I’ve been seeing more and more of these wall-mounted (suspended) bathroom vanities. I’d like to build one for my master bath. Is there any special advice for building these? I’m assuming I would build and hang just like an upper kitchen cabinet, but the 24″ depth on a vanity vs. the 12″ depth on a kitchen cabinet has me concerned. Any special building steps I need to take to ensure the cabinet can handle the stress from the load so far from the wall?
Thanks for any help.
Replies
It would seem to me that if you used a 3/4 plywood Full Back that the floating cabinet would be supported just fine. Of course it would help to use good/heavy screws to mount the cabinet.
ford
my concern would be over time sagging. build it solid with a 5/8 solid back well fastened to the gables and cabinet floor, that way it also can be screwed to the wall top and bottom.if posible also fasten to a side wall of course
i would build out of plywood if posible, laminated with postform grade laminate or veneer
are there doors or drawers or just a six inch high cabinet to support a sink?
a taller cabinet would be stronger of course
What about possibly finding a way to put a diagonal brace of some sort inside the cabinet running from the top of the back side to bottom of the front.
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if you make the cabinet from sheetgood and solidly fasten together(biscuits are best) then diagonal bracing isnt necessary
I was actually thinking an internal brace from top front to bottom back. Reason being, inevitably somone's going to lean against the front edge, in addition to the sagging of time, and the brace would provide a path to transfer that load to the support. I realize that gates usually have a turnbuckle/brace from the bottom away from the support/hinge to the top near the hinges. But those are typically in tension, I was thinking something to take a compression load?If everything seems to be going well, you've obviously overlooked something.
Steve is right. There is no need for the typical diagonal bracing as used on a fence gate. The plywood will carry that without any problem.
The weak point it the attachment of the back to the sides at the upper part of the back.
Something like a 2x2 glue block running up the back corrners.
Add a nailer across the back. Then run a a 1x3 along the top edge of the sides. And the end is attached to the nailer.
Thank you all for your reponses. Great tips! I was planning a cabinet to take the place of my current vanity, which is 60" long. One end will be attached to a perpendicular wall. (I mean, the vanity starts in a corner!)
The box would be about 20" tall and definitely made out of hardwood veneer plywood. I will use a heftier-than-usual nailer and heavy material as a back. The cabinet was going to be frameless, but I'm considering using a face frame design. The face frame, if I glue it and nail it sufficiently, would provide a little additional support.
Yes, there will be doors and drawers. In fact, to keep really clean lines, the drawers will actually disappear behind doors when not in use.
Thanks again for all your help!
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