I just bought a used Ridgid TS3612 table saw and it comes with a zero clearance insert. I would like a few more on hand. However there aren’t any part numbers on it and it’s not listed in the owners manual. I called Ridgid and the gal says it’s $87 for one. I can’t believe it would be that much. Plus, I don’t know if it’s what I want cuz they don’t have a part number either.
Does anyone have this saw and have an insert with a part number? How hard would it be to make one? Any ideas?
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Replies
Check out Peachtree Woodworking here:
http://www.ptreeusa.com/zero_clearance.htm
I don't know which insert you need, but I'm happy with the one I bought for my Craftsman table saw.
Thanks for the link! I found the size I need and only $16 plus $ s/h.
What? You're going to buy it? After all the suggestions on how to make one you're going to spring for a staggering $16?
Well, ok, maybe it's not actually so staggering after all.
Glad to help.
I've made a zillion. 1/4" Lexan is best, if in a pinch 1/4 Tempered Hardboard ( masonite) or 1/4" (nominal) Baltic Birch ply works as well.
I too am worried since the outer edge is so thin. Could be scary to use and too labor intensive to make. I just can't fathom that they want $87 for one.
The one that came with it does have the spring clip in the front and a countersunk spot in the back for a screw.
In my head I see a couple of 'ears' like a old work electrical box has. These would suck the plate down and keep it front flying out. I guess a couple of set screws could hold up so the top is flush with the tabletop.
If the ones I ordered work, I'll just order more. If not, I'll be back to see what you guys come up with.
Thank you everyone for your input.
Can't you just make an insert out of some scrap plywood? I like using Baltic birch ply, or some other multi-ply, but MDF or similar could be used, too.
I don't know what the Rigid insert looks like, but I've made lots of zero clearance inserts for my contractor's saw. Simply use the existing one as a template to mark the plywood, cut a little outside the line, and, using double stick tape to hold the factory insert to the ply, use a ball bearing guide bit to true it up.
You could make a heck of a lot of them for $87
I always makw them.. half inch plywood, MDF and or Corian. I put adjusters on mine. With plywood or MDF I use t-nuts and put in allen screws to adjust the insert to the table top.
That don't work for the thin sheet metal ones. Your way is for the 1/2" thick type. The thin ones on some saws are a real PITA with a recessed screw hole stamped in the metal.
OK.... You are right. I have never had a thin type of a saw. A buddy of mine did. I forgot how he made his. I plain forgot about the differences.
Those thin ones are scary. I worked with a guy back in the 70s who had a (Craftsman?) with a sheet-metal insert. He used Masonite, feathering out the edges with a belt sander.Scared the s*** out of me thinking what could happen if he hit a loose knot!IMO, it's irresponsible engineering to design an insert like that, especially if replacements are pricey. I have no idea whether the Ridgid in question has a thick or a thin insert, but think how many bozos would make a really dangerous replacement just to save $20?There's no reason at all not to design around a standard 1/2" thickness.AitchKay
The thin ridgid ( I have the same saw) is still a racetrack oval and has a keeper screw and a spring clip. The BAD ones are the rectangular with the recessed screw divot. That is hard to cobble up properly, and there is very little anything to hold the plate in the hole.The oval ones can be made a skootch fat and pressed in, I have to thump mine down and they are dandy.Saying all that, I still prefer the thicker ones, on saws so equipped, my last one AMT had a standard size, like Delta and PM use.With any there is also some tricks to get the first kerf established, I use a smaller blade and clamp the fence w/a sacrificial fence ( 2x4) clamped to it over the blade...OR one can double stick tape the new insert over the original and crank up thru that sammich.I have inserts for all dado sizes I use, as well as some at common angle stops, and molding head cutter profiles..the close fit helps the dust collector do it's job mo'betta.
Looking at the picture on line.
If you make a couple of jigs to hold and guide a router you could make 20 in an hour.
Looks like it has a thinner outer rim. When it arrives post a picture before you use it and we'll see what we can come up with.
Sevreal years ago I bought a porter cable table saw for the reason that I could make a dozen zero clearence inserts at home from baltic birch plywood. Is the Rigid that thin at the edges? Bummer,, it's worth the couple hours to tool up and make a 10 year supply at once!
Make it. Lexan, hard maple, baltic birch ply. I have made many for different size dado cuts and 45 cuts.
Keep trying the store bought route too. I bought a dado insert and a zero clearance for my DW 744 and they have worked out quite well.