Hello all,
Need some guidance.
ten years ago, I built a 2 story 36′ x 52′ gambrel barn. I sided the barn with T-111. I hired a local painter to paint my new barn red.
Now, the paint is peeling off the barn (especially on the east and south sides) in long strips and is apparently lifting a thin film of the T-111 along with it. Where the paint isn’t peeling, it’s cracked on long, thin parallel lines running vertically down the T-111.
I took some of the strips to a local paint store and they tell me the T-111 was never prepped properly, which is why the paint is peeling and otherwise distressed. They also tell me the right way to fix the situation is to completely strip the T-111 of its existing paint, then prime and paint correctly.
So, any wisdom about the most efficient way to prep the surface (methods, tools) especially how to get in the grooves, etc.
Art
Replies
Did they tell you at the paint store what "prepped properly" means? To me it means a clean, dry surface which gets an oil-based primer and 2 latex topcoats. Could they tell whether or not a primer was used? If not, that's probably the cause of the current problem.
I don't know how to go about stripping T-111 back to bare wood. It seems like a daunting task. I would consider a heavy duty power washing (since T-111 won't show any minor damage caused by the power washer). Then, let it dry thoroughly before primer and re-painting.
I've heard good things about XIM Peel Bond primer, but I've never used it.
some answers
The guys at the paint store define 'prepped' like you do
their best guess was that Kilz was used as the primer
Art
You may want to investigate elastomeric paint. It can handle the problems that t-111 (or any radial cut plywood) has with holding paint.
You might also want to check into covering the t-111 with steel.
Can they tell you....
What is the correct primer that you should be using? Can they point to examples that were correctly painted and have lasted. That is, do they really know what they are talking about or merely generating smoke?
Why is it called smoke when it sure smells like something far more organic?
XIM Peel Bond primer might help adhesion.
I've seen a variety of products called 'T-111." Some were smooth, some were rough. Some were bare, some came already primed.
My first thought would be to errect some tarps, extending them from the shed, to protect the siding from sunlight. Then 'paint' the walls with a generous coat of the (admittedly expensive) citrus-type paint stripper. Cover with plastic, and let it sit for a day. Then powerwash it all off.
Then LET IT DRY for several days - longer or shorter depending on your location and weather.
Assuming that method works, you'll have an extremely rough surface. I suggest LIGHTLY sanding it, so as to remove the worst of the roughness. More roughness = more primer. A random-orbit sander - even a 're-tasked' auto polisher - should work the best.
If the stripper and powerwash don't quite cut it, you'll have to do some sandblasting.
Trust your paint shop; they're sure to have a decent oil-based primer.. Expect it to cost $35/gal, and for each gallon to MAYBE cover three 4x8 sheets. The T-111 will soak it up like a sponge. Go back and re-prime any spots that seem especially 'thirsty.'
With a solid primer coat, you can expect the finishing paint to cover a lot more space - perhaps as much as six 4x8 sheets / gal. If your final coat is a light color, one coat may be enough.
I did this when I built my shed. While the final construction was fairly amateur in the details, the paint job looks as good today as it did five years ago.
what is happening is that the plywood siding is delaminating, T1-11 plywood has a lot of voids in it, each void is a potential source of moisture penatration, unless it is painted very carfully and kept painted water will work its way into the voids and cause the plywood to delaminate
your discription of the peeling paint lifiting some of the siding is actually a discription of the product delaminating, as are the cracks you mentioned
i would carefully evaluate the condition of the siding and consider removal or going over it with some other product.
You're pulling my leg, Right?
t 1-11 always delaminates, and lots of well done paint jobs show some peeling after ten years.
T 1-11 is considered a temporary siding -= something to get by until you can afford to put the real thing over it.
Hmmm, one of these days I really ought to replace that temporary siding that I used on my shed 20 years ago.
Actually, I did have to replace the bottom 2' section because of moisture damage. The damage was either caused by splash-back as water dripped off the small overhang or (more likely) simply ground proximity.
I've been pretty good about keeping the rest of it well-protected with paint and by all appearances, it's good for another 20 years.
don't pull my leg!
You're scaring me!
T-111 always delaminates? Temporary?
Yow! I never considered T-111 as temporary when I built the barn.
If that's the case, then I'll put the best paint on it and start saving my money to re-side 5-10 years down the road
Art
What'll happen for sure is that any paint applied to improperly primed wood will peel in short order. Doesn't involve delamination -- will happen to solid wood.