I just got a contract signed for a timberframe sunroom (18 x 20). I did the design, got it engineered, and got a permit. I’ve done plenty of timberframe facades for entries, gable ends, cielings etc; but this is the first real one I’ll build using all traditional joinery. I know some guys throw up the frame and then add their knee braces by letting them in with a halflap dovetail or some similar joint. That method simplifies the layout and raising, but I’d rather do it the traditional way with concealed mortice and tenons pegged. I guess as a modern carpenter I’m just a little nervous about cutting out a whole frame and expecting every piece to fit perfectly. If anyone has some helpful advice about the whole process I’d appreciate it.
Thanks Josh.
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until Frenchy replies
are you familar with Ted Benson's work?
bobl Volo, non valeo
I had similar concerns with the first few I did myself instead of "for" someone,the boss....
I gave myself some peace of mind with drawing evrything full scale and double and even triple checking EVERYTHING, .......and review your geometry, math and actual.
Cheers,Phil.
P.S. ...where y'at?
If it is to be.... 'twil be done by me.
Edited 6/7/2004 10:45 am ET by Philter
Hi Sunny,
Both methods will work..
If you precut all of your timbers you have to make absolutely certain that everything you work from is square level and true. perfectly square level and true!
100% square level and true..
I really mean it, Absolutely positively 100% square level and true!
A really talented and experianced timberframer can make minor field adjustments at the cost of some increase in gaps. I learned that just about anybody can do the traditional mortice and tenion work that a timberframe needs, (look at me) But it's the real artist who does beautiful brace work..
In my experiance you have to be on site to do that work.. The timber that should have been square and true, twists a bit and suddenly nothing fits. Or the base you build on is off just a hair and nothing works or fits.
My question is why don't you do the work yourself? Sawmill will sell you timbers for a fraction of what a frame comapny will and the only thing left is your work.. If you work as a carpenter you are way better than me. (I'm a 55 year old fat and out of shape salesman).
All you need is the tools and the time.. Tools aren't really that expensive and can be sold when you are finished for about 70% of their original cost. The knowledge comes from books and maybe a video (I haven't ever seen one, or been to a jobsite where they are building a timberframe yet my place is coming together OK)
One design point that I would make. Sure go ahead and use tradional pegged timbers, but back them up with a steel fastener. (lag bolt or steel pin) cover the steel up by recessing it and putting false pegs over it. Or put the lag bolt/pin in from the back (hidden) side.
The reason is in the event of fire. Tradional pegged joinery fails rather quickly. In Europe where timberframing is big, they are required to do that and it doesn't detract from the apperance at all!
Do you have or can you get access to a space large enough to machine the parts and test-fit them before they go to the job? I've done some timber work and it's always been on-site where we can put things together, check fit, take them apart, make adjustments, etc. I don't think I'd go too far before checking fit. A lot like building a chair, only it's much bigger!