I’m in my first project laying T&G plank flooring (bamboo). The majority of the floor went together pretty well once I learned a technique to close up the end joints and keep them that way – this is a glue down over a concrete floor. [yes, it’s an ‘engineered’ plank system that’s designed for this type of installation].
The question is, how do you pros get the last two rows of this type of stuff squished together? I ended up using a break adjusting tool prying agains the stud plate to get the joint to close. This particular bamboo plank product has an extremely tight T&G profile that I have to really rack hard to get closed – using a scrap piece of material, of course.
Is there some tool or technique youz guys keep secret from us wannabe finish workers? (grin)
Replies
dennis, I usually use a wedge and block up to the last pc, then a prybar and block for that last run. I have never tried the suction cup and comealong strap used for laminate flooring. Might work.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks for the reply, Calvin. My situation is a little complicated since I'm having to recess the new floor under existing drywall that's been cut up 2" for a recessed base - not much room to get the prybar under the drywall and agains the rough framing. Long story but the detail looks great and Mom likes not having to dust the top of the base. Or will like not having to dust it.
Guess I'll fabricate a thinner prybar out of some of the junk I have lying around.
Thanks again............
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Dennis, there's a pry bar from Red Devil that alot of glazers use. It's nice and thin, with a small downturn on one end, flat bar on the other. You could hook that bent end down over the flooring and push sideways (rock it side to side) which would put pressure on the edge of the flooring. The downturn can't be more than a half inch. A good bar to have a couple of. Way thinner and smaller than a Wonderbar.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin -
Thee way you describe it - it sounds like the perfect tool. I'll do a search & destroy mission directly to uncover such a beast.
Thanks for the suggestion!!
...........
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
View ImageRemodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
HD sells that same pry bar in the paint scraper section. I believe that Hyde makes it.
Jon Blakemore
Thank you jon, those are easy to misplace. I know of one bay window toe kick that has one.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 11/28/2003 11:43:34 PM ET by calvin
Calvin -
That's the ticket! Thanks.
Lessee , that tool probably costs about $5 or so, maybe a little more. I've got plenty of scrap iron lying around, I could spend a couple hours hacking something out .....
Naw .... I'll go buy one! (hehehehe)
Thanks again.
...........
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
I am on the edge of my seat. What was the technique you used to get the matched ends tight and keep them that way during the gluedown?
Micro -
I'll try to describe the proceess as best I can. Understand, this is my first attempt at doing this kind of flooring work.
I spread the mastic only three courses wide at a time so I wouldn't exhaust the open time of the adhesive in case I ran into problems. I'm using Taylor's 2071 wood floor adhesive that's specified for wood floors over concrete with radiant heating.
To close the end joints, I shimmed the first piece of the run about 1/4" from the framing plate and racked it into position. The next piece I fitted up to the first and lightly tapped the tongue into the groove while holding the free end up just clear of the glue bed. Of course, this means the running joint is far from closed at this point. But once the end joint was pretty well closed, I lowered the plank slowly down into the glue bed while tapping the end to keep the endd joint closed. Had to take care not to tap on the top edge to avoid damaging the pre-finish.
OK, now the new plank is lying in the glue bed. With a scrap piece with a tongue groove used as a beating block, I tapped about 45* towards the end joint working from the 'free'end towards the fixed end, working the plank in a bit at a time. I found that if I tried to close the end joint after the horizontal plank joint had been racked closed, all bets were off! (grin). I had to close the end joint best I could then work the horizontal joint closed a bit at a time working always towards the closed end to keep it tight.
As a side note -
I've got several more rooms to lay with this plank flooring but I'm all but convinced that I'll give up on the prefinished stuff! I think a 'finished in place' end product will produce a far superior end product.
...........
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]