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I’m building an 8’x8′ swim raft for the kids using sealed 30 gallon plastic barrels for flotation. I would like some ideas how to fasten the barrels to the platform. The deck will be framed with 2″x6″ and the decking 3/4 plywood – all treated. I’ve considered metal banding that goes around the barrels and fastens to the frame but am concerned with rust. Galvanized cables may be another option but think that if they loosen the wave action on the lake may wear the cables through the barrels. Maybe 1″ or 2″ flat nylon tie down straps with a ratchet? Any ideas?
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My neighbor used some mobile home tie down stapping. If I remember correctly that is galvanized. This was for a boat dock not a swim platform.
Another neighbor swim raft with an old steel tank donw the CENTER. It makes it into a "rocking platform." The kids love it. If you get if off balance it throws everyone off. They like to play "capture the platform".
*I built an 8 X 8 raft the same way. I placed the "joists" at the right distance apart so they capture the barrels snugly. Then I just held them in place with nylon rope. Since all the weight is downward, the barrels don't move much until you lift the raft up to remove it from the water----no problem. And the ropes are easy to tighten when necessary.
*I've made a few of these; we use climbing webbing (the stuff you use to make slings and harnesses) and nylon hardware sold as replacements for back-packs. The key here is that the loads aren't very high; the reason for the HD webbing is more because it weathers well. Any sporting goods store that carries climbing gear should be able to fix you up.
*I would not use treated lumber for this. This is a surface that your kids will have prolonged and wet skin contact with. I know they test this from every angle, but they are your kids!I know cedar is pricey for this application, have you looked at plastic decking?
*What kind of raft did Elian Gonzales use to float from Cuba? His mother didn't survive, but he did and so if this is for kids, maybe that's a good enough design.I like the 1" flat nylon webbing with locking buckles for being able to get it really snug. But how long will that metal last? I use them a lot on my car roof and none have shown any corrosion after many dozens of days outside. But as others have pointed out, you don't need much strength and nylon rope through holes in the joists would be plenty. It would have to be replaced evey few years due to UV exposure and biological action. Poly rope lasts longer outside although it a pain to tie knots with. If the kids want to float around in the water, why don't they just chainsaw off part of an iceflow like the rest of us? -David
*Go to your local fire department an ask where they keep their spent hose.Normally they toss it.It works great for straps and if you loop it around the perimeter of your raft you won't ding up that $25,000. ski boat.
*Not fond of cedar for this application - soft and throws splinters. In my youth we'd use monkeywood or cypress for small platforms that were going to have a lot of barefoot contact. Probably too expensive now.
*Bill, I'm interested in that center mount platform. It sounds like just the ticket. Is there any chance you can post a pic, or elaborate a little. In my mind, I don't see how the thing stays upright.blue
*I guess I was looking at it similar to a deck off of a house. I wanted the lasting ability treated offers without the cost of something like teak. Plus I planned to cover it with a marine carpet. As long as the kids don't go beaver on me and start chewing it I thought I should be OK. Now I just need one of those plastic owls to keep the birds from whitewashing the thing! Thanks for the input.
*Dave,Don't worry about the treated wood unless, like you said, the kids get hungry and start to eat it. There are folks around here who like to worry about nothing. Even if the wood stayed bare and you flopped around naked on it for 8 hours a day every day, you would most likely not register any presence of arsenic in the body. How many of these anti-chemical geniuses know that small amounts of arsenic have been used as MEDICINE for centuries? How do these geniuses explain average lifespans growing at astounding rates even as various chemicals multiply in our lives? Especially in outdoor applications, this is NOTHING to worry about. Cover it with paint, and you have less than nothing to worry about. Cover it with outdoor carpet and you have less than less than nothing to worry about.Encase it in titanium and bury it a mile under the earth's crust and you will still have folks here on this board warning you about it.Have fun!-Randy
*Randy posted some of my thoughts exactly...so reread his.near the stream,aj
*BlueI went out and looked at the "flipping" swim platform today. It is made a little different that I thought.The top is 10'x6'. It consists of 2x6's -6' long. Except the first and last are 2x4's spaced 2" from the 2x6" to form a hand grip.The floor boards are screwd to 4 3x3" - 10'. This keeps is low to the water.The floation is 2 12'x60" steel tanks. They are mounted between the outside 3x3's and centered along the 10' lenght.Thus it rides low to the water. And there is 2 1/2' overhang of the platform on each end.It float flat, but with the overhand it is not real stable.Bill(Now they have to get the spillway repairs finished so that we have water again)
*Thanks Bill. Ours was here when we moved here. It is built with four plastic barrels and steel strapped (i think galvanized-maybe stainless). I was told that they had to add water to stabilize the unit (it bobbed too much). I might try emptying them to see if I can get more action, but I just might push all the barrels to the middle. I like the idea of sending the kids flying off that thing. blue
*We used to play on one that had the barrels captured in fishnet.
*Years ago friends had one about 8 X 8 with a tower about 6' high on one edge. Great for jumping off of!
*Dave, I have done this just as jevers said above and it works. A refinement is to orient the barrel plug holes down and leave the plug out. A few inches of water in each barrel will stabilize the thing.Ron
*A quick word before you do this (leave the bungs open): 1) that barrel had something in it (petroleum product, chemical, paint, acid, PCB's - who knows !) and that's real had to clean through a 5/8" hole. 2) if the drum was clean, you'll need to coast the inside to protect it from the water. Some use thinned epoxy paint and slosh it around to get a coating.
*I like the idea of stabilizing the barrels with water. Each barrel is new so not worried about existing contaminants but would hate to deal with the stagnant water at the end of each year - I'd drain them before winter. Any additives other than chlorine that could keep the water from dunking up? Lot's of good advice - thanks to all.
*I'm with Phill, PCB's make great ballast.
*the rafts they make here for the private clubs use styro billetsbut they aren't much bigger that teh barrels you're talking..make the frame ... drop some stud walls with a bottom plate to capture the sides of the barrels.. then bolt a 2x6 across the bottom to capture the bottoms.. the 2x6 also serve as skids for launching..it's all PT.. and galvanized hdw..... and the outdoor carpet sounds good for splinter control...
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I'm building an 8'x8' swim raft for the kids using sealed 30 gallon plastic barrels for flotation. I would like some ideas how to fasten the barrels to the platform. The deck will be framed with 2"x6" and the decking 3/4 plywood - all treated. I've considered metal banding that goes around the barrels and fastens to the frame but am concerned with rust. Galvanized cables may be another option but think that if they loosen the wave action on the lake may wear the cables through the barrels. Maybe 1" or 2" flat nylon tie down straps with a ratchet? Any ideas?