Does anyone know why old time framing squares had legs that taper from the center to the ends? I have owned a number of these squares , but have never understood why the legs should taper. It does’nt seem to add anything to the operation of the tool, and it certainly isn’t decorative! Thoughts?
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Greetings J,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
'Nemo me impune lacesset'
No one will provoke me with impunity
Any chance of picture? don't think I ever saw one.
cuts down on the weight of the tool..?
I've got one that is screwed together at the heel, so it needed to be thicker there to get enough threads for the screw....
Are you talking about a taper ground framing square? The steel is thicker at the intersection than at the ends of the legs. It's to provide more strength at the joint/ Those are hard to come by... got any extras?
I've one of those but bent out of square and I failed at attempts to square it. You know of any techniques other than a punch point at the intersection?
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
I've only heard of the punch method. You could probably take it to a grinding shop and have them grind one leg square to the other... or you could just toss it and buy a new one for much less.
When did you say you were coming this way?
I use my grandfather's tapered square and have squared it successfully. Very important where you hit it. Used a ball peen, apparently guessed right.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!