Just saw and ad for this tool in the new tools of the trade. Thought I would post a line and get peoples thoughts on it.
http://www.studline.com/index.html
The Layout Line is Simple to Use
and a Tremendous Time Saver
| View Image | View Image | |
| Step 1: Attach High-grip Hook View Image View Image Step 2: Extend line, Tension and Snap! View Image View Image To create well defined stud placement locations View Image View Image The applied 1-1/2-inch marks are Square, Accurate, and … View Image View Image Precise View Image |
Replies
That looks very interesting. I have to think about whether I would trust that. I do use the BigFoot layout stick and have never had problems with layout, but a stingline . . . . In the FAQ section there is a question about the string stretching and supposedly it won't. That looks really interesting.
Seems like if it actually worked well - it would pay for itself in no time.
Wonder if Blue has one - or if he just eyeballs the layout
Ive eyeballed many a layout Shoeman. When you build a side wall to a closet, do you actually measure to layout a stud that lands in the center of the 24" wall?
When I table framed the 8 unit townhouse, I layed out the table. I didn't put a single stud layout on any of the hundred walls we framed!
Sometimes layouts are overrated.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I kinda figured there might be some truth to my statement. Know you don't like to take any extra steps.
With that in mind - do you have an opinion of this layout chalk line?
Seems to me it might be worth trying.
Shoeman, I think every tool that speeds up the process warrants a look.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Shoe,
Yer still gonna haf ta use a tape, hammer and nail on each layout except the first. Ya know, fer offsets fer sheathing, butt-to plates, 'n' stuff.
samt
Pardon my ignorance, but, what is table framing? Have heard the term before, but, not sure what it means. Thought you might have even had a thread on it, but, I can't seem to find it.
Shoeman, table framing is a term for preframing the walls on a set of work tables. I started experimenting it this spring when I came out of my semi retirement. I basically built the last wall that I knew I would be standing and set it up as a full scale table to build all the rest.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Thanks for the response - have found your table framing thread now - nice height to work at
"When I table framed the 8 unit townhouse, I layed out the table. I didn't put a single stud layout on any of the hundred walls we framed!"When you say "I layed out the table" are you saying that you layed out 16" centers on the table and then when you put your plates down you just slid you 2x4's on the 16" center marks or did you eye ball all you 16" center marks not taking out your tape once for a 16" center?Joe Carola
Joe, here's what I did.
I built the last wall first. It was exactly 32' long. After it was sheathed, I nailed a second temporary bottom plate on...flush with the top of the sheathing. Then, I nailed another layer of plates on the top and bottom and held them up about 3/4". These served as both stops and layout tools. I then layed out some bold 16" oc marks on the layout tools. When we framed any subsequent walls, the only layout marks were the windows or door openings. We just dropped the studs on the center marks and when we nailed, we simply lined up the ends and nailed the studs on the previously layed out center marks.
Originally, I intended to create a master layout stick which contained every length of wall needed, including the window centers etc. It quickly became obvious that I was creating too many marks and confusing the heck out of my feeble mind. I dont' like to think that hard!
We never squared anything either. We simply bumped the bottom plate tight to our raised extra plates and lined up the edges on the sides with the factory plywood edge. We'd then cut in the t brace (some we were able to flush nail) and nailed the wind brace in. If it receieved osb sheathing, we simply lined up our edges and layed and stapled the osb.
We had a few screwups, nothing that couldn't be quickly fixed once the walls were set. The screwups them selves would not be repeated simply because I learned a few valuable lessons.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Do any of you who sheath your wall before standing them build on concrete slabs?
I am just curious if it is just something that is done if the floor is wooden or not.
Here in Louisiana all the slabs are monolithic and most people stick frame.
Always willing to find a better way.
One draw back is the slabs have pipes in the way and that would make it almost imposible to sheath most walls.
I do like the concept.
Kyle, I don't work too much on slabs. Its rare here.
Pipes sticking through pose challenges, but I'm not sure why sheating them later makes the challenges any different. The biggest challenge would be getting the straight walls to conform to the wavy slab. If it were my house, I'd want the straight walls to stay straight and I'd shim the gaps with steel shims. In your locality, they might look down on you and think your an oddball.
How flat are your slabs?
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
The flatness of the slab all depends on how high or drunk the finisher.
I'm thinkin serious about incorporating a mixed method.
I have a house with all 12' walls coming up and I will have to box frame it, so that one will probably be a good place to start.
I don't like to stick frame walls over 10' because they are to top heavy.
I would definitly figure a way out to preframe all the 12 walls.
First, I'd lay the bottom plate out and cutout and drill as needed. I'd then lay the plate down and note how good or bad the pour was/is. Then, I'd make a decision about what comes next.
I've seen framers prebuild walls on pours that had a 2" difference in 20 feet using the same length stud. I wouldn't do that. I'd custom cut each stud, then square it up from the top down and sheath it before I raise it.
Getting it over the extended pipes would be the second challenge.
I'd whack all the pipe to no more than 3" above the concrete, then stand up the walls on top of two bolcks of wood. After temp bracing, in a manner that would allow a 3'' drop, I'd yank out the blocks and let the wall down. I'd do this in a controlled manner with levers.
It all sounds a lot harder than what is really is.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Also, I'm thinking about buying this layout line. I think a new tool is just what I need to relax me after the day that I've had. (the fire a friend thread)
Interesting idea, but I'd pass on it.
I'd have to follow that with a tape anyway to lay out windows, doors, plus a couple of other reasons I won't go into here.
Plus, I like the mental math involved with a tape.
But most importantly...I don't see any black diamonds on that thing.
I thought the specs said it can be set to chalk at 16, 24, and 488mm (that's 19.2 for the black-diamond-impaired.)
I can ski the black diamonds, but as to the ones on my FatMax, they're a mystery.
That's what I get for not digging into the details. That's interesting tin that it's adjustable.
Mongo, don't think it is adjustable. They sell different lines for the different layouts - one does 16 a different one for 24 and custom if you you like - at say 19.2
Now I'm sure I'm not buying one. I thought it had a shift lever.
Guess I'm stuck in the dark ages. Wonder how they got the layouts right on those cathedrals and coliseums?
Just thought that I'd let you know.
Bought it, used it, loved it.
Also, the lumber salesman showed it to his regional manager and they set up a meeting this past monday with studline to see about carrying it in their stores. Don't know how it turned out.
I'm also have several framer friends that want me to order on for them.
The only con is when you layout a short wall about 6' the line doesn't stretch enough and the layout will be less than 1/8" off.
On 6' plus walls it is dead on.
Hey Kyle, thanks for the feedback.
I have no connection to the manufacturer, just came accross it, thought it looked interesting and posted here to see what others thought.
Now that you have tested it, I suppose I will have to get one too.
Thanks again for the feedback,
Shoe
I've been using it for the last two weeks and love it. I can't believe how well it works. I figured I would try it and if it worked once it wouldn't be a total waste. It's pretty slick.
Maybe someday I'll think of something to market, not likely :-)