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I am tiling a bathroom where there is drywall from ceiling to ~4′ above the floor. Therefore an interface exists which must be accomodated. Surely this has been done before, but the best way escapes me. The CBB is spaced about 1/8-1/4″ from drywall. The drywall interface is at the tapered edge. So I have the full 2.5″ tapered edge to cover up (dw taper recommended leaving taper on instead of mudding flush). The tiles I have for the top edge are 3″ tall, so not much of the tile will overlay the CBB. This edge is 4’1″ from the floor and should be relatively safe from water.
Recommendations on how to best prep the tapered part of the drywall to get the top edge tile to adhere well and be flush with the lower tiles? Metal lathe and thinset on the tapered part and then tile like the rest? Mastic for the top edge tiles only?
Thanks in advance. SWright
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Furr the backerboard out from the studs to be in plane with the drywall above the taper. Get a tile wide enough to cover the full taper, or stack the tile one course higher than originally designed.
After rereading your post it appears the backerboard is already installed. If this is the case, you only have to come out a small fraction of an inch, right? Go with a larger notch on your trowel, or spread the thinset onto the backerboard as normal and simcoat each tile.
Mastic would be fine at the top tile, but not too thick (>1/4") and forget the lath. No sense in making it harder.
*Helo S. Wright,I didn't get this from a book but this is what I do: I take fiberglass mesh tape place it over the joint and imbed it in a high quality thinset. This bed coat would fill most of the taper but not build much thickness on the CBB. Next I set the tile. If the tile does not cover the thinset bed coat on the sheetrock then I would mud that with "hot mud" or other joint compound. Ideally the tile ends up on top of the finished sheetrock so you may need to run the mud before setting the tile. I could be more specific if I wasn't confused about why your tile isn't overlaying all of your CCB. Now its time for grout and paint as I prefer, or paint and grout if thats your flavor.Joe
*Thanks Joe (and Rich, Too).To make sure I have understood your method correctly, the mesh tape is applied so that it overlaps both CBB and drywall taper (but leans towards overlapping the drywall more)and is embedded in thinset which is trowled flush with both CBB and non tapered drywall. Then the top edge tiles are set like all the other wall tiles with thin set. The top of the edge tiles should extend slightly above the mud line on the dw taper. Do I have it?As a curiousity, you have not experienced any problems with the thin set on the dw taper coming loose? Do you do anything special to keep it and the mesh tape adhered?Also, regarding the why the tile doesn't overlap all of the CBB: I have 3" tall bullnose tiles which finish the top of 8x10 wall tiles. If I put the top of the 3" tile at the high side of the 2.5" dw taper, that only leaves me with ~1/4" overlap of the CBB. This tile manuf. didn't have wider bullnose tile, so I'm stuck with 3". Hope that clears it up. Thanks. Steve
*Steve that sums up my approach fairly well. The thinset isn't going anywhere; the drywall paper face it's bonded to is the weak link in this chain. If water sits on the top edge of the bullnose often, the sheetrock behind it will deteriorate. And you're welcome.Joe