Replies

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 14, 2004 08:50pm | #1

   You do it the same way as straight layouts, excepot that you have to start with a 45* layout line.  You do want to be careful about where you start the layout, so you don't end up with a bunch of 1 or 2 inch triangles.  It's nice if you can have the point of a tile starting in a doorway or along the prominent wall, as long as the other end of the room looks ok.

   If you can post a picture or sketch of the room, we will give you more advice that you want  :)

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/14/2004 1:50 pm ET by Ed Hilton

2. 
   CapnMac | Jun 14, 2004 10:31pm | #2

   Ed gave the same answer I would.  If you are adding a bullnose tile, the back edge is where I'd start the "points" of the layout.  This puts the cuts (most likely) to the back, where they can 'die" under the splash tiles.  Depending upon the tile size, I'd likely start from the most prominent features for the left-right layout.  So, the edges by the range would be a good starting point, rather than, say, the sink, especially if the sink has a rim over the tile.  If the sink is undermount, or has a special tile edge, start the layout there.

   You also did not say if you are carrying the pattern up into the splash.  That can complicate things.  Then the layout really wants to be "backwards."  You need to layout fro mthe most visible corner (or corners), then transfer that layout down to the countertop.  (At which point you can then "cheat" the points up to the back of the bullnose, just follow the lines cast down from the wall.)

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
1. 
   crrepitus | Jun 14, 2004 11:00pm | #3

   Actually this is a floor layout.

1. 
   CapnMac | Jun 15, 2004 12:20am | #4

   As the old phrase goes:  "That's very different."

   Ed is probably still right, too.

   Layout on the floor.  You will probably either have an intersection or a whole tile in the center of the floor.  Now, kitchen floors are different, as the toekicks & cabinet bases change the perception of the floor.  For an "L" shaped kitchen, I'd center ftom toekick to wall in both directions.  For other arrangements, it would take an eyeball (or a plan)to assess.

   If the cabinetes are not installed, your life is much easier--just remember the toe kick (it can look odd otherwise, as I had to explain to the tilesetter one time . . . )Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

1. 
   crrepitus | Jun 15, 2004 01:09am | #7

   actually the cabinets arent in.  and the room is square.

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 15, 2004 02:09am | #9

   Ok, tell us more.  Is there an island in the middle of the room?  What are the dimensions of the room?  What size tile (or is that in the first posting)?  How many doorways.  Sure would be nice to have a sketch.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

2. 
   maverick | Jun 15, 2004 12:22am | #5

   Lay out the tiles on the floor to determine wher you want them to end. Mark the whole thing out on the floor. put down masking tape next to where you are going to put the first run. Start your layout in the center of the floor. That will make for less errors at the end. Install the first diagonal run complete before you go any further. now you can remove the masking tape. then break up the remainder of the job into 4 sections working from the center again. Use the masking tape again to keep the layout square. Tile perpendicular to the first diagonal then fill in the first field and so on.

3. 
   Schelling | Jun 15, 2004 12:51am | #6

   The layout of tiles on a 45 can be very difficult. There is a good chance that you will end up with small tiles someplace. Try to make this in an inconspicuous spot. The only way I have ever been able to do this is to layout the floor using the actual tiles laid dry to see how all the cuts will be.  One way I have kept my layout lines visible is to use string held above the floor on long screws. These screws can be left in the floor at the joints until the joints are ready to be grouted. This is particularly helpful in small cut up rooms where it is often difficult to find a place to stand amid tiles, mud, tools and layout lines. Good luck. You will need it.

1. 
   RichBeckman | Jun 15, 2004 01:12am | #8

   "One way I have kept my layout lines visible is to use string held above the floor on long screws."

   You should submit that as a Tip to FHB and make a few bucks. It sounds like a great idea.

   Rich Beckman

   Another day, another tool.

1. 
   JeffBuck | Jun 16, 2004 02:36am | #11

   Rich .. that string idea is even more valuable when the tile layout goes thru a hall or a coupla rooms ....

   keeps everything all nice and tight.

   a coupla more nails and string ... and you can take all the 90's off all the straight runs ... and go the whole way thru the house.

   JeffBuck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

4. 
   JeffBuck | Jun 16, 2004 02:34am | #10

   picture it layed out square ...

   now turn your body 90 degree right or left.

   There's your 90 degree tile layout.

   still square .... just not to the walls.

   Jeff

   Buck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 16, 2004 04:09am | #12

   Must be that Pittsburg geometry...  Jeffie, try turning your body 45 degrees...that's closer to a diagonal layout.    :)

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   JeffBuck | Jun 16, 2004 02:55pm | #15

   I meant go to 90 and check for the wind ...

   then slowly turn back 45 deg ....

   did ya buy that?

   JeffBuck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 16, 2004 03:03pm | #16

   That's just how I would do it too.  Gotta watch out for the wind...especially when it breaks.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   crrepitus | Jun 16, 2004 04:25pm | #17

   What if i strike 2 lines out of each corner of the room.  where the intersect should be the center and start running 45 off of those lines?

2. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 16, 2004 06:13pm | #18

   Sure, that works.  But...you end up with a tile (or a tile intersection) centered in the room...nothing wrong with that.  But yoiu need to see what that does to the tiles along the walls and in the doorway.  If having a tile centered in the room is the most important element, then it works.  However, you might end up with a row of tiles alomg the the prominent wall that are 3 inch triangles...or the same in the doorway.  You don't haver to have full & half tiles in the doorway, but you don't want them to be grossly out of symmetry.

   Here's two pics of tile floors in my house, one I did and one contracted out.  In the hallway pic, the tiles were centered left & right down the hall, which left slightly less than a half tile on each side.  Si the layout wasa adjusted so the end tile was the same size as the side tiles...makes it balance a bit better.

   In the bathroom pic, the tiles are on a diagonal, with the point of the grid at the doorway.  It happened that this resulted in an almost full tile at the other end of the room, which is ok, plus the doorway is more prominent so we left it that way.  Also, the sidewways layout was detemined by the look of the tiles in front of the tub (not shown) cu zthat was the mose prominent part.  it resulted in a little funny layout behind the door, but the door covers that most of the time.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

3. 
   crrepitus | Jun 16, 2004 07:23pm | #19

   Yeah your right.  i would rather have full tiles in the doorways.  here is a quick sketch of the room if it helps any.

4. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 16, 2004 09:18pm | #20

   Hey...could you make the file any bigger?  :)

   See if you can make sense of the attached.  It is probably off a bit, based on the sketch you provided, but it should give you an idea.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

5. 
   crrepitus | Jun 16, 2004 10:01pm | #21

   that looks pretty good.  i am going to run the tiles father under the cabinets though.  thanks for the help.  but how do i snap lines to start running the tile?

6. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 16, 2004 10:42pm | #23

   but how do i snap lines to start running the tile?  With a chalk box.  One person on each end, pull the string tight, and...  Ok, once you have the layout like you want, start with one of the longest joint lines.  Doesn't matter which one, probably one near the middle of the room.  Make a mark at the wall where that joint line hits the wall, measure along the wall 4 feet, measure out from the wall 4 feet (use a framing square to get it at 90 degrees), make a mark, and connect the two marks with a line.  Go 5 feet both ways if you can, but it looks like your room may be too small.  Carefully install as many full tiles along one side of that line as you can, getting them just as straight as possible, let them set about 30-60 minutes so they don't bump out of place too easily, then fill in the rest of the floor.  You should probably mix a small batch of thinset, just enough foir the first 6-8 tiles so you don't waste it while you're letting the first row set up.

   Doesn't matter if you run the tiles farther under the cabinets, what counts is how it looks where they dissapear under the edge of the toe kick.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

7. 
   CapnMac | Jun 16, 2004 11:28pm | #25

   but how do i snap lines to start running the tile?

   Once you decide on the starting point, take two measurements from it.  So, go 6' over and mark that.  Now, go 6' out.  That ought to create a 6' x 6' box from the start point.  The 45° layout line will run from the start to the diagonal corner of the box.  Laying this out with mason's twine before gettign out the chalkbox can help, too.

   Lay the field (uncut) tiles out first, that ought to let you look at how the layout is shaping up.  It also lets you check if it "looks" right, too.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

8. 
   CapnMac | Jun 16, 2004 10:41pm | #22

   Here's my go at it.  Once again, my own advice was just that--I preferred laying it out from the most visible coner:

   That's life, it's exactly the same except for where it's different.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

9. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 16, 2004 10:44pm | #24

   I like your least-cut pattern, but both of the centered patterns leave pretty small triangles at the lower right doorway.  If you shift the patter about an inch or so to the right, those small pieces go away, and no one would see the difference.

   What program did you use?  I used Autocad LT, did a save-as or export-as something (bmp possibly) then ran it through Irfan to convert to jpg.  Irfan wouldn't read the dwg file.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

   Edited 6/16/2004 3:48 pm ET by Ed Hilton

10. 
    CapnMac | Jun 16, 2004 11:33pm | #26

    What program did you use?  I used Autocad LT, did a save-as or export

    That's out of AutoCAD 14 (because that was what was open at the time <g>).  I used Export and saved it as a wmf (windows meta file), as that seems to be easiest all around.  At the house, I have a plot-to-raster printer (that prints to a filename) for this sort of thing.  Or, I'll use eps, and frog-march that through PhotoShop into a jpeg, which I can then squeeze down to managable size in PS.  If I'm not worried about lineweight, I can also just publish to pdf.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

5. 
   Tomar | Jun 16, 2004 04:25am | #13

   Draw out your room on 1/4 " graph paper, using a 'scale' of 1/4"=13".  'Darken' your drawing lines.  Put a 'blank' piece of 1/4" graph paper on top of it at a 45 degree angle.  Hold both sheets to the light, and 'adjust' for your best 'layout'.

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 16, 2004 06:28am | #14

   That's a neat idea TR.  Too simple.  But that demands an accurate drawing of the room.  Well, it will at least get the layout close.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt