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Chris, I can’t tell you _why_ it’s not used (I’d have to kill…), but I can tell you that it IS used in wet/non-freezing climates…The vast majority of all of the buildings in South Florida (where the humidity generally remains in the 85%-90% range when it’s not raining!) are finished in stucco. Real stucco, that is…the synthetics aren’t nearly as popular, since there are so many good mechanics there who are accustomed to working with the “good stuff”!
In fact, one of the shifts that occurred a number of years ago in that area was the result of the immigrant influx from Cuba. The plasters who came into the Miami area from Cuba had been doing all sorts of craftsman-type work down there, such as simulating mouldings, false brick (no, really!…and some of it is impossible to tell from ten feet away!), and other textures.
Note, however, that this finish is invariably applied directly to the face of concrete block in a 3-coat process. Your results may vary.
Replies
*), but I can tell you that it IS used in wet/non-freezing climates...The vast majority of all of the buildings in South Florida (where the humidity generally remains in the 85%-90% range when it's not raining!) are finished in stucco. Real stucco, that is...the synthetics aren't nearly as popular, since there are so many good mechanics there who are accustomed to working with the "good stuff"!
Chris, I can't tell you _why_ it's not used (I'd have to kill...
In fact, one of the shifts that occurred a number of years ago in that area was the result of the immigrant influx from Cuba. The plasters who came into the Miami area from Cuba had been doing all sorts of craftsman-type work down there, such as simulating mouldings, false brick (no, really!...and some of it is impossible to tell from ten feet away!), and other textures.
Note, however, that this finish is invariably applied directly to the face of concrete block in a 3-coat process. Your results may vary.
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This is a good question.
I'm wondering, though, if high humidity is the same as wet
climate, however many showers south Florida gets.
What about Oregon/Washington coast, where wet climate means
something? I always assumed--without really knowing--that
stucco in such areas would grow moss/mold/fungus....
*Jim,Interesting point. Would moss, mold, and fungus be any worse on Portland cement based stucco than the wood that is so common in that area? Would a smooth texture be better than a courser texture?
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I bought a house 5 years ago in Cary NC . The house has cynthatic stucco,about a year ago i noticed few areas around windows with moisture problems.After talking to few builders about the problem,they advise me of replacing the whole exterior of the house with brick.I don't have the money to do that.i would like to go around the windows my self and caulk all the areas that could allow moisture to get in.What is the recommended kind of caulking that would be good to use?i have a big house that i bought when i had money..now i am not doing so welland all the builders that see the house think i am a millionaire and want to charge me 6figures to fix it...please help
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Stucco is a perfectly acceptable material in non freezing wet climates. Having worked in both So. Cal. and the Pac. NW I am greatly aware of regional differences. Wood siding is not an ideal material in So. Cal. and climates with intense sunshine. Maintainance is extremely high. As a consequence you see a very high percentage of stucco houses, and a large stucco trade. In the Pacific NW wood is a good material so there is not a large demand for stucco and so only a very small trade.
When local vernaculars develop it gives a certain look to houses that people are reluctant to deviate from, which involves a certain mythology.
Mould and mildew are no more of a problem with stucco than wood. As a matter of fact, stucco will take cleaning with bleach and pressure washing better than wood.
*Ah-Ha! Thanks, Mike. Makes perfect sense the way you put it.We're going to be building on the coast of Oregon in a few years, and I've about decided that (in general) ICF walls and SIP roof is the way to go; stucco over ICF, of course, makes the most sense
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HAVE WORKED IN PORTLAND OREGON AS A REMODELER FOR 25 YEARS AND HAVE THIS OBSERVATION ABOUT STUCCO. WORKS GREAT, UNLESS THERE IS ANY CRACKING OR OPENING IN THE FINISH. HAVE WORKED ON A DOZEN HOUSES IN TEH 60 TO 80 YEAR RANGE. WHERE THE STRUCTURE IS SOUND AND HAS NOT SETTLED, NO PROBLEM, BUT IN INSTANCES WHERE THE HOUSE HAS SETTLED AND THERE IS CRACKING IN THE STUCCO MEMBRANE, I HAVE HAD TO REMOVE SIDING FROM THE ENTIRE WEATHER SIDE OF THE HOME, REPLACE ALL THE SHIPLAP SIDING THAT HAS ROTTED BEHIND THE STUCCO FOR DECADES, AND EVEN REPLACE ROTTED STUDS. ALL THAT WASHOLDING UP THE WALL IN ONE CASE WAS THE STUCCO ITSELF. SO BUILD A GOOD FOUNDATION, AND CHECK YEARLY FOR CRACKS, AND SEAL IF NECESSARY! THANKS FOR THE OBSERVATION.
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Is there a functional problem with stucco in non-freezing wet climates? I rarely see stucco used in areas like the Pacific Northwest. Is it a style preference or a problem?