Hey there. I wrote this down once but no one seemed to get it to clearly, so here it is again. I am installing 5/8 t&g ceiling pine which on the surface seems simple. However, the last time I installed it the pine was so badly warped that I had to pry each piece into position, often breaking the ventilation barrier. This meant a mess of taping and a much increased chance of condensation from the roof. If anyone knows of an easier way to apply the boards that doesn’t require prying let me know, very much appreciated.
Thanks everyone
Replies
How about nailing a 1x3 to your ceiling joists after you put up your vapor barrier. Then, if you use a chisel to pry, as I usually do, all the "damage" is done to the 1x3 without compromising your vapor barrier.
Steve
Very good idea, thanks very much. The simplest cures are the ones I overlook most often.
Thanks again
Hiya-
If I understand you correctly, the T&G is being installed directly to the framing. This is a serious breach of fire code, and you would normally be required to put up 5/8"fire rock and then your T&G on top of that- unless of course you are planning on some kind of fire resistant treatment to the pine.
Barring any concern with fire (!!!!!!!!!!!) strapping or furring would be the way to go as the other poster suggested.
Ken Hill
Edited 3/25/2003 12:41:20 PM ET by Ken Hill
Not to sound naive, but I was unaware of that code. I have applied it directly to the ceiling of a log home I was working on for a contractor, and no mention was ever made of a code violation. So I guess my question is this, is this code a Canadian or American code. Thanks
Hi again-
Yes, it's code as far as I know ( I'm in Wash. State). Someone please correct me if I'm mis-informed.
Even if there are no worries about code violations, if it were me, I would have the drywall there anyway, just to give me some extra peace of mind. Imagine that pine catching fire and spreading into the roof system.
I'm hoping more will chime in here. That way your info will be much more rounded.
Ken Hill
Ken, 5/8" drywall first is not a requirement in my area. We are currently operating under the UBC code. We're supposed to be changing to the International code, but our state legislature has been dragging it's feet.
What code? Up here in the Adirondacks, where the "great camp" style prevails, they are building 10,000 sf weekend homes for the 212 crowd, and often using only a dozen sheets of drywall throughout. The rest is t&g, shiplap, board&batten, virtually any kind of wood or twig or bark you can name, and it is all going directly onto the framing.
Kerosene lamps and appliances would go well with all that wood, Adirondack style.
Ken Hill
I have the lumberyard deliver 30% more than I estimate and send back the really warped stuff.
Ken, I've done some checking, and the IRC requires drywall in two places: on the underside of stairs, and the common wall/ceiling between house and garage. That's it, you can build your house to code with no more drywall than this. States or local govts. may have the power to adopt ammendments to the code, or you may be covered under a different code, so your situation may be different, but the UBC and IRC only require it in these two areas. The newer IRC has dropped the requirement for 5/8" fire-code rock in these areas and accepts 1/2" rock.
I'm not so sure about the drywall requirement but it's a good idea, not only as a fire barrier, but it makes for a "tighter" ceiling in terms of dust, emissions (for want of a better term) from attic critters, etc.
T & G ceilings, or other plank or twig or whatever treatment can be attractive, but I really saw the benefit of the drywall base a few years ago in a couple of nearly identical single story vacation homes. Both had Port-Orford Cedar t & g ceilings, one applied directly to the ceiling joists, the other applied to drywall. Both structures, because of infrequent use and other reasons, had pack rats in the attic. The first structure was always dusty and foul-smelling, with 'P' stains in the wood; the cabin with the drywall stayed pretty squared away.
cut some wedges, secure one to framing use other to drive board into tongue. Sometimes driving chisel and preying just ain;t enough. Works for me