We’re removing 16′ of exterior wall for a kitchen remodel. The wall supports 2nd floor and roof. Installing W1012 steel on adjustable posts bearing directly on the foundation to replace the wall. The first floor (kitchen floor) joists are 14″ top chord bearing open web trusses. We are going to put in a temp wall (about 1′ to 2′ into the room from the wall that will be removed) to support the 2nd floor while we remove the exterior wall and install the steel.
My question is: should we also put in a temp wall in the basement directly under the first floor temp wall to support that additional load on the first floor joists?
Replies
If you go back a couple of feet on the floor truss, there should be a joint there. It's best to support the foor truss at a joint instead of inbetween them somewhere. I can post a pic if that doesn't make sense.
The wall in the basement can't hurt. Whether it's needed or not depends on how much weight you're supporting, and what the floor system below is like.
If there are any doubts at all, I'd put it in. Cheap insurance.
I believe a little incompatibility is the spice of life, particularly if he has income and she is pattable. [Ogden Nash]
Yah, as i was typing the post I realized the answer to my questions was kind of obvious...$40 in 2x4s is cheap insurance.
I included a rough drawing of the truss...are the 2 verticle members considered the joint?
Thanks!
jim
The joint I meant has a red arrow pointing at it.There are two kinds of cruises - pleasure and with children. [George Burns]
Definitely shore all the way down. Dig some flat areas under the house, lay some of your header stock down there on plastic, and jack from that. Once you're done with the basic framing of the new wall, reclaim your headers from the crawl space and frame the windows. Your roof and 2nd floor will definitely get lower if you don't shore to dirt.
These guys answered your question well, but what jumped out at me is a floor load and roof load set on a w 1012 spanning 16 feet? The steel in that beam is about as thick as the walls of a beer can, I hope that you had it engineered.
The engineer recommended the W1012 over an LVL. It also passed plan review at the county (they kicked back the plans for an undersized lvl in the garage)
jim