I need to build a few picnic tables (6′) for the local Little League fields. They will be out in the elements year round (NY) so I want to construct them as durable as possible.
I would like some input on what type of wood would be a good idea to use and a finish for the wood that would be acceptable being that the kids etc… will be eating off of them.
Also if anyone has a good design or can reference one for me of a “one piece” picnic table I would really appreciate it. (what I mean by one piece is the benches and table are connected so that it is picked up and moved as “one piece”).
Much appreciate any input.
Mick
Replies
The elements in NY make wood a poor choice for your project.
Look at a synthetic deck wood for the surfaces and bent tube underneith for the support and structure.
When you say "bent tube" what
When you say "bent tube" what exactly are you talking about. Is this something I can do? Budget and all :(
I've built quite a few although not recently.
If I remember correctly, I used three 2x4s for each bench and seven for the table top with about 3/8'" to 1/2" between the bench members and top members. 2x6s for the splayed legs and 2x6s for the horizontal members that supported the benches. I made mostly 6' length picnic tables but some 8' as well. Four Galvanized 1/2" bolts to join the horizontal members to the legs and four more to join the legs to the vertically oriented 2x4 that the seven top members were screwed to.
I made them out of PT back then, of course that would be a no-no today. The bottoms of the legs have deteriorated a bit where they come in contact with the ground. Maybe if I were going to make one today, I'd screw a scrap of Azek to the bottom of the leg.
Thanks for input. I think I'm going to go with redwood after a little research. It was mentioned here to maybe try composite, which is a great idea, but the order is for wood.
Any thoughts on redwood, using all 2x6?
Keep in mind that redwood is softer than most other choices (other than plastic). So it will need a bit more bracing than standard designs.
Also, the quality of the redwood will be a factor. You probably should use "construction heart" -- "clear" will cost you TWO arms and a leg, plus your first-born, and "garden" will be too knotty to be structurally sound.
You might note that you don't really need treated for picnic tables -- the difference in lifetime isn't going to be that great. Plain old decent quality lumber will work OK if painted/stained well. The feet go first, so set the completed table in 4 pie pans and pour some nasty wood preservative into each and let it soak overnight. (Do this even for treated/redwood.)
Another option, if there's a sawmill nearby, is rough 2x oak -- it's strong and fairly rot resistant. We've got a 30-year-old picnic table -- left outside all year -- made of oak (though truthfully it was pretty shot about 10 years ago).
Try searching the web for the design. There must be a lot out there and free. The support structure can be treated wood. Make the top and the seat from plastic decking. Plastic bends a lot so you will need more supports under them. Picnic table like this weighs a lot, however, so you should have at least 4 people moving each, or have dollys.
Well looks like redwood is out. seems to be a problem getting it according to several lumberyards today??????????
So, what does anyone think about Southern yellow pine????
I was looking at a few sites for tables on the web and they said some good things about SYP. Anyone work with this type of wood?
Southern yellow pine is what we get here on the Right coast for treated wood. ( It's mostly AQC now I think) It's not a very uniform wood due to knots, variations in hard parts vs soft parts etc, But it would probably be fine for outdoor picnic tables.
The funny thing is, I've used a ton of it over the years, but I've never used it in untreated form.
The fella' at the lumber yard said i might want to think about using "MCQ" which if I'm correct is yellow pine?????. He said that the treatment in the lumber would not present a problem in using it for a table that would eaten off of. But i don't think I'm comfortable with that. Ant thoughts????
I would go with Cedar. Looks good, lighter in weight, and it will last.
Doug fir is not bad as far as cost/rot resistance goes. Better than southern yellow pine if I remember right, although anyone feel free to correct me on this. Definitely better than most pine. If you can afford cedar you can probably afford redwood.
If cost is an issue I'd second the use of either used or rough sawn. Green lumber will warp all over the place so especially if it's rough sawn check to see how dry it is. Since it's for little league and you are volunteering your time (no?) don't be shy about saying that to the mill operator if going with rough sawn--very good chance he'll cut you a deal. Also, ask around and talk to the lumber yard managers about your situation. Some have piles of old lumber that is in good shape it just looks rough and is set aside and sold for next to nothing. Ask if they would be interested in donating it.
If it were me I'd also call around and talk to deck contractors--it might be that one of them has some redwood stuff not suitable for decks but that would work for your situation, or they have a soft spot for the little league fields.
Also check craigslist for a tear off deck--in these parts it's not hard to find a redwood deck in good structural shape that is free for the taking if you remove it. We just tore one off last summer that was 2x6 redwood in really pretty good shape, just looked a bit gray.
Thanks for the post, good info.
I'm not really familiar with what "rough sawn" means. Can you elaborate on that for me?
With the Doug Fir are you referring to the doug fir 2x material on the racks at HD?
Wasn't sure that that would be appealing with all the knots, sap and stampings all over it. I dunno.
I appreciate the input
On a side note, the design I am using requires 3 2x6's to be bolted together at certain points. I can't seem to find any 1/2" x 4.5" cairrage bolts. I don't want the end of the bolts sticking out past the end of the wood. The only 4.5" c bolts I can find are 1/4" which seem to thin to me.
Do cairrage bolts come in 1.5 x 4.5"??? Would 1/4" be sufficient??? I'd rather not use 1/4"
Look for a Fastenal near you. They can get anything you need. McFeely's too.
Fastenal? Never heard of it. Is that a retail store or an online site?
Fastenal has retail stores in many communities -- look in the phone book. Downside is that they have a minimum order for people who don't have an account with them -- something like $50.
For something like a bolt, they should have it in stock.
"Rough sawn" is what it
"Rough sawn" is what it sounds like -- wood that had been sawn but not then planed smooth like most framing lumber. The surface will be rough, with visible saw marks.
Quick question on the table top construction of the picnic table. Is it necessary to leave a gap between the 2x6's on the table top. I'm using seven 2x6's for the top. I kinda' like the way the top looks with no gaps, but am not sure if this would caause a problem with water, expansion etc...
Gaps are better than no gaps IMO. It allows the rain to drain and the wood to dry out.
What would be a good gap to leave between planks?