Well, hello.
I have been asking about generator, and thank you all for the answers, and here I am asking another one.
Generator is 3000 watt, 120v only.
I got APC automatic transfer switch that the store assured me will work with 120v generator. They also referred me to an electrician.
So far so good until I looked at the switch and it covers only 4 120v circuits and 2 other connections are for 240v purposes.
1. a circuit for two boiler pump motors……..1 switch connection
2 a circuit for a refrigerator…….1 switch connection
3. a circuit for lights for two bathrooms.
4. a circuit for bedroom #1 light and computer………..1 switch connection (this will take circuits 3 & 4)
5. a circuit for bedroom #2 light and a tv (CRT).
6. a circuit for livingroom light and tv (CRT)……..1 switch connection (this will take circuits 5 & 6)
The store owner tells me that 2 circuits (as long as just light and tv) can be connected to one connector in the transfer switch.
The electrician had seen the set up and did not mention anything.
Is it ok to double up the circuit in the transfer switch? Will this put 2 main panel circuits under one breaker?
I can still exchange 120v generator for 240v generator. Is it that much less headache with 240v generator?
Thank you.
Replies
Things could possibly work out, but it takes someone knowledgeable "on the ground" to look at it and figure it out.
No. Don't even try. The only way to use that generator is with extension cords. period.
Try tying it into your panel and the best that can happen is an overloaded neutral. There are numerous code violations, including the lack of automatic load shedding. The generator is simply inappropriate.
Is there really anything so critical that it can't wait the few minits it would take to run an extension cord?
There's a modest difference between "tying it into your panel" and using a multi-circuit transfer panel.
There are two different types of transfer switches, and this may be confusing some people. The old "traditional" whole-house type transfers the entire main breaker panel from line to generator. The multi-circuit transfer panel, on the other hand, transfers several individual circuits from main panel to generator.
The whole-house type should not be used with a 120v generator. The multi-circuit type, on the other hand, can often be used with a 120v generator, if properly set up. The problem is getting the right setup -- it requires a sufficiently large generator, a transfer panel with a capacity for a sufficient number of 120v circuits (and with a sufficiently heavy neutral bus), and someone to install it all who knows what the hell he'd doing.
Good idea trading generators for a house backup. But I think I would have kept the original one too because it's the best of its type, it's sweet.
Not to be condescending, but the OP is trying to write Shakespere- and he hasn't even mastered the alphabet yet.
The generator will provide at most about 25 amps. This means there's not enough power there for more than two circuits- and that's pushing things. The OP has not done any calculations of the loads he wants to power, or what else might be on the circuits. The fridge alone will need half of that to run- and nearly all of it to start.
The OP clearly does not realize that not all 120 volt circuits are the 'same' 120 volts. While each may measure 120 volts to ground, between each other they might very well measure 240 volts. So, he's trying to tie a 120 volt switch into a 240 volt system- even if the individual circuits are all '120 volt' circuits.
Compare your power company supply to a pair of shoes; that generator only gives you the left shoe. Left shoes don't belong on right feet.
Under certain circumstances, two circuits may 'share' a neutral wire. When this is done, there MUST be 240 volts between the two circuits. Since there's no way to do that with a 120 volt-only generator, it follows that the neutrals might be asked to carry more current than they are sized to carry. That means trouble.
The OP has not determined that all the circuits he wishes to feed are from the 'same leg' of his service. This means it is very possible that the transfer switch will see 240 volts on the 'power company' side - something for which the transfer switch is not designed.
Given the size of the generator, and its' portable nature, I stand fast with my advice to forget about the transfer switch, and to run extension cords direct to the loads- and to never, ever, tie the generator into the house feed in any manner. That means table lamps, rather than the built in ones. That means a cord & plug on the pumps, rather than 'hard wiring.'
I'll repeat that: DO NOT tie the genny into the house wiring. Sure, some jackalope will show you some way to cobble something together .... but there's only one word for that: dangerous.
A final word about generators, especially of the 3000 watt kind: There are $300 generators and $3000 generators. There are reasons for the difference in prices. If you're getting the cheap one, don't plug anything electronic into them. For that matter, don't tie them into the household power, either; cheap generators have very poor voltage regulation, and are fit only for powering old-fashioned light bulbs, space heaters, and motors.
There is no danger at all if the generator is properly connected to the house panel. Anyway, he has the 240 volt generator now, so all is good.
Under certain circumstances, two circuits may 'share' a neutral wire. When this is done, there MUST be 240 volts between the two circuits. Since there's no way to do that with a 120 volt-only generator, it follows that the neutrals might be asked to carry more current than they are sized to carry. That means trouble.
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Thank you renosteinke! 2 thumbs up! This is very clear explanation of the shared neutral. This forum, some articles and the fact that electricians around here did not like the 120v generator set up made me give up the 120v generator. The store took the generator back, and I ordered honda 5000 watt 120/240v generator. This will be connected to manual transfer switch next to the service panel. I am looking at emergen transfer switch.
What renosteinke said was true. The 110v generator you had did not have enough power to cause a problem like that, unless it was only powering one shared neutral circuit, where it possibly could have applied 23 or so amps on the neutral wire. If the circuit had 14ga wiring, you would have a real problem, and 12ga wiring would have been overloaded also.
My main objection was that the generator was underpowered to run a whole house, and it would trip off easily. Also that it was not 240v for the above reasons and the fact that no 240v appliance would work. I don't expect that 5000 watts will run many 240v appliances but it is possible to run a stove burner. This generator will not provide as many amps on either 120v leg as the other one so you will have to be careful to avoid overloading it too. That is because it is 2500 watts rated per leg, the other was 3000 watts total.
Not to be condescending, but
duplicate post deleted.