Does anybody have any experience with stucco products from Sider-Oxydro in Georgia?
I’m thinking about using their acrylic cement stucco products as a surface on an ICF building. The price is right compared to EIFS. What’s the product like?
Would I curse the day I ever let their name cross my chequebook?
Ron
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"Live Free,
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thanks
Might be worth a search for 'acrylic cement stucco'. It showed 18 posts."Live Free, not Die"
It rarely occurs to me to use the search function here. I will.
Ron
why not just use real portland, lime & sand on the nylon mesh... maybe a bonding agent... but the real stuff is cheap... it works... and won't seal in the moisture like a plastic bag...
pony
yes but acrylic seals out exterior moisture too. No water stains on new work. Good housewrap or a sttrapped-out wall deals with any internal moisture issues.Lignum est bonum.
yes but acrylic seals out exterior moisture too. No water stains on new work. Good housewrap or a sttrapped-out wall deals with any internal moisture issues.
all the stucco problems of the last 15 years... were not "stucco" they were related to the acrylic/latex fake stucco products... ie: thick rubberized paint with sand that formed a finish like warp'n your building in a plastic bag... yes there were flashing problems but there always are... the difference is with a surface that breathes moisture dries ... 40 years ago there were almost zero mold problems... the more we seal up structures the more mold... we have 50yo schools here that never had a mold problem until they were upgraded with rubber roofs with no vents and the exteriors "weatherproofed"....
amazing how 90% of FL houses are real portland stucco and i'm pretty sure they have reason to work with products that "seal out exterior moisture"
good luck with your mold
pony
"amazing how 90% of FL houses are real portland stucco and i'm pretty sure they have reason to work with products that "seal out exterior moisture""Interesting side note. Read that there was a lot of problems during the huricanes with water that was driven through concrete block walls house built in the last few years.They are just starting to look at it, but while the difference in paints might be one reason they are also speculating that older homes had many, many coats of paint that that affective sealed the blocks agaisnt the driven water.
Vancouver had huge 'leaky condo syndrome' problems a couple years ago to the tune of billions of dollars and hundreds of condos affected. Main problems identified were improperly flashed joints and a very wet climate. Nowadays most stucco is applied over PT 1x4 strapping applied vertically to sheathing @ 16" o/c. The paper and wire bridge over the spaces between the 1x4s which becomes a drainage space should water get behind the stucco. Also allows moisture from within the building to escape and drain off harmlessly.
As I understand it mould forms where humidity is high and air circulation is poor. If a building is carefully vented mould will not be an issue.Lignum est bonum.
that wasn't "stucco" that was glued on foamboard covered with nylon mesh & a portland mix then top coated with what is basicly very thick latex paint with sand mixed in... "eifs" or something like that... it doesn't breath traps moisture in the walls... much like a plastic bag.... doesn't matter how the moisture got there... it's not get'n out....everything needs to breath...
stucco... real stucco has been used for over a hundred years and about the only problem you get is a few cracks and not many of those if done properly... real stucco is applied to a metal/wire or even a nylon lath thats attached to the wall usually on top of felt paper then a basecoat of "stucco" sand & portland sometimes a little lime sometimes this is refered to as the "scratch coat" as the sufface is left "scratched" so as the next coat will bond... the next coat can be your finish coat... a little richer mix of portland and sand usually finer sand and again some people add lime lest your work it longer and makes it have a more cake frosting feel when you work it... depending on what finish you want this can be your finish coat... or you can do a third even richer coat with color added...
real stucco is no more than a concrete coating/surface not unlike a swimming pool... it will shed water, be fireproof, and give years of service... with color added it should be about maint free... it will be like all concrete porous how porous depends alot on how you finish it and how many coats you applied... but it will breath.... haven't heard of a lawsuit against the portland industry....
pony
You describe the basic systems fine, but nonetheless the main problem in Vancouver as I understood it was not so much with the systems themselves but with water getting between the stucco and the sheathing. The entry points were poor transitions from horiz to vert or vice versa - lack of flashings or improperly flashed - and penetrations of the walls for windows, pipework, etc. The inquiry showed that both municipal and national building code failed to fully allow for the extremely wet conditions in the region. To give you an example, some parts of Vancouver got 24 inches of rain in 48 hours last month.
Acrylic stucco is often applied directly onto regular scratch coat. Typically the scratch is done in two applications to minimize cracking, then allowed to cure for 2-4 weeks before finish coat. If applied to styrofoam, a cement-glue mixture similar to thinset is used and gives a bond stronger than the materials themselves.
If applied correctly and designed so that water cannot enter behind it, acrylic stucco is an excellent product. Lack of breathability is not an issue since the building's vapour barrier prevents entry of moisture from that direction. As I mentioned in my previous post, designers are now specifying strapping on the walls to create drainage channels for any rainwater that might get in behind.
Wally
ps- how's the lofts project coming along? Did you end up doing the slab pours yourself?Lignum est bonum.
Strapping behind is fine they are just addressing that no matter what you do moisture will get in there... and they are allowing/calling for an air cirulation path... I've used a ton of it and like it... but i use it on commerical storefronts/ fasades i love care'n up the foam with my hot knife... i also use a hopper gun and spray the produst to give the look of stone... as long as it's in an area that won't have wear or contact with much... they even started grove'n the back of the foam but don't thing that worked any better....
thanks for ask'n about the lofts... hang'n balconys and set'n shower bases today... i've poured/finished 10,000 sf of the concrete still have about that to go... prep'n for it now... set'n the balconys is part of that..
but it is 70 here with sun...
pony
as long as it's in an area that won't have wear or contact with much
Reminds me of about 15 yrs ago when I was working on a stucco crew, something to keep me busy between ski seasons. We had to go back to a 60-unit condo complex we had completed only 2 months previous. The whole place was 2" styrofoam with acrylic over top, and we had to remove the foam on each balcony and replace it with wire, full scratch coat and acrylic finish. Seems people were firing up their BBQs a bit too close to the walls and the heat was melting the foam in behind the acrylic... Not sure who ended up paying for that little faux pas but it weren't the stucco sub; the specs and drawings clearly showed foam over the entire building.
70 degrees and sunny in February - where are you located? Sounds good now, but I guess not so good come July.
WallyLignum est bonum.
Thanks ponytl for posting that. Out here in Calif. we get people always wanting to paint stucco, I generally try to talk them out of it when I can. A good color coat will last 15 years or more, and if you want a new color its best to sandblast and re-color coat. If you paint stucco, it loses its porosity, and plus, it doesn't look as nice. I once had to cut a door in a garage wall with that thin-coat over foam stuff. I went to mark my line (I was going to cut the stucco with my masonry blade), so I scribed it with a nail. To my surprise, my scribe line cut right through it, just scratching with a 16d nail. The customer got mad when she saw how easy it was, thought I charged her too much! That is flimsy stuff.