what are your methods for securing temporary staging on a roof
much like a roof jack but my platform will have legs running perpendicular to courses on roof – 2 X 6 screwed into plywood
is there a simpson tie or like that lies flat to go under comp roof then turns 90 degrees to give me somewhere to screw or nail?
Replies
What I often do for the masons when building or retopping chimney -
I take a 2x8 running vertically up the roof, and screw right through the shingles using structural screws or lags.
They build their steel pipe staging on this, with screws or lags I provide, to be sure they are short enough that the only holes in the sshingles aare the ones I put there.
After they are done and gone, I remove the 2x8s and fit AL slips up under the shingle tabs and use a dab of caulk to be sure they don't slide out. the small screw hole is there, but with caulk in it, and AL metal over it, but invisible from the ground.
I have also used the ridge hooks for chicken ladders on a semipermanent basis, and have placed roof jacks for planks, but it sounds like the first is what you need
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Thanks Piffin
I may go the way of the 2 X on its belly
I have an item or two to pick up at the lumberyard & I can't help but think perusing the Simpson bins I'll find something that might workwhen you say AL metal you saying aluminum?
Yes, but slips of about any metal will work.
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might mention that you do something first to protect the shingles from mortar.. AS far as straps, I use 20ga metal straps nailed under tabs wrapped around 2x4's with wood staging nailed to them. When it's done, raise the tabs and cut off the straps.
This is what I do, and I believe in the no holes in the roof at all theory.
I lay 2 x 8's flat on the roof, both sides of the peak, connected by plumbers strapping. It just sits on the roof by force of gravity. No holes to repair when you're done.
I then build my staging off of the 2x's. 28 years and never had a strap break, they're plenty strong. And I put a bit of weight on it.
Sometime I've used 16' 2x's if I needed to get lower on the roof.
My peak staging gets nailed to the 2x's, duplex curled over.
One roof was so steep that I actually chained my peak staging together......just in case!
Rod
PS The roof was being replaced in 2 weeks.........no comments about messy masons
Wow, you are depending on plumber's tape so that you may live to see another day? Can I persuade you to pony up for a coil of Simpson strap instead?
On another note, that's a curious archtop window in your photo, so close to the ground. What's the story there?
Never heard it called plumbers tape.........plumbers strapping maybe. Thought about using Simpsons strap, but never really felt the need. Never........not once have I had any failing with the other strapping. Of course I use about 4 dups per plank, 2 straps per plank. And actually........lately.........I've been using steel chimney roof brackets, which are steel brackets that are bolted to the 2 x 8's and are hinged at the peak, and adjust to many roof angles. I only got them because I hada few jobs going and wanted to try different things.Maybe, subconciously I was worried about the strapping. But, again.....many years with no problem.That arched opening was a door opening into a leanto addition of the barn behind it. It was screened in..........no windows there. Rod
I like the look of those chimney roof brackets. Do you have a brand name or source where I could find some?
Thanks
Bob
There are two distict items in the previous photo.
Nailed to the planks are a set of chimney bracket scaffolds on each side of the chimney to which you can set 5x7 pipe staging on top to enable more height to be used.
The ultimate ridge hooks appear to be holding the planks together at the ridge.
Uh, never mind. I just looked up the Ultimate Ridge Hooks mentioned by TheMason and they appear to be just what you have.
Thanks
Bob
Good idea, I like it.Now, what do you do on hip roofs?
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I've been lucky enough in my career that I've only had to work on one hip roofed house, and the chimney came out right at the point! It was not an easy set up, (I remember that), but I don't have any pictures except for the original chimney, pre set up. I do remember that I did connect 2 planks (all planks are full 2 x 10 x 8'or 16' spruce)with plumbers strapping, but connected them parallel to each other with approx 6' between them, then slipped it over the chimney , with the chimney between the planks. Then built whatever staging I needed off of that. I use 3 5/8" Ledger Locks to hold all the planking together. Sometimes it takes more time to set up staging than it does to rebuild the chimney, and always 2 guys. I'm a big guy, I do my own staging, don't trust anybody else to do it.Here's a picture of the pre setup chimney and the house I worked on that I chained my staging together at the peak. At this point it's held by plumbers strapping and ratchet straps......and I still didn't feel safe. I got 2 10' lengths of chain and locked them together.A lot of times I set up a tower, in conjunction with the peak staging, with a 50" x 16' walkway between. Rod
Very nicely set up in the picture thats fully staged and the ladder-vator used for debris removal!
thank you all & compliments on your upgrade from the plumbing strapping notagain
Isn't that the Parson Capen House in Topsfield, MA. I grew up about a mile from there, my folks still live there.
There is currently a crew of steeplejacks replacing the chimney on the congregational church right across the common. Looks like they are doing a high quality job on that as well. Completely rebuilding the steeple. I wish I had more time when I am up visiting to see some of the timberframing they are doing.
It certainly is, and the crew that is working on the church is the same crew who works on the Parsen house. It's Preservation Timber Framing out of Berwick Maine, headed by Arron Sturgis.They are a great bunch of talented guys who I've had the pleasure of working with many times. I try to get up there ( I'm in CT) about 6 weeks a year or so..........I am a stonemason/brick mason,wanna be timber framer and Arron puts me into his projects wherever he feels I can be be most productive. I was asked to work in Topsfield but my schedule didn't allow.A finer group of guys to work with would be hard to find. Rod
Cool, I used to ring the bell in that church as a kid. I beleive it has an original Paul Revere bell in it. My kids were able to watch the removal of the steeple last year. It was quite an event in town. Wish I could have been there for it.
I use a product called "the ultimate ridge hook", I have used them quite a fem times and they work great are fairly easy too put up and leave no holes in the roof.
I just finished a standing seam metal roof with a 4 and 12 pitch. Every time you put down a tool it either slid or scratched the kynar finish. I finally borrowed four interlocking rubber mats from a friend who runs a ju-jitsu gym. That took the worry right out of it, even working in the morning with lots of dew. I wonder how they would work on asphalt shingles?
yes I concur
in my random tool section I have some rubber rug pad matting that I use under ladders & such if there is a bit of an incline
where are you - do you do standing seam in PacNW?
Standing seam may not be the right term. they are 12" sheets that snap together over the previous ones to hide the fasteners. Fairly idiot proof, although each skylight took me over an hour to flash.
I am on Vancouver Island.
Edited 12/3/2006 12:09 pm ET by fingersandtoes