Tiling tub surround: got it right?
When it comes to installing cement backerboard in order to tile a surround for a bathtub or pre-fab shower base, have I got it right? I did a little drawing to illustrate.
I forgot to add it in the image, but I would put tar paper as a drainage plane behind the backerboard.
I’m having a moment of doubt. Would it not make more sense to lap the backerboard over the flange? But then it would be splayed out all wrong looking.
I’ll add that my former employers LOVED cultured marble panels. I think we tiled all of two showers when I worked for them, neither of which I installed. So I’m lacking some education here.
Edited 1/8/2008 7:53 pm ET by Biff_Loman
Edited 1/8/2008 7:54 pm ET by Biff_Loman
Replies
Hmm, didn't work at first.
That's how I typically do it. Can be difficult with 1x1's depending on the gap size.
Yeah! I was wondering about that, too. I'm not about to pretend I'm a tiling contractor, but it's definitely possible that I'll end up installing the backerboard for a job I'm pricing out.
Edited 1/8/2008 7:57 pm ET by Biff_Loman
Yep. I do it that way as well, sans the felt. The tile is the drainage plane and if grouted properly, should not leak enough water to cause the need for felt.
On an exterior wall, I would be a little concerned about the felt as you have a double moisture barrier. (Felt and tile)
I have seen 1st hand what poly on the exterior wall and then the backerboard and then tile will do. It is not pretty so I would be cautious re. the vapor barrier/drain.
"The tile is the drainage plane and if grouted properly, should not leak enough water to cause the need for felt."
uh .... nope.
usually doesn't cause that much harm around a tub ...
but very dangerous thinking in a shower.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Thats how we do it. If you're still concerned about leakage, cram some silicon caulk in the gap between the hardi and the pan.
That is pretty much my installation detail as drawn.
Probably just the drawing, but I leave a gap between tile and tub which gets caulked - preferrably with the tub full of water. Caulk compresses better than it stretches.
Jim
I never thought of doing the caulk with the tub full. That makes so much sense. I periodically get a job digging out the old and recaulking. I guess I should add filling the tub when I do those too.
Grout is porous and will allow water behind the tile.
The roofing felt is the drainage plane and should overlap the tub flange. Then backer, then tile.
If you fill the drain with caulk, how's the water gonna get out?
I leave the seam between the tub and tile open for drainage/air drying. Liberty = Freedom from unjust or undue governmental control.
American Heritage Dictionary
I leave the seam between the tub and tile open for drainage/air drying.
That's Interesting, I never thought of doing it that way. It should work fine, but there are cosmetic and cleaning issues.
I have re-caulked many tubs where the tile meets the tub because people percieve that joint to be a common cause of leaks. It's not.
"but there are cosmetic and cleaning issues."
Clean cuts and cleaning brush... all's well.Liberty = Freedom from unjust or undue governmental control.
American Heritage Dictionary
It wouldn't make any sense for that gap to cause leaks. Water would still flow into the tub or shower base.
Acrylic and fiberglass pans have a channel and weep holes built in. Atleast the ones that I use do I always seal around the bottom and leave the weep hole open.
The roofing felt is the drainage plane and should overlap the tub flange. Then backer, then tile. - With an old existing job, there is no way to tell what overlaps. what then?
If you fill the drain with caulk, how's the water gonna get out? - PFM? <grin>
I leave the seam between the tub and tile open for drainage/air drying. - doesn't the misconception from the customer get you more often than not? On new construction it is easy to build it right and explain, but when they insist on an existing tub getting caulked. . .
Gotta see the studs before starting.
May be magic, but it seems to progress up the wall and down to the subfloor...
Edumacate them. If they want it caulked... there ain't no warranty.
Don't get me wrong. In most cases today the number of showers per tub per day is quite low with the increase to 3-4 full baths. That alone allows the system to dry pretty well and may last a lifetime without any real damage to the underlying structure.
Most redo's in this area with rotting wood seem to occur in homes with >=3 people taking showers each day in a one bath house. That is at minimum 21 drenchings per week. No amount of ventilation can dry that system if there is no way for the water to go down and out.
Don't get me started on windows over bathtubs. ;-)Liberty = Freedom from unjust or undue governmental control.
American Heritage Dictionary
I do it like that. THe guy I work with, packs out the studs with 1/4" strips and sets the hardi about 1/8" off the pan instead of on top of the flange. Both work in my opinion. If the walls are out, its better to pack out the studs with the strips. That gives you a chance to shim them plumb. It makes for a better tile job.
Yeah, I like that thinking!
THe guy I work with, packs out the studs with 1/4" strips...
I think this is a better way to do it. It makes for a nice flat wall and it provides a backer for bottom edge of the tile where it (almost) meets the tub.