cutting it out and fixing it. Why would you trust a connection you’ve already said seems questionable. I don’t think I’ve done a single bathroom where we didn’t guy most of the plumbing, seems like the time to do it.
but back to the original point,
I would not touch the fitting you are considering rotating, unless you want to take it all out and replace.
I would think it much more likely to leak if you rotate an old fitting.