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I’m gearing up for the next phase of renovations. The plan is to remove the existing roof from the house (2 story) and replace it with a steeper pitch scissor truss.
Other than the cedar shingles, which look like they could have been original (built 1908), the original roof is in good condition. Standard construction. Gable on each end, 2×4 rough framing, planked. Very few signs of water damage and the framing is straight and true. Seems to have been the only house on the block that was built to a higher standard of quality. I’ve come to like the look of old fir studs and planking and take every opportunity to save the lumber for future projects. The roof is no exception.
The question is what’s the quickest way to get it off with the minimum of damage?
Having cut my teeth removing the interior planking from the walls, I know the only way to save the wood is to pry the nails one by one until it comes free. It’s a time consuming process I don’t want to attempt 2 stories up.
I’m considering cutting the roof into sections, then hoisting it down with a crane. I can schedule the crane around some other work moving steel I-beams, and probably hoisting up the new trusses immediately after. Once the roof is on the ground I can spend as much time as I want stripping the wood out. I’ll have to brace the second floor walls diagonally to the floor before the roof is cut free.
I can’t think of an easier way to do this, but I can’t help feeling that I’m not seeing the forest for the trees either. How would you do it?
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How big is it? What is the pitch? How many layers of roofing? Is it sheeted solid with 1X, or what?
*Hey Scott,I'm like you in that I like old wood, and framing. Old tools too. I have to check myself for sensibility quite a lot when it comes to these things, and decide if it's really something worth fiddling with. And, I'll have to say, you'd have to really love those planks to worry about them. I'd get a chainsaw and let it rip!Hiring a crane would be costly- you could buy some fantastic wood for the savings! Let's see, reclaimed Dade County Pine, Riverbottom Cypress, old growth White pine 20" wide from L. Superior, Heartpine, etc.MD*****
*Whoops,Just reread your post to see you weren't nuts about the crane, yeah, you may only need it a couple hours extra, might be worth it if you're really well prepared. But I would make darn sure I had my ducks in the proverbial row before I concentrated on saving the sections, wouldn't want to have a crane waiting while fiddling around with all kinds of stuff but maybe you're a lot wealthier than me (not much doubt on my en
*Jim, The roof is about 39' x 20' floor area, 11 pitch. Prime example of roof framing. 16 OC rafters, collar tie 1/3 of the way up (I guess that makes the house a 1 and 1/2 story instead of 2). Planked with 1x10 (can't recall exactly), papered and one layer of cedar shingles. If the shingles have been redone, it was a very long time ago.I'm most keen on preserving the planking. Over the years, shrinkage as spaced the planks quite nicely, so it would be fairly straight forward to cut the roof length wise in sections between every 4 or 5 rows. Maybe all I really need to do is start from the top, fold back a section at a time and slide them down with ropes. There's not much concern for damaging the exterier walls. Supporting the roof structure during the process looks daunting.
*Well, the reasson I asked about how many layers of roofing was I was tryin' to get a feel for weight. The reason I asked about the sheathing was I wanted to get a feel for what structural integrity a section might have if you were to cut it into sections. If what you want to salvage is the sheathig, I think you could -1. tear off a foot or so of roofing, right above where the rafters tie into the top plate (this will vary, depending on overhang).2. Remove one or two coarses of sheathing, exposeing the framing connection between roof and wall/floor.3. Expose the framing at the peak in a similar manner. Now you can see what you got, top and bottom. 4. Decide how long a section you think the crane can safely lift (I would under NO circumstances try to lower a section by hand using ropes, or even those Proctor wall jacks everyone is gaga about).5. I might be tempted to use two 4X12s perpendicular to the rafters and underneath them to lift with. You could attach them with framing anchors and cut holes in the sheathingto slip the crane's belt through, or use eyebolts through the beams to lift with.6. Make a series of vertical cuts through the sheathing that will define how long each section will be - I'd think you coud lift off 16' sections no sweat with about a 30 or 40 ton crane. I recently moved a 26X34' house with 4 layers of roofing and it only weighed 26 ton. But don't take my word for it, do some calculations on the weight thing.7. I would make the cuts at the top and bottom of the rafters last, just before making the pick. Sawzall, chainsaw, or skilsaw, depending on the situation. Of course, you have already mentioned tempoarily bracing walls , but don't forget the other half of the roof will need to be supported when you remove the first side.8. If what you want to save is the sheathing, I'd try to lay the sections on the ground upside down, with rafters on top, then bust the rafters off the sheathing with about an 8lb sledge hammer. OK, OK, settle down. You said you wanted to save the sheathing, right?Is this about what you had in mind? The other thing you could do pretty easilly would be to make horizontal cuts just below the collar ties on each side and remove that peak as a unit. You could probably pick that entire thing off in one pick which would save longer pieces of sheathing.