Replies

1. 
   kklinger | Mar 23, 2005 05:36am | #1

   just did my log home we used tearaway bead glued to the rock with spray adheasive   we will paint and then pull the tearaway strip off for a clean edge  against the logs . It seems  to have worked well ,1/8 to 1/4 sounds    right         

1. 
   evj | Mar 23, 2005 07:24pm | #3

   Thanks for your reply, sounds like a good plan. Can you tell me who manufactures tearaway bead, I'm having a hard time finding it.

1. 
   kklinger | Mar 24, 2005 05:45am | #7

   The tear away bead is a more commerical used product.  I can't remember the name of the manufacture off the top of my head.  I will check and get back.  How long has the timber frame been up?  Were the timbers klin dried? This will determine how much shrinkage you will get.

   With our log home,  some areas against the log where there will be movement between the drywall we will be using white chinking which is paintable.  This can be an option between the tearaway and the wood should the timbers shrink excessively.

1. 
   evj | Mar 24, 2005 06:01am | #8

   Thanks again for your reply. This has been the frames first winter it was built in the summer and made weather tight in the fall, I wouldn't have thought the timbers were kiln dried but I can check with the Great Lakes who was the builder, what allowance would you reccomend in either case?

2. 
   hammer1 | Mar 23, 2005 07:23am | #2

   I just been working on a timberframe. The beams have shrunk a good 1/2" over the winter. Some customers may want to fill the gaps when it comes re-painting time down the road. Many never bother. A channel will make it quite difficult. On the several that I have done, the tapers just flat tape. Timber frames can be deceiving for tapers. Usually there aren't many ceilings to do. Every taper looks at them like they will be easy. Once you start trying to tape in those small areas around braces and up against an irregular beam surface, it is a very different story. If you have never done one before, you'd better think hard about your price. Most tapers blow through an ordinary house in a week. I've had them take over a month on some timberframes, and longer. A smart builder will use SIPS or leave a space behind the beams on exterior walls for the drywall. You still have to deal with all the interior partitions which usually butt to the beams on both sides. If you also have to butt to the exterior wall beams, you've got some serious labor ahead.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   evj | Mar 23, 2005 07:27pm | #4

   Thanks for your insight, I had thought the taping would be easier than a conventional house but it sounds like you're probably right.

3. 
   frenchy | Mar 23, 2005 09:24pm | #5

   Too late now but what I did was apply the sheetrock to the SIPs as they went up. then made sure the joints were behind my timbers...

1. 
   eldereldo | Mar 23, 2005 11:32pm | #6

   I'm with Frenchy, Drywall on the Sip panels before you put them up.

    The other thing I did for ceilings in the area under my loft was use strips of 1/2 OSB on top of the timbers before putting the joists on top, that way I can slip the tapered end of the drywall over the timber and under the joists when I rock the celings.

    

   RobertRobert

4. 
   byrnesie | Mar 24, 2005 06:02am | #9

   How about a 3/4 Scotia moulding brad shot to the beam- I've done them prestained after the painting on the rock was done.