I promised I’d post some table framin roof truss and gable pics and Tim keeps asking me to post more pics. I’m about ready to start getting into a roof system (maybe Wednesday)….so I’ll take requests if someone wants some specific shots of something.
The house we are doing is a typical 1 1/2 story, brick lower, Hardie plank upper. All the roofs are 12/12. The attached garage has a bonus room over it and the kids bedrooms are on the second floor behind the garage. They are covered by a gable roof. The master suite is one story and hipped but there is an octogon in the front.
We’ve aready table framed the garage walls and the kitchen walls (behind the garage). Right now the rest of the back wall is framed including the attached zero clearance chimney….we’ll be sending it in tomorrow morning.
The biggest challenge will be the upper gable, which will probably be too heavy for the crane. The Skytrak will be able to lift it, but we will have to clear a path to set it ( a frozen pile of dirt is slightly impeding our path).
Anyways, if there are some closeups or other pics that you might like me to concentrate on, just let me know, I’ll do my best to accomodate all requests.
blue
Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I’m a hackmeister…they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Replies
Any returns (queen ann?)or maybe the ends
of the trusses where you
turn the corner w/cornice. Maybe a shot
down the edge(cornice) to see how straight everything
is. Just so we can keep an eye on ya!!!!!! :->
This might be a stupid question but how do you do a stairway
thru your trusses? Your trusses are 2'oc and stairways are usually 3'wide.
The house I plan on building will be a 1 1/2 story 12/12 and was planning
on stick building the roof but might look at the possibility of trusses.
So your posting of this really will be interesting.
Dang it Butch....I almost shot a series of the "queen anns" as I was building them for the garage. I'm pretty sure we have another set to do up over the foyer so if I do, I'll make sure I get some pics.
I'll post a pic of the overhangs showing how straight or non-straight they are. After they get framed on the ground, they aren't going anywhere. We do have to make sure we adjust them for "up and down", but even that is now automatic because I make level cuts on the trusses.
We don't put too many stairways trhough trusses. The only time I can remember was putting a set through a garage up to some storage. I think the truss company just sent an extra one and we doulbed up both sides leaving a 42 " hole.
The truss guys will accomodate any stairs drawn on the plans.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
We don't put too many stairways trhough trusses
So if you don't do that how do you access this room that is
built into the truss that you are now showing? Or like you said double up
trusses on either side and fill in with stick frame?
What is the span of those trusses your showing with the room
built in?
Yeah, I'm with everyone else on this, keep those pictures coming,
you had a lot to this forum.
Edited 1/18/2005 4:56 am ET by butch
Butch, almost every "bonus room" built over the garage is accessed from the main floor. I'll snap a picture of the plans tomorrow.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue,
What'n'da world is 'table framing'?
Why is it good?
SamT
Stick around. You'll see.
Set up some sawhorses and cribbing, frame up one of your bigger walls (laying down on the horses and cribbing), sheathe it, don't cut out your openings. Now you've got your big flat "work table," right there at comfortable working height.
Use that big table as the workbench for making up every other wall in the house, and as each is finished, pick it off with your crane and set in in place on the house.
SamT, table framing is just what we call our "off the deck" framing. Gene is basically explaining it succintly. It's a great system for a spineless guy (me). It's just something that I started doing this year after watching another crew in another sub do it.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Okay, here we go.
This shot shows the back wall done, it isn't actually any truss work, but since SamT wondered about table framing, I thought I'd show the back wall sequence.
Both of these pics are the same, i just made one smaller for the dial up crowd.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Ben gets ready to receive the back wall. Frank is running the crane.
Oh, by the way, disregard the timestamp. These pics were takin today.
I still hate my camera.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
OOps, I forgot to attach the pics.
The two deck guys keep their own fire bucket going all day.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
They are tweaking the wall into its final resting place.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
The fit at the junction of the two back wall parts actually fits quite well.
even though the fit is nice, we'll still top it off with a shot of caulk or glue. After its painted, you won't be able to find it (I hope).
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Samt, this the the table framed wall. We didn't put any corner boards on the chimney box, because we didn't want to fight them in when we were setting it. IF this were a two story application, we'd put the trim on and fight it in. I'm a big fan of eliminating all tall ladder work.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Well, this is actually the truss section of the thread that I promised to post. The first thing we need to do is get the second strory truss work started which carries the rear floor joists. The design of this house is atrocious. It WILL be adjusted on any more built (this is a model).
