How does a vacuum breaker work on a water line? I was told this is what I need to filter sediment out of the water line so my Toto toilet wont slow up.
Opinions?
How does a vacuum breaker work on a water line? I was told this is what I need to filter sediment out of the water line so my Toto toilet wont slow up.
Opinions?
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Replies
What the H*LL!!!!
A vacuum breaker is basically a check valve between the water supply and the air. It normally has a slight spring pressure on it.
But if water pressure is lost and tries to syphon out water it will open and allow air in.
They are common on new frostproof facuets. They are the little round part above the hose connection.
It does not remove anything from the water.
Whoever suggested this has WAY too low of water pressure in his brain.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill you might be wrong on this one, they may have too much water pressure on the brain (;-)
Thanks for the correction. I think that you are right..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
actually, they might be right, they're probably thinking if the line is "banging" (no vac breaker) it is shaking the sediments in the pipe loose ..
A vacuum breaker won't do a damm thing for water hammer..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill's not normally like that.
Must be having a rough day.
be rough and readyPeace out.
Your guys are funny.
If this "tip" isn't right what is? I just want to sediment that breaks loose in the pipes not to slow down the water filling up in the toilet.
Suggestions?
What kind of water (quality)do you have? What kind of pipeing?Why do you think that you would have "stuff breaking loose"?What about all of the other fixtures in house?Why do you think that this would be a problem?.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
We are not considered to have hard water here in Chicago
We have just installed all new copper piping throughout the house except for the 10ft drop in the quest bath that has the problem. We were able to clean the filter in the vanity faucet and it runs well now but still in the last 4 months we have had to do this twice.
I know I should have had them tear the wall out to change the pipe but such is life. Not a good choice. But now I want to back fluch the unit and try to stop this from happening anymore by using a filter if possible.
Off hand I don't know of any kind of "filter" that would be good for this. Probably a clear bowl with a screen, like used to be used on small gas engines whould be the best. You don't really need filtering.Most filters are designed for fairly samll particals and need replacing every few months.Pure speculation, but I would not be surprised if all of the junk was broken loose during construction and by now, or at least in a few months you can gotten all of it at the vanity.Don't know about the Toto, but the with Fluid Masters you can remove the top fo the fill valve and holding a cup over the to top flush it out..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill and bigbossman,
Had a problem with my Kohler and lots of sediment. It didn't stop it from filling or make it fill slow. What it does is keeps it from shutting off when it's full. Taking the top of the fill valve off and cleaning the gasket and filter corrected it like Bill said. Putting the house filter on "filter" instead of standby like I had done ( duh ) stopped the problem from recurring.
are you thinking an anti-siphon gizmo???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
The vacuum breaker is used for anti-siphoning when used on a water supply side.When the similar device is installed on a drain line in lieu of venting it is called an air admitance devices.Here are vacuum breakers used on irragation systems, the latter is part of the sprinker valve.http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-27442/Detailhttp://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp/P_ID/149193http://www.sealhardware.com/detail.asp?sku=2850469Here is a frostproof faucet with VB.http://www.aymcdonald.com/ProdList_Plumbing.cfm?getgroup=15&sendCat=3A VB on water supply normally does not open. Only used in conditions of loss of water pressure which might lead to back flow (siphoning).The air admitance valve, on the other hand, is needed for normal operation of a drain system without other venting..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
whew...
got it....
thanks...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
At onetime you could get both regular and antisiphon Fluid Master fill valves. Now I think that they only have the anti-siphon verision (or that is all the locals handle).The tank is isolated from the bowl, so there is no problem with contamination from that source. But the little blue sailer in the tank could be drawn back into the water supply if you loose pressure.Don't know how that is handle on the OEM fill valves. But that is up to the NSF or other certification agencies..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I believe the shower massage I put in my daughter's shower has a vb. , either it has a serious problem or has that feature. When you pull the divertor you hear a strange gurgle and get a slight burp of water out of the plastic transition from the pipe from the drop-ear to the hose.
I can see where on a water outage and full bathtub, one could siphon but normally the divertor would drop out on most I have encountered.
You correct as usual. A lot of the cheapie toilet fill valves I have installed have a small strainer on the supply. If the much revered Toto is overly sensitive to sediment I would go for some filtration.
That is a potential problem with the showers on a hose system.More and More utility companies are now installing "check valves" at the meter or main tap for the same reasons..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
vacuum breaker goes on the drain line...
a hammer resistor goes on the water line...
you want a water filter....
and it's too late now for that.....
flush the line before you hook it up...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Toto uses the Korky or Lavelle flush valve, and it can be prone to clogging and having a slow fill with a bunch of delays and wierd sounds afterward. This happens from time to time in my old (70 years) house with galvanized piping to the bathroom. It's also why I have to clean the lav aerator once a month. Anyone with a Toto and Korky in an old house should find and buy a few replacement valves. They take about five minutes to replace and are well worth it for what I consider to be superior toilet performance from the Toto.
Edited 1/8/2008 8:56 pm ET by BARMIL
Not sure I see where flush and fill are coming together here. The Korky flappers I am familiar with are the flush flappers. The fill valves will cause a slow fill if clogged, will not shut off if trigger (float, etc ) does not tell it to, a leaking flush will create a leak which will cause cause a continuous or intemittent fill/run.
Sediment as discussed could damage the seat for fill shutoff but normally would be be flushed over the flush valve/flapper seat.
I was taught that when you take the fill valve apart to change the washer you put your hand over it and turn on the water briefly to flush out anything in the line that is nearby and to heavy to be lifted with the toilet in normal use. When you have it apart and you turn it on alot of water comes out. Then check in the valve to see if anything is sitting in there before you put on the new washer.
Agree, but what I tried to say was that any crud that was in the tank/line should wash over the flush valve (flapper,etc), not talking about the fill valve.
Crud caught in the fill valve by not doing what you described could cause a non-shutoff of the fill valve.