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b TVMDC
Thank you, Mike.
Bob,
- My opinion is based on years of treating termite and dryrotted sill plates. Besides, termite shields are designed to work against Subterranean Termites. What do you do with dry wood termites that can fly? Accordingly, I have not seen an effective use of a Metal shield. That is why I prefer a Chemical shield. But then again, some people prefer mashed potatoes and gravey with their salisbury steak.
- The framing members I mentioned are 18″ above grade per code regs. The water solution carries the borates into the wood and upon evaporation, leaves the salts. As such it is better to treat dry or drier wood as wet wood won’t absorb as much of the borates as the other two. Effective treatment lasts about 6 years. If the area has too much moisture, the crawl space should be vented or ventilated. Even so, the borates may leach to the surface but will continue to protect the wood.
- As for retreatment, it is no different than painting or reroofing. However, it is not something that is on everybodys’ punch list: but it is on mine for my clients. In fact I have one client whose raw, exposed, 100 year-old 3x redwood deck gets treated every year. But Borates are not for everybody. Like in Scotland where they have scratchy sweaters: To Itch His Own
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I always thought it was pretty much standard practice to use copper termite shield under treated plates on a house foundation, but I've found out that's not necessarilly the case. I've seen several houses lately that either use aluminum flashing for termite shield, or don't use any at all.
What's the deal ?
*on,We used to use Galvanized termite shield but dropped it completely several yr. back. I don't know that it ever did any good or harm for that matter. Here in VA, we use treated plates and all banks here require termite treatment by a professional in the loan package. I'm looking forward to hearing from others on the subject.kcoyner
*b TVMDCMetal shields are useless. The best protection for framing above the sill plate and above piers, if any, in the crawl space is to spray the joists, rim joists, floor sheathing, plates and about 3' of the studs with a borate solution like BoraCare or Timbor both of which are available from Nisus Corp. In addition to protecting against termites, borates protect against dry rot and fungus. It is probably the most cost-effective and non-toxic approach to pest protction. While Nisus sells only to distributors, your local pest control operator can either perform the spraying or possibly provide you with the product. BoraCare is put up in 1 gallon bottles and is mixed 1:1 with hot water. The 2 gallon solution will cover from 150-300 SF depending on what you're spraying. The 1 gallon concentrate runs $65-$75 each depending upon from whom you're buying it. BoraCare can also be used for exterior applications (shingles, decks, fencing, etc.) provided the wood is either painted or sealed as the borate salts are water-soluable and would dissapate quickly if not protected.
*Bill,<> Fact or opinion? If fact, your sources?<> <>Ummm, since moisture is necessary for rot and fungi, isn't the very condition necessary for them to grow the condition that defeats borates?What's the life expectency of this stuff? What happens if there's a flood? Retreatment necessary? Will retreatment be done by everyone?I ask these quetions not knowing much about this product, and with a healthy dose of skeptism, but willing to be convinced/educated.Bob
*bob... it's not so much that metal termite shields are useless.. it's more that 99% of them were never installed corrctly... with 100% pleated / and/ or/ soldered joints and corners... and 100% soldered penetrations at each anchor bolt...when the most numerous insect in the world, the termite, sends their scouts to your house.. they WILL find the route in.. as you know..the borates like BORA-CARE love water, to help with penetration it actually helps to apply it to wet lumber..anyways, i haven't seen a termite shield in about twenty years..not required..standard practise is a pressure treated sill..b but hey, whadda i no ?
*b TVMDCThank you, Mike. Bob, My opinion is based on years of treating termite and dryrotted sill plates. Besides, termite shields are designed to work against Subterranean Termites. What do you do with dry wood termites that can fly? Accordingly, I have not seen an effective use of a Metal shield. That is why I prefer a Chemical shield. But then again, some people prefer mashed potatoes and gravey with their salisbury steak.The framing members I mentioned are 18" above grade per code regs. The water solution carries the borates into the wood and upon evaporation, leaves the salts. As such it is better to treat dry or drier wood as wet wood won't absorb as much of the borates as the other two. Effective treatment lasts about 6 years. If the area has too much moisture, the crawl space should be vented or ventilated. Even so, the borates may leach to the surface but will continue to protect the wood. As for retreatment, it is no different than painting or reroofing. However, it is not something that is on everybodys' punch list: but it is on mine for my clients. In fact I have one client whose raw, exposed, 100 year-old 3x redwood deck gets treated every year. But Borates are not for everybody. Like in Scotland where they have scratchy sweaters: To Itch His Own
*Bill, Mike,Thanks for the info and further explanations.In my area, we only have the subterranean termites; I figured that with the Formosa (name?) dry wood flying termites, you'd just cut the shield wide and wrap it up around the building Think of what you'd save in windows, doors, siding and roofingMike, FWIW, in my neck of the woods, I've never seen a metal termite shield incorrectly installed. Of course, I've never seen one at all, so that's one thing they couldn't butcher.Bob
*Ron, I have never seen a copper termite shield. We are required by code to use metal shields and aluminu m always gets the nod. The chemicals seem to do a good job, but like I said our localities require metal. Skip