I laminated the fourply. I had to nail the living squat out of it (4rows of nails, 4" oc on the bottom chord). We also had to install bolts 2' oc, which we don't have but we did drill for them.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Frank grabs the rest of the stack of trusses and sets them close to the garage where he will hook them and send them with the crane.
I've layed out about ten lacers. Heres a stack of them that I'll stack near the garage so they can grab them as needed. The studs will be used as toekicks as we lay the roof sheating. We only set two trusses at a time, but we don't cut the lacers shorter (I used to cut them into 25.5" blocks or 49.5" blocks) because we want them full length for kickers.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
While the other guys are setting the garage trusses, I'm supposed to be building the front gable, but I have a better idea...hug the fire!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
The gable that I'm building is just another truss. I'm not sure why the truss company does this, but it's a huge waste of money and it actually makes my job a bit harder. Not much, just a bit.
I've got a decision to make...one of those six of one, half dozen of the other type decision. My dilema is this: " do I frame the entire gable, then butt the flooring to it, or do I lay the flooring, then frame the wall on top of it?"
I opt for a combo....
Heres the gable. I've put the drywall backing on it underneath. I've layed the bottom plate of the wall in the open section of the truss.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
OOps, heres the pic.Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I've got the basic wall frame. I'll sheath it, then pull it out and set it aside.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I'm done sheathing it and I simply pull it out and set it aside. I'll cover the remaining parts of the gable, send it up, get the decking done, then slip the set aside wall into the opening.
The two biggest reasons for doing this is to make the floor sheathing operation easy and strong. The ply will solidly tie the front garage gable to the main house. Leaving the big opening will aid us in staging the plywood and other materials.
I could have left it all in one piece, but Frank asked for it this way, and I was too involved in my fire tending to argue.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Well, it was cold today and I didn't get much done, but that's alright, the garage gable will wait patently for me.
We'll fit the pine to lay about 3/4" above those queen ann returns. Most crews fanatically attach the gable in order to install the gable overhangs and get it exactly 3/4" over the returned roof. We don't have any trouble doing it our way, and we know that our system is cost effective because we don't spend any time bracing the gable to stand it and we streamline the garage building process by getting the three walls standing faster. Of course we will have to spend more time prepping the gable, but we'll do it while the floors are being sheathed and installed.
I'll snap a pic tomorrow showing how we get the pine to fit.
Thats it for today...another easy day, even though it was cold...about 5 degrees, which is warm if you live in Alaska!
Edit: The two pics are the same...one is shrunk for dial uppers.
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Edited 1/17/2005 9:40 pm ET by blue_eyed_devil
Blue,
Really cool pics! The crane and Skytrak really do make a lot of things possible that wouldn't be otherwise. Keep posting, I'm really enjoying this.
Mark
My pleasure Professor.
Thanks for the encouragement. It takes a bit of time to take the pics, change them, post em and write bout them and as long as someone wants them, I'll do it...or I could go do that 500 pc jigsaw puzzle!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
blue...
I must say that I really enjoy your pics as well as your ideas for getting things done... I would love to come and just observe you and your boys work...I could be your "fire keeper"...
"knowledge without experience is just information." Mark Twain
Charlie, I could use a good fire tender...as long as he doesn't hog too much of the space around it...because you should know by now I'm going to get my fire time!
I'm especially fired up for tomorrow. I got a new soup..Healthy Choice of course...with some mexican name...I'll give the soup report tomorrow.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Thanks, Blue.
Yeah, keep the pics flowing, this is an interesting story.
SamT
It's nice to see a differnt way of doing things. We don't get to see much variety here. And your right about it being warm compared to Alaska, 20 below here again today.
Blue,
Muchos gracias for posting those pics! I really enjoy it. This forum was about dead in my opinion as far as framing went until you came back. There is nothing I love more than seeing how other guys frame and seeing what I can "cop" from them. Keep them coming.
