Hello,
I’ve got a shower detail that I’ve got to solve that I just can’t seem to come up with a good solution to. I’ve seen satisfactory end results so I know the answer is out there. Maybe someone here could help. I am doing a large custom shower with a picture window (overlooking a stream) in it. I want to come up with a tile detail at
the sill which does not rely solely on a caulk line to keep water from getting behind the tile. Any ideas gratefully appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Hitch
Replies
Why use a sill at all? I've returned the tile to window (usually fibreglass, vinyl or glass block) and had good results. However, the last joint from tile to frame has been urethane caulk for a long lasting, movement possible seal. Waterproof membrane can be wrapped or applied into the opening prior to the window being set. Tipping the bottom return out to the tub keeps standing water to a minimum. Best of luck.
__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Thanks for the idea, it will help.
Tom
The best detail I ever did was in this house here I built. I just tiled around the window and used the trim tiles with the bullnose edge over the wall tiles onto the window jambs. I used no sill but if you want one then may I suggest a marble one or if the customer is persistant about wood make sure to buy a pint or quart of moisture cure finish and give it many coats...So simple..looks custom and works fantastic.
Be well
Namaste
Andy
It's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 9/10/2002 5:32:56 PM ET by Andy Clifford(Andybuildz)
Thanks for the idea re the shower. It will help alot.
Tom
I do sills all the time. Here is my thoughts:
1. 1. construct the walls and sills out of CBU's. If you are talented and so inclined, make them out of Mud. Thats better. The order of materials would be stud, greenboard, moisture barrier (felt or poly), 2.4 diamond lathe, 1/2 of mud scratch coat and thinset and tile. Mud is sloped to the inside by about an 1/8" per foot, like a half a bubble.
2. If you use CBU's, apply a surface trowel on membrane like Laticrete 9235. Same slope.
I don't understand how water could get into the framing. Could someone explain that to me?Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927
you might consider a non-operable unit (oredr just the glazing, and set it yourself), or an operable unit above a fixed one. depending on clime, i foresee a lot of condensate and overspray coming down the glass and roosting in any niches at the base of the glazing. ideally i think i'd waterproof the area using something like ditra or one of the other fiber-mat waterproofing layers. definitely slope the sill, and using marble is also good (corian leftovers work well).
Hoping you`ve come here prior to wall and window installation.....
All of the showers I build receive a layer of roofing felt over the studs prior to cement tile backer. Only when I cant talk the customer out of a window in a shower do I insist on a vinyl model. I prepare the rough opening to the inside as I would to the outside using ice sheild / roof membrane to rap window opening.
As far as finishing, I always use a sold peice of marble pitched into shower, overhanging wall tile as a stool, bringing tiles at "jamb" down on top.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Either way I think you're stuck having caulk be the final barrier for moisture. But this is pretty common throughout an installation. I would forgo the stool and run the tile directly up to the window, and seal that joint. By doing it this way, you have one caulk joint (where the tile meets the window) instead of two (where the stool meets the window and where the tile meets the stool). if the client is willing to pay for it, a trowel-on waterproofing membrane would offer added protection over the standard tar paper membrane.
Thanks for the ideas, I think they will help.