I am replacing the back porch decks in a three-flat. The T&G deck boards have buckled (pressed together and up) in several places.
The decks are roughly 8′ x 14′.
I’d planned to replace them with 1/8″ spaced decking, but concerns about having a solid “roof” above (this is Chicago), have brought me back to T&G. Unfortunately, I’ve never worked with T&G before.
I would appreciate learning any useful tips and techniques anyone would care to share. I’m especially concerned about preventing the buckling. Do I need to use different screws, apply additional preservative to the tongues or grooves or both, etc.?
Thank you.
Neal
P.S. Does anyone know how to contact Scott Grove at Effective Design (Rochester, NY), author of those articles on decks?
Replies
Sounds like the original material got wet and expanded, was not finished on the back, or was installed too tightly between the walls.... or maybe all three.
You don't need special fasteners. You could use galvanized finish nails, or galvanized 1/4"-crown staples in a pneumatic gun You could also rent a t&g floor nailer, but I think you want galv fasteners. The key to it is to not install it perfectly tightly. Allow tiny gaps during installation. They will close during damp periods and open during dry periods. It's good to prime the material all the way around before installing, including in the grooves. Don't get sloppy with the paint or they won't be as easy to fit.
Across the grain leave maybe 1/2" gap at the walls and then install a baseboard to cover. Your floor may expand up to 1/8" per foot during damp periods.
Is this a three story tall with each deck acting as the roof for the one under it, save the last at top? Or all three open to the weather on ground level more or less?
in general, it is better to use open spaced square edged stock for decks open to weather, bu there are techniques to help.
Pre prime/seal all surfaces before installation so the absorption of moisture is minimal. Then keeep it oiled once installed. Forget Thompson's. It is a weal wax base that lasts six months max.
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<<Is this a three story tall with each deck acting as the roof for the one under it, save the last at top?>>
Yes. Though, the top deck is sheltered by the underside of the attic, which extends to the outside edge of the deck and forms the "ceiling" for the third floor porch. So all three floors are covered.
<<in general, it is better to use open spaced square edged stock for decks open to weather...>>
That's where I was headed until I realized that the open spacing would eliminate the weather protection for the floors below.
<<Pre prime/seal all surfaces before installation so the absorption of moisture is minimal. Then keeep it oiled once installed. Forget Thompson's. It is a weal wax base that lasts six months max.>>
Would that apply for pressure treated T&G decking? Or is there a more effective lumber type/sealant combination (we also have ice, snow and tracked salt to contend with here)? Since Thompson's is off the list, what would be good to use (either brand name or ingredients)?
I am grateful to the members of this forum for being so generous with their experience and expertise.
Neal
Do not use PT t&g decking! PT moves way to much, checks and cracks and looks like hell in short order. I am a firm believer that PT should only be used in framing and not on decorative surface details. Look instead at fir, cambera, or mahogany for your decking.
Penofin treatment for wood.
Don't waste my time puttiong down PT decking. The list of troubles you get from it is way too long. PT is for framing, not finish
Fir is traditional in this type of job. New composites Like Tendura would be worth looking into for good quality and less maintainace.
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penofin sealer, backprime all unexposed surfaces first, inc t&g joints AND tops of joists prior to install soak the end grain edges and finish surface after install like other posts said, use t&g doug fir, or clear vertical grain (cvg) both come in long lengths, so avoid seams, run ea course one piece of stock fasten w 2" pneumatic flooring staples, spend the money on stainless steel if necessary to face nail anywhere, get at least 2" stainless finish nails for pneumatic finish gun, fill countersunk holes and seal surface cupped because water got to it,these floors last forever if they receive periodic maintenance if the joists look crappy or undersized, sister or replace them i find 2x4's on these porches a lot, lumber must have been expensive back then might cover top surface of joists w a strip of roof felt or ice/water shield wider than the surface prior to applying floor, especially if you're doubling them up
Certainteed makes a tongue and groove composite material called "Boardwalk" that comes in lengths up to 16'. It attaches to the joists with special clips so there are no visible fasteners. Comes in colors and is superior in appearance to other composites. Good application when you have a triple decker. Best of luck.
Jeff