It's been just raining here, but hopefully tomorrow we'll get the floor on on the house we started last Thursday and then we have some big gable rake walls to frame. We'll probably use the forklift to lift them. We were going to side them with HardiShake before we lifted them, but then found out we will NOT be siding them yehaw
My pleasure Tim and congrats to you for avoiding the hardie siding job!
Were going to have a little bit of hardie to do ourselves and the east wall still has me somewhat concerned...I'll re-evaluate my strategy when I get the framework built.
Anyways, heres the finish on that front garage gable. Remember, the queen anns are already attached to the wall and now we're going to have to fit the prebuilt overhang to it.
It's actually pretty simple as you'll soon see.
This pic shows the gable already sheathed and papered...Frank beat me there this morning and got that part done.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Okay.....now here's the trick...which ain't anything special but I have been told "I don't know how you do that..." as if it's some big mystery. One contractor mentioned several times over the years "I wish I knew how to do that.....it would be a lot easier to send the gable up in two parts"...but he never stopped by to watch me do it or even asked if I'd show him!
First, I have to do some figuring. I have to calculate the height at which the queen anns hit the sheathing of the gable wall. Since it's 12/12 all the way around, and my overhangs on both walls are even...that calculation is easy...I didn't even have to pull out my calculator or my square. The height of the rafter line is equal to the HAP (we call it the heel).
So, I mark a line at that height and nail a coupla temp rafters to the wall.
blue
Note: the two pics are the sameJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Next, I "sheath the roof" with two layers of osb. The first layer represents the actual sheathing of the queen anns and the second layer is the 3/4" gap that I want for air circulation. I'll lay the overhang tight to the temporary sheathing and when it's set, somehow it magically transforms itself into 3/4" instead of the 7/16 that it starts out as.
Don't ask me why......I don't know, that's just what happens.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Now, I'm ready to start the installation of the overhang. First though, I have to re-position the gable on the table. There are two reasons: 1) I'll want both edges easily accessible from the edge...2)I want to be as close to the fire as possible because it's only about 5 degrees at this point!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Working at a nice cozy, comfortable height, I install the brick rack. Keep in mind that this brick rack is hanging into the gable opening where we will eventually fill it in with our "insert". The top chord of the gable is only a 2x6, but the 10.5" brick rack is firm enough to hang down without support.
I think I have a picture of the inside of the finished raw gable..i'll post it in a minute.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
At this point Frank came back and together we installed the rake assembly consisting of a 1x8 frieze (sub rake?), 1x8 soffit, crown mold, 1x6 rake on a 2x4 nailer), 1x2 brickmold. I was doing all the saw work, and I didn't have time to snap any pics...but here's the finished product flying away.
The second pic shows the back of the gable as it flys away. The paper is hanging into the opening enough to create a good lap.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Well, somehow or another the overhang actually looks like it fits!
It appears from this angle that I've achieved the 3/4" gap above the queen ann return that I was shooting for. I've had many occasions when the gap was something less than desireable. In those cases I've employed a wide variety of fixes..the most common of which is to simply cut the parts back and piece in new parts that actually fit well to the roof! A fix like that will only take 15 minutes of so, so the relative risk of building gables like this is miniscule. On some occasions, I've had to laminate the queen ann with another layer of osb to reduce the gap. That fix only take 5 minutes total for both!
I'll get some pics of the gable when we slip in the insert.
I didn't get too much more done today...I did hug the fire for a very long time. I managed to layout and frame all the octogon walls and I'll be assembling them, along with one girder truss and the roof that connects to it tomorrow. I promise to get there earlier and work a little more dilligently...maybe....
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I do interior (urban) remodeling and I love these framing threads. Thanks and keep 'em coming!
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.- Fyodor Dostoyevski
Thanks fn...I'll keep them coming. I know a little about urban remodeling and I feel very, very sorry for you...unless you like doing that sort of thing. If you do like it, I'll submit your name for canonization when they want a new list of saints.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue, I really love seein' how the "bones" of a house go together. Nice to see a lifetime of techniche shared, too. Thanks for taking the time.Glad to see you got your fire barrels back<G> Ray finally got the heat crankin' in that sips house (the one with the dog food loving rodentia)...and then it goes and snows today! Had to leave early, people crossways on the roads, dang southerners,ha, ha, ha... Don't worry, we can fix that later!
