We’re building new, but would like to implement allot of the arts & crafts / bungalow details such as a fireplace inglenook, tapered columns and transom windows. We’re not sure if the transom windows fit that period or not, but both my wife and I like the look and we think they will look great trimmed in stain-grade.
The question is, does anyone have any idea as to guidelines for sizing them? Do the wood door and window manufacturers make them in standard sizes?, or do I have to make these myself.
As far as rough openings, we have 9 foot cielings and I’m putting the door headers right up to the double plate without cripples. I’ll be able to curtain wall down to the transoms wherever they end up.
As for hardware, anyone know of a source for the catch locks, plates, chain and the pole to pull them open with?
And a final question, should the transoms open into the room or out?
Thanks everyone!
Jim
Replies
All of the big outfits offer fixed transoms to match their "regular" windows. Finding operable transoms, though seems less easy.
Now, the big window outfits will build just about anything you want, so you might need a combo of the lower window unit and an awning unit over that.
Now, tip-in versus tip-out. I'd be inclined to tip in, as that puts the screen outside to match the other windows. But that also means the sash doesn't seal against the frame--so there's a trade off there.
For over interior door transoms, they should tip "into" the room--that puts the latch on the same side as a privacy latch, and for the same reasons. Now, to get light into a hall, the transoms really have to be in that "magic" 12' of natural light, and that includes overhangs.
Otherwise, you can have an exquisitely detailed, very tall ceilinging hall that's still dark.
We're building new, but would like to implement allot of the arts & crafts / bungalow details such as a fireplace inglenook, tapered columns and transom windows. We're not sure if the transom windows fit that period or not, but both my wife and I like the look and we think they will look great trimmed in stain-grade.
The question is, does anyone have any idea as to guidelines for sizing them? Do the wood door and window manufacturers make them in standard sizes?, or do I have to make these myself.
Typically, you use the manufacturer's matching awning window above the unit in question, whether it is a casement or double hung or whatever. If you look in the photos from Marvin's website in the link below, I think photo #16 has something like what you are looking for.
http://homeowner.marvin.com/products/product.cfm?view=gallery&oid=BCE9E517-FE87-427F-83E3519B3B734C4A
As far as rough openings, we have 9 foot cielings and I'm putting the door headers right up to the double plate without cripples. I'll be able to curtain wall down to the transoms wherever they end up.
As for hardware, anyone know of a source for the catch locks, plates, chain and the pole to pull them open with?
Just use the manufacturer's hardware that comes with the window. Do you really need all of them to open ? This adds additional cost to have the window open. It could be a stationary picture unit. Units that are very high could be done with motorized operators, although this gets pricey as well.
And a final question, should the transoms open into the room or out?
Out Out and again Out. Operating transoms that swing in are typically referred as hopper windows. Hoppers have lost popularity in residential applications over the years. Inswing windows have no benefit over outswings. All casements installed today are outswings. Keep the same for your transoms.
If you like the old style look of the push-out casements or awning windows, have a look at Loewen. They make such a product with an inswing wood framed screen that is just beautiful.
http://www.loewen.com/home.nsf/windows/pushoutcasement
Thanks everyone!
you're welcome.
carpenter in transition