Hey folks,
I want to tile over the original tile in a 1915 house. The floor, mudbed and tile are all in good shape, nothing loose. Any thoughts on prepping the floor to accept the new tile?
Coming to you from beautiful Richmond, Va.
Edited 2/28/2006 8:01 am ET by JoeyB
Replies
Just make sure that the floor can support the added weight. That 1915 mud job is 4 to 5 inches thick and is very heavy. You need to make sure that the joist are in good condition, no rot from an old leak etc.
Thanks Bill. Let me rephrase my question to ask only about prepping the old tile to take the thinset and new tile.Coming to you from beautiful Richmond, Va.
If the tiles are glossy, you need to provide some bite. There is thinset designed for your application. Check with a real tile store/distributor, not a big box store.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
required reading ...
http://www.mapei.com
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
You talking to me?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
no ... just adding to your advice.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
http://www.mapei.com
I'm thinking of doing this in the near future. Can you point me in the direction of which specific product I would use for tiling over tile, searching their site didn't seem to help me find anything. I'm assuming a Bonding Agent?
PJ
PJ:
Take a grinder with a masonry wheel on it and lightly "kiss" the surface of the existing tile to provide tooth for the new thinset. If you've already removed any base treatment in the perimeter of the room, place wet towels around the perimeter to catch any sparks and have at it. A modified thinset will give you a strong bond to that. Almost takes more time to describe than to do.
Since this is our only full bathroom, I'm thinking my orbital sander with a vac attached to it, to keep the dust to a minimum. Should I really worry about roughing up the edges of the tile where the grout lines are? There's maybe a 1/4" there between each tile that the sander wouldn't normally hit.
PJ
No need to make a career out of that floor. Get good tooth and adhesion to the top, flat surface of the tiles and you'll be well within adhesion % for the overall floor. Make sure the underlying tile is very clean, and modified thinset will actually adhere pretty good to even those edges -- sticks to darn near everything. The other day I accidentally splashed a few "snots" of it on the front of a refrigerator while doing a kitchen floor. After it set, it was a PITA to get even small bits of it completely off the smooth surface of the fridge.
Don't know if an orbital sander will do much to a floor tile even with agressive paper, but there's only one way to find out . . . . If it doesn't do much to it, you can rent a grinder for little $$$.
Oh, and I almost forgot -- to keep the dust down, have a helper hold the inlet of a shop vac near the edge of the grinder. It will suck up most of the dust as you go. Again, keep the sparks in mind and make sure the vac isn't already filled with anything that might burn if a spark somehow survived its way up the vac hose.
Let us know how it works out. Best of luck.
Edited 3/1/2006 11:28 am ET by philarenewal