Well goll dang...my daughter told us it was snowing in Greensboro..but now that I look at your pictures I know she was lieing!
Its funny, but I was trying to remember Ray's name...I was mad at myself for forgetting it...I've been making a special effort to remember everyone's name! Give Ray my regards!
When I was posting the picture of the attached chimney, I thought of our conversation on the rear of that deck when I explained how we would go about installing all the siding on the chimney projection. I think this thread gives you a better idea of what I was talking about, but I think you'll like the planned gable better.
We had a snow day our selves today. The roads were so bad I turned back after ten miles.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Could you explain this in more detail? I am doing a truss roof in the spring and any info would be very helpful. The pitch is 9/12. So if you layed it out for 12/12. I could converted and understanding. Thanks for the great photos.
Bhackford, I think the question you have is directed toward the placement of the queen ann hip return ridge.
To better understand what I'm doing, you probably should relook at these two pictures:
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/at.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&guid=7BE473D5-2E88-41AD-8E00-B4D03B9C3F87&frames=no which shows the wall with the hip returns already built
and http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/at.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&guid=A4FA5DBC-CD78-46FB-BA1B-3865C94FE4B8&frames=no which shows a snapped line that represents the height that the hip returns would hit when the gable is set up against the already built hip returns.
I'll be building some more hip returns before this house is completed and I'll take some pictures and do an expose' on it.
It doesn't matter what the pitches are of the roofs..it all can be calculated and established, in theory, to facilitate this system of installing gables and their trim.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
blue,
i'm enjoying your latest series and just want to know a little more about your crane.
we rent skytraks for our bigger homes. and sometimes call in a crane service for big wall lifts.
but i wonder how cost efficient it is to have your own crane?
mike
Mike, every time I calculated the costs associated with a crane, it always comes up a loser. That's why I bought a junker instead of a real crane.
The junker still has insurance costs but the convenience cannot be overllooked. It's just nice to have the luxury of having two pieces of equipment.
If I had to choose, I'd choose to keep only the Sky trak because I can more easily rent a crane for an hour or two.
I'm curious though, why can't you raise the big walls with your Lift? The only reason that I can think of is you cant access the area near the wall. IN those cases, you'd probably know that the grade would cause extra expenses and it's usually easy to justify an extra $500 on the bid to compensate for the irregular grade.
If you're building walls too big, you maybe should rethink your tactix.
Also, get a jib. Lifts are so much easier to use on trusswork and wall raising when you have a 12 or 15' boom attached.
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
the last job we did, i had a 12' jib on a skytrak. That made setting 33' long 14" micro hips a breeze.
as far as walls to big for the skytrak, yes it usually just comes down to space needed to run the machine, too many of the homes we do are pinned in between building lines with no side yard. e.g. tear down an existing 40 year old home and put a bloated mansion in its place.
i'm trying to figure out how to keep a skytrak around full time, it seems that rental works out similar to a good laborer ( cost wise) but it works so much harder with no complaining : )
mike
Mike, I watched a guy with a Skytrak 10054, set the entire house from the front, with a 15' jib.
The reach that the bigger unit has is huge. He table frames everything and dangles the stuff while he rolls down the street. He's crazy like a fox.
We started out by renting to see if we really wanted to use one. It does in fact replace at least one man, maybe two. When you really break down the cost vs the gain, it's a no brainer to keep one full time, either buying it or renting it month to month. I'm still not sure which idea is better but I bought a new one this year and I'd never think of working without one again. I'd simply pass on jobs that couldn't accomodate one.
IF you rethink your building process and use the 54' boom and a 15' jib, I'm sure you could stand up everything on those houses unless they are more than 60' deep!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
MILKBONE CHALLENGE!
Every time I build anything, I always self analyze every aspect of the process. I just posted a small series on a particular gable framing technique and I'm sorry to say I missed the boat big time on this one.
I've re-thought the entire process and have come up with a much faster, better, safer, method.
To rehash the issues, I wanted to be able to run the plywood under the wall, to avoid the hassle of butting it to the gable framing. I wanted to pre frame all the overhangs. I wanted to have access with materials with the skytrak.
I have a lot of wants...and now I have a better solution.
Its such a simple solution I can't believe I didn't think of it when Frank told me what he wanted on this wall.
