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Supporting floor joists

rez | Posted in Construction Techniques on December 30, 2003 11:53am

95 year old storey and a half house with 2×6 joist running 16 inch on center for 16 ft across the room. Central chimney in this room of  15×24 foot.

At that time back a few years when repairing the floor/ceiling, being concerned of headroom and choking over what needed to be done to the whole building, I just added a slew of 2×6 sisters to the joists and put in two rows of bridging to lessen the intensity of the upstairs floor bounce and said I’ll deal with it later.

Now I come to later.

Game plan is to build some beams to run  from posts at ends of room to posts next to chimney covering the 12 foot length on each side.

The question is to get the desired effect of solidity upstairs with a minimal height of the beam.

Problem child is the blades of the circulating fans found on each side of the room, where as much distance as possible between the fan blades rotation path and the support beam is desired. 

The only available location for the posts to support the beam necessitate the positioning of the beam above the fan blades.

Would a beam of say three 2x6s do it or would I have to go with 2x8s? Are there other options?    Thanks.

 

 

 

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Replies

  1. woodroe | Dec 31, 2003 02:45am | #1

    To answer your question the information needed is the span of the beam and the floor area it supports. The beam will be supporting half the length of the floor joists on either side of the beam. This dimension and the length of the beam between supports will determine the size of your beam. The 2x6 beam you are thinking about will probably be inadequate to offer the support you are looking for.

    Your best option would probably be a steel I-beam.

    Depending on your span a flitch beam might be an alternative. A flitch beam is a steel plate sandwiched between 2x members with through bolts holding the assembly together. In your case you could possibly use two plates and three 2x6. The heavier (thicker) the steel the more strength it has. Steel plates of 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" are most common with 3/8" or 1/2" holes drilled every foot and alternating top and bottom in the steel.

    1. slykarma | Dec 31, 2003 05:02am | #3

      Flitch beam is a good idea. I'm not sure from the post whether this is exposed or not. Since headroom/clearance is a concern, use hangers and make it a flush flitch(!). It will mean building temporary support walls either side of each beam but would result in zero loss of clearance.

      Lignum est bonum.

      1. woodroe | Dec 31, 2003 08:20am | #4

        Sly, great idea, but I think I would make the top of the beam flush and let the bottom hang down. This would give more depth to the beam and probably allow for the use of LVL's .

        1. slykarma | Dec 31, 2003 04:54pm | #6

          Don't know this terminology - what are LVLs?

          Lignum est bonum.

          1. UncleDunc | Dec 31, 2003 05:53pm | #7

            Laminated veneer lumber. Looks like plywood, except all the plies run in the same direction. Microlam is a common brand name.

          2. User avater
            BossHog | Dec 31, 2003 05:55pm | #8

            Don't know this terminology - what are LVLs?

            LVL stands for "Laminated Veneered Lumber". Sometimes it's referred to as "Microlams", which is a popular brand name of an LVL manufacturer.Money can't buy happiness. But it sure makes misery easier to live with.

          3. slykarma | Jan 01, 2004 02:59am | #9

            OK, gotcha. Yeah we just call it microlam. I also still use a Hoover and wipe my nose with Kleenex, even though I don't buy those actual brands. I guess the marketing guys refer to me as a dream target.

            Wally

            Lignum est bonum.

          4. Piffin | Jan 01, 2004 06:44am | #10

            You can cut that microlam with a Skillsaw then.

            Excellence is its own reward!

          5. rez | Jan 01, 2004 07:34am | #11

            And ink the line with a Magic Marker.

             

             

            Edited 12/31/2003 11:34:33 PM ET by rez

          6. slykarma | Jan 01, 2004 07:38am | #12

            I might decide to cut with a Sawzall....Lignum est bonum.

  2. fdampier5 | Dec 31, 2003 03:11am | #2

    please consider not laminating a beam out of 2x's !  you don't gain all that much strength and with less than a perfect nail/glue schedule you could wind up with what amounts to three pieces of wood.  (plus in my opinion it would be butt ugly)

        Instead us a laminated beam or (my choice) have a local sawmill cut you a beam of proper width and thickness.  you can trade depth for thickness to gain strength.  For example if headroom is really important I'd consider a 6x6 out of white oak.  In addition to being decorative it would be cheap.  A 6x6x12' out of white oak from my sawmill will cost you $29.00

      If you want I can get the numbers for you as to the capicity of a beam that size..  

  3. andybuildz | Dec 31, 2003 04:20pm | #5

    IMO LVL's are the best idea and simplest

    My life is my practice!

    http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

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