Suggestions – patching tile up in shower
I’m at my in laws right now, and I thought I’d do them a favor by replacing the grout in the tiles of the guest shower. I was chipping the grout out with a tiny screwdriver in the areas that were already cracked, when a tile came out. I was able to easily pull a total of 6 tiles out. Water had soaked the drywall they were bonded to and the paper came away from the gypsom. The drywall also had a vertiac crack, which helped the seperation process.
The tile is 30 years old, original to the house. They don’t know what, or when, they want to do something with that shower. They don’t want a permanent fix, only a patch – put those 6 tiles (all in a vertical line) back AND keep the problem from getting worse by fixing the grout still with cracks.
This shower gets used 2 weeks out of the year… basicly when we visit.
I was going to remove enogh tile and drywall so I could get to the wall studs behind, plant some blocking, place a cement board or similar in the hole and attach it to the blocking, then reattach the tile to the cement board. Caulk grout it, then us a silicone on the remaining cracks.
They will be looking at a number of future options, but I was hoping there was something easier for a quick and dirty job that might be sugested.
I’m not looking for the right way to do it, just the way that will keep the tile on the wall for two weeks!
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Replies
Rather than removing the drywall behind the tiles, and provided it's reasonably sound, consider this: Remove some of the drywall and use a setting-type joint compound to bring it back to the right thickness. The setting-type joint compounds are much more water resistant than the regular compound, but they are certainly not water-proof.
A shellac-based or oil-based primer on the compound before re-securing the tile will increase it's water resistance. Also, be sure to use a sealer on the new grout.
Having said that, I think your original idea will provide a much more long-term solution. Of course, there's a price to pay (in this case, time).
-Don
Thanks guys, that was exactly what I was looking for - quick and simple and doesn't turn it into a bigger project!
You will never hear me say that again! :)Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Paul, I frequently do this type of repairs. All situations are slightly different. For a quick fix like described, frequently use the the brown bag setting wall compound, plaster of paris or patching plaster. The plaster materials dry very fast, make a hard surface and are less subject to water melt. Next, I prefer to use dry mix thinset for a better bonding grip. Also will absorb any moisture left in the plaster patch, a premix thinset may pull away. Finish with standard non-sanded grout for small grout lines. The cement and plaster based all cure by internal heat and make a nice interlocking bond. Use masking tape to secure the tiles while the thinset drys.
Clean all the old grout and mortar off the tiles before you start. Painter tool works well. I do not recommend a caulk repair. Never seen one last. Surface must be prefectly clean to work and it is a pain to clean off when you finally do a permanent repair.
Paul, do what Don said but instead of grout use bathroom caulk for the grout line.
It's flexible enough that even if the substrate is not that stable you have a water tight joint for a little while.
I did something similar to a rental which involved more tiles than you described and it has been holding up for three years now. The way it goes it just may become a permanent fix. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
If they don't want to fix it right by removing all the tiles, and allthe sheetrock, and placing cement board and retiling, you have already done too much.
Get a tube of silicone to glue each tile back where it was, and use silicone to grout, close your eyes and pretend it looks fine.
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