What would you suggest as the best way to tile a narrow accent band running around a powder room at chair-rail height? The concern we have is that the accent band is trimmed in clearcoated cherry wood, which if in place before tiling, would confound the ability to grout, and the grouting would foul the finish on the wood.
If it can be done using temporary border strips, which would then come off and the finish cherry put on after tiling, what is the technique used to be able to break the grout bond line at the strips?
The client has chosen a glass mosaic tile, sold in 12×12 sheets.
Replies
I wouldn't grout the joint between the tile, and wood. I'd finish the wood first, then caulk the joint with color match caulking.
Here is the section detail. I don't see how you can grout the field, but not the edges, so you can caulk (rather than grout) the edges.
Maybe we can use Schluter's "Dilex" edging there, if we can get one in a compatible color, and at a low enough depth to go with the glass tile. Those glass mosaics are usually pretty thin.
The tile is only in between the cherry?
How about vaseline on a sacrificial screed?
1-5/8ths metal stud track, again with vaseline?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
You can easily grout the field and not the edges, that's necessary any time tile forms an inside corner, or abuts a dissimilar material. Mask off the cherry very well and grout the field, working up to but not into the joint against the wood. If grout gets in there, use a knife or awl to knock it out. Sponge the grout to shape and remove the masking tape.
When the grout is dry, mask again and caulk. Apply the masking tape exactly where you want the caulk to stop. Gun the caulk in, sponge it carefully to shape (and make sure none is stuck to the grout) and then pull the tape. One or two more swipes with the sponge and you're done. With a sanded caulk and a good color match the transition will be virtually invisible.
I have done this against wood finished with various film finishes and it works fine. Make sure there is sealer all the way around the back of the wood.
What Dustinf said.
I do wood inserts all the time, and quite frankly, they are better installed after the tile is thinsetted and grouted. I'd fill the slot with some backer rod, you know the foam rubber round thingy. That way grout says out of the channel. About 2-3 hours after grouting, or even the next day, pull the backer rod out and use a utility knife to clean out any grout while it is still reasonably soft. Then attach prefinished wood.
Have you thought how you are going to attach it? If it is really narrow, nails will split the cherry, right? And if installed over backer board, well, nails won't work at all. I'd start thinking about epoxy.
And sanded caulk betwenn the wood and the tile.
Regards,
Scooter
"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934