Premium milkbones to the closest guesser!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
That's easy, you hire a young guy like me and learn a few tricks!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAH
I just walked in (5:30 here) and I'm beat. It was 63° today and set a record. I was in my shorts and loving it. Somehow I ended up with about 10 mosquito bites :-( Back to the rain tomorrow.
Good grief I'm jealous. I coulda had some frostbites...but I'd rather have some mosquito bites.
Have fun tomorrow in the slop.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue,
My hat’s off to you!
It takes a keen understanding and a lot of confidence to tackle jobs like that. I’m very impressed by the work, the tech, and the presentation.
How do you do it? (a rhetorical question obviously) =)
Straight forward, No nonsense, High tech framing!
Great job and Great Posts!
Mr Jalp
Well thank you very much Mr Jalapeno for those kind words.
I hope you win the milkbone challenge!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue,
<!----><!---->
Woof!
<!---->
We used to just set the gable truss out the thickness of the plywood siding and lap the siding from the truss to the wall. Gable would be finished including barges and soffit. We would do it all on top since we didn’t have machinery to help lift.
<!---->
Mr Jalp
<!---->
<!---->
Sorry Mr Jalapeno...no milkbones for that answer.
My solution is actually very simple and I've done it hundreds of times...for some reason, I just got caught up in Frank's thinking and forgot to do my own!
I should have simply built a full 4" wall using the last truss as a pattern. Then, send the last truss upand set it on the inside of the gable wall. After they are done laying the floor and stocking the materials...whatever they need, I could simply send in the 4'' "new" gable, with all the pine on it.
I've done this a ton of time, but somehow I just got caught mimicking something we did on the last bonus room that we built. The situations were much different and the last job made sense..this one doesn't.
Oh well, I'm already done....
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue,
Can you elucidate? I don't understand that last post to Mr. Jalp.
Off to work. Should be pretty decent today. 55° and no rain.
I sure can "elucidate"...if I ever figure out what that means!
Basically, I was telling MR Jap that I shoulda built the entire gable myself, starting from scratch. I could have used the gable that was sent, and fitted an entire new 4" wall on top of it.
Then, I would send the truss up and set it next to the wall on the inside of the garage....it would act as drywall backing as well as the lat framing member that the floor is nailed to.
Then later, when it is deemed okay to cover the ,opening (which I never understood why we needed it anyways), I would simply send in the 4" new gable wall that I had framed, sheathed and overhanged and set it next to the last truss (the one that is the backing and floor holder) and vilola...the roof would be ready for sheathing!
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I think I get it. It was in the mid 60's today and I was in shorts again. I just can't believe that it was so nice. Hope you stayed warm :-)
So we took pics today at the end of the day. Next time there is a thread about why west coaster use worms, I"m going to say "Because we are Men!"
Me http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/6234797/82008109.jpg
Jasen http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/6234797/82008099.jpg
I think I can see the hidden wires!
Seriously, I'd have to retire if I had to lift one of those all day.
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I forgot to mention that I forgot my camera today.
A big snow is coming, so I doubt I'll go in tomorrow. Monday will be soon enough.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Back to the grind...
Heres a shot of all the octogon walls already sheathed, ready to assemble. I never actually got to the truss today that sets on them, but it is coming...I promise.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
After a brief discussion with Frank, we both agreed that it would be better to assemble the walls on the deck so that we will tip the contraption up, rather than flying it with the crane. We'll have to tip it, then slide it about 2' to the east to get it into it's final resting place.
After we assembled the walls, and papered them, I started putting on the overhang system. This pic show the brick rack on, ready for the frieze.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Once again, we didn't do too much today. The short days and lots of firetime don't make for a very productive day. I think I managed about 3.5 hours and Frank never rolled out his saw or nailgun....but he did help me assemble this mess. He's flying to Florida tomorrow and I'm jealous.
I'll have to do some truss studying to understand how/where the girder that sits over this octogon sits and I plan on installing all the roof before I tilt it. The tilting process has me thinking.....it'll want to tilt up in a weird way and that will be the biggest challenge..keep it from rolling and twisting.
Today wasn't all bad...I got my truck back from the dealer. This time it was the crankshaft sensor.....$145!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!