I have Marvin casement windows in a cupola in my house in Connecticut. They were installed by the builder (since deceased) about 10 years ago. Unfortunately, for a variety of reasons (probably a combination of location, exposure to the elements, too heavy a paint coast on the jambs) they tend to stick and become devilishly difficult to open. I now have a situation where of 6 windows, I can open only 1. And on at least one of the stuck ones, the gears on the casement crank mechanism have become stripped as the result of trying to force open the window.
So a few questions: Anybody have any good ideas for how to open a stuck casement? Is it possible to remove the casement mechanism without opening the window first? Anyone have any experience with Marvin casement mechanisms — to the extent I have to replace the mechanism, am I better off buying a differnet brand?
BTW, when I finally get the windows operating again, I intend to line the edge of the casing where the sash opens with low-friction (slippery) tape (Lee Valley product no. 25U04.01 ). Anyone have any experience with that?
Thanks a lot.
Replies
Just like with paint-sick double hungs, you have to break the bond between the sash and jamb. Go around inside and out with a thin putty knife carefully separating them. Or if you're going to strip and re-paint, you don't have to be quite so careful. When you get them open, if they're not excessively tight, a good paste wax will keep them from sticking again. If they are excessively tight, you need to get the paint off them and start fresh. You may even want to plane them down a bit to make more room for future coats of paint.
If you re-paint, give them plenty of time to dry, at least a week, then a couple coats of paste wax.
Have a look at http://www.conservationtechnology.com for some excellent weather stripping. You can have windows that fit quite loosely and still stay weather tight using their stuff.
As for the crank mechanisms, I like to use an angle grinder on them if they're steel. For aluminum ones, go with a sawzall. ;-) Get rid of them. They're a totally silly idea, way over engineered. The simple traditional long hook and eye is the reliable long term solution to keeping the wind from slapping open casement sash around. For appearance, there's also some brass bar and thumb screw hardware that looks durable, and you can put the sash in any position with it.
Casements are my favorite windows. With a loose fit, RCT seals, paste wax, and long hook and eye hardware, they're the longest lasting, most trouble free, lowest maintenance, and most weathertight type of openable window.
-- J.S.
Thanks. I especially like the sawzall and angle grinder recommendations...Any suggestions on suppliers for the traditional casement hardware you mentioned?
If the Marvins are anything like my Pella's they would not be easy to retro fit.
Do they open from the outside edge (clasical casements) or so the pivot some place about 1/3 of the way out and the outside edge slides in top and bottom tracks and moves away from the outside edge as they open?
They open from the outside edge. There's a stop rail (for lack of a better word) across the bottom of the jamb; the casement sash closes up against that. The stop rail has a dado about 3" wide cut into it, and the gear-closing mechanism slides through that. I suspect I would have to take off that stop rail and maybe cut a new one in order to fit "traditional" adjusters, but that wouldn't be that hard.
I buy the eyes at any ordinary place like HD, two per sash. Then I make hooks out of rod stock using one eye for the hook.
-- J.S.
benasher, are these clad casements?
With no lube, the mechanism and slider at the bottom will freeze up. If you unlock and give it a push, can you crank it out? If so, spray white lithium grease on the slider and the crank spindle should make it work like new.
If the window is put in wapperjawed, the binding could be cladding to jamb.
Marvin has replacement hardware, weatherstrip etc, but you need to know the year of the window. They got to changing out some of the parts over the years. Look on the glass pane divider, there's usually a code which will tell them the year of manufacture.
The bottom wood operator cover will come straight up if you can cut the paint at the corners and the bottom. Putty knife and thin flat bar with some shim protection should lift it up and out.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
They are not clad wndows.
I suspect it is the effect of sun, moisture, etc. that has caused the sash to bind against the jamb. Unfortunately, you can't push the windows out with the crank mechanism. They are sufficiently stuck that trying to crank them only strips the gear.
Thanks for the advice on how to remove the wood operator cover.
Since you have all-wood windows and they are installed in a humid location ( A cupola suggests that all the hot air and moisture in the house is trying to vent itself out there ) the sash and jambs are swelling. Scraping, sanding, shaving and repainting with a good oil based paint should be the ticket once they are openned and the hardware fixed or replaced. somebodyhas to get outside on the roof to break the seal with a putty knife to start though.
After finishing, I favor using wax to prevent recurrance.
There is a product called Slippit for tablesaws and drawers that is not supposed to have any silicones to interfere with paint. I use it for stickky doors and drasers. Don't know how ity stands up to UV sunlight and weather.
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