I am adding a small area between my garage and my house. The distance is about 10 feet from house to garage, and the width will be 9 feet.
On the house side the existing wall is brick veneer over 2×4. The brickwork is completely filled in with a very hard mortar. The garage has cedar
siding which I intend to take off to expose the 2×4 framing.
Now the question: Do I have to remove the brickwork, or can I tie the new 2×4 framing into it. I
know it’s not a structural piece but the new framing will have a floor joist and ceiling joist
snuggled up sideways to it, and I REALLY don’t want to take the bricks down.
Thanks,
Rusti
brick on house
|______________|
| |
| NEW |
| |
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CEDAR SIDING
Edited 11/6/2006 2:10 pm ET by thetigger
Edited 11/6/2006 2:11 pm ET by thetigger
Replies
Cut pockets into the brick to recieve the structural members spanning the distance between the buildings. Run your floor joists & rafters perpendicular to these members. At least that's how I would do it.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Mike,
I live in Pittsburgh also and am looking for employment. Can you steer me to any high end builders?
Thanks
Their right next to the high end clients.
everybody is a comedian
If the brick wall is dry, I wouldn't cut into it. Any load you appl is going to be verticle so I wouldn't worry about drilling thru the brick and lagging (thoroughly) the infilll structure to it. Jim
Uh, not to be a wizeazz, but the load is vertical . . . until the wind blows. If I read his question right, he's got about 100' sq. of wall on each side and who knows how much roof sailing in the breeze, no?
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
I'd recommend against pocketing joists in a single wythe of brick. Two reasons -- at least where I am code prohibits pocketing if the masonry wall is less than 10 inches thick; code prohibits less than 3" bearing on a masonry wall (a single wythe of brick is 4" so are you gonna leave an inch or punch holes on your singly wyth veneer); and last, the wall was not intended to bear weight when built -- from what I am getting, ou need to support a floor and roof (actually half a floor and roof as the garage foundation will support the other half).
Would it be difficult to dig and place a proper footing/stemwall and rest the new structure on that, directly next to the house? We do that sort of thing all the time here where rowhouses are literally next to each other and the existing party walls don't meet code to pocket new joists and rafters.
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
I think I explained it wrong. I don't actually want to put any structural pressure on the brick, I'm coming up from the ground with afooter and foundation. It's just that when the 2x4 framing meets the brick wall I wasn't quite sure how to handle it.Tigger
You can tie to the masonry similarly to tieing to an existing wood framed house.
What I am imagining is a "breezeway" between house and garage. Is this what you're doing?
If so, build the breezeway essentially as a freestanding structure (from a structural point of view) and tie a vertical ledger to the existing brick at the corner of each side wall. The sheathing of the breezeway would then nail to this vertical ledger at each side wall.
For water detailing, put your 15# paper on the breezeway, cut a vertical kerf into the brick and let in flashing that will lap over the paper, adhering into the kerf with a quality caulk (same as you would let in counter flashing horizontally in masonry). Place a corner board over that and nail up siding on the new breezeway same as usual. What it will look like is siding butted to a corner board, as usual, butted to the brick.
If you want to get really fancy, cut a channel vertically in the brick the corner board can slide into, say about 1/4" to 1/2" deep and as wide as the corner board. Depending on how the brick is pointed, this may or may not be something that looks needed.
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla