Folks,
Got a good protocol for fixing top rot on exposed beams?
Have some rot work orders at this condo complex where they installed 4×8 rough sawn posts and beams over the tiny patios as a decorative accent.
Of course, the stuff weathers, cracks and makes nice condos for rot, mostly along the top of the beams. The fruiting bodies of the fungus were like a red flag to the building inspector. Not an inch of flashing on any of this. Flashing? What for? (Well, it would be cheaper than us.)
We need get a good fix dialed because there are about 200+ of these and they are all going to do this – or do termites or both. Nothing structural – the beams just hold themselves up.
I am thinking along the lines of cutting out the bad spots, splicing in a pice of new set in expoy and going from there. That avoids fiddling with the stucco end. A number of these spots are out on the beam. One is at the wall. If the rot is at the stucco boundary, I’d pull the whole stick.
The ToolBear
“Never met a man who couldn’t teach me something.” Anon.
Replies
i'd probably use West System with micro balloons for filler
and if you don't want to come back..
i'd make an alum. cap for each one... maybe in musket brown
Yes, I like the WEST system and the metered pumps. Have them for my boat repairs.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
West's micro balloons make and excellent paste..
and the aluminum cap would prevent ultraviolet degradation and further wettingMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
i'd probably use West System with micro balloons for filler (Mike Smith)Yes, we used that with the special pumps and filler to fix some boat rot and set a Teak Deck in place.
West System is great stuff and I have used it on many boat projects but IMHO System Three makes a superior product for this application. Take a look at <http://www.systemthree.com/mws_wood_restoration.asp>. Keep in mind you don't have to buy their kits, individual components are available in large amounts such as 10 gal. of Sculpt Wood putty.I have used this product line for repairing window sills and found it to be better because the resin absorbs in to the wood more readily and the putty is quicker to mix and easier to work with. With West System there is a bunch fussing to work out a good mixture of resin plus fillers. Also unlike West System the System Three resin doesn't form an amine blush that has to be removed before finish coatings can be applied.Keep in mind that most of these epoxies will degrade when exposed to UV light so paint or good quality varnish is nessecary to protect your repair.
renoun.. thanks for the info.. i bookmarked system 3..
we've used Abatron in the past also.. another specialty epoxy
the alum. cap flash would take care of the ultra-violet degradationMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Check into a fungicide to kill the rot thats already there before doing anything else. Boracare or a fungicide with Disodium Octaborate Tetrahydrate will kill fungus and termites.
Edited 4/1/2006 8:15 am ET by MarkH
It would be handy to treat the area. It if remains unflashed, I expect it to happen again - or the other beams will develop it.
Any idea how these compounds react to the expoy I am considering using to glue the patch in?
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Not sure about compatibility, but suspect it would not cause a problem, contact the epoxy manufacturer to be sure. I also got to thinking that the condo dwellers may be reluctant to having treated timbers over their patios, even it it is non toxic to humans. Would go for the flashing for sure, if they will spring for it.