Thought it would be cool to have a trick of the day thread.
probably been done already , but I haven’t seen one, and not much luck with search.
so if this is a been there done dat, my apoligies.
Basically, if you ever had a light bulb go one for a tip or trick that made what you were doing easier. something that made you say now why didn’t I think of that before. ( like the tips sectiopn in FHB) Then it would be cool to hear about it.
I recently had to hang a bunch of interior doors, as a framer, hanging doors is something I’ve only done on occasion with the odd non framing job. The probelm I’ve aways had was when shimming the bottom of the side jambs maintaining pressure while setting the shims and plumbing at the same time.
Now I’m sure this not a problem for most and not that it has actually been a problem, but just a little more tedious than I’d like. but, I thought, hey I’ll cut a stick the same width as the inside lengh of the head jamb and stick it in the bottom to give some resitance while shimming.
worked great! as I set the one side the other side set itself, and the resistance made it easier to set the shims. much easier than setting both sides indivually, while tring to maintian pressure by hand on the level.
anyway. that is my humble trick of the day from a framer setting some doors.
PS. I also tagged some shims across the face of the jamb to help keep the door frame from falling thru the RO while setting the door, I then ripped them off once the door was set.
Edited 9/20/2006 8:13 pm ET by alrightythen
Replies
Mmmmm. Pre-hung doors? Close the door after you get the hinge side plumb and tacked on in a couple of spots, and then make the jamb fit the door by shimming the latch side until you get the desired gap...
(from an old framer, now door hanger)
Jencar
Fancy seeing you here lady : )
Thought for sure I'd see you first in the Tavern.
Welcome home.....it's about time : ))) Alfred E. Newman for president (we'd be better off)
Heyy my friend...thanks for bringing me back to the light! I just now asked for permission to get back in there....
Feels like home!
JenWhatever works...
Heyy my friend...thanks for bringing me back to the light! I just now asked for permission to get back in there....
Feels like home!
Jen
Whatever works...>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>well it wasn't the same without you.
glad to be of help...anytime! Alfred E. Newman for president (we'd be better off)
Here's trick I picked up from an electrician.
when making an outlet cutout in cabinets, use a credit card to draw the outline for the electrical box - it's the exact size.
Welcome back!
“Experience doesn’t bring wisdom, experience evaluation does. When you fail, stay down there for a while and figure out what went wrong. Don’t run away from your failures, evaluate them and learn from them.”
Dr. John C. Maxwell
Wouldja look what the cat dragged in?!
I keep tellin' them to fix that damned lock! ; )
First Theodora, and now you.
Welcome back Jen!
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Thanks, JD...it's great to see the "old" gang's still hangin out!Whatever works...
Commonly called a spreader.Drop a plumb bob from head jamb to spreader and all is well.
I had one of those moments last week.
Thought I was Einstein - for about 30 - 45 seconds.
Building kitchen cabinets and putting holes in the (assembled) sides for the metal shelf pins. Put tape on the drill bit to show where it should stop so it would not go through the sides. Tape lasted about 10 seconds. Next two drill holes came out the outside of the plywood cabinet, not a good habit to start.
Picked up a block of wood as long as the drill bit. Ran the bit through the wood and cut it off so that only the tip of the drill came through as far as I wanted to put it in. Still had to be careful because the wood block could dent or otherwise damage the inside of the cabinet, but it beat the alternative of push and pray.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
I've used the tape trick all the time for "rough" holes, but for your application, good solution, using the collar.
I can picture what your saying about the collar denting the saurface, what about a stationary stop that you would hold or clamp against the work surface. maybe with a small fence that runs against the cabinet edge. just an idea.
Fence would be too complicated for this brain. I almost hurt myself thinking of the collar. Maybe next week. (G)
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
lol
A few hex nuts taped together with a thread diameter larger than the bit works well .They are smooth enough not to mess up the wood.
That sounds worth a try
Don - Try two small flat washers on the drill bit so they end up in between the wood and the chuck. The hole in the washer needs to be close to the size of the bit.
It'll keep the jaws of the chuck from digging into the wood block so that, 1. the tip of the jaws won't chew away the wood and change the depth, and 2. you can hold onto the block and it won't spin and damage anything.
Buic
OK, I'll bite
when I mark casing for the head jamb or any application where theres a miter at both ends, I make the first mark at the width of the casing plus a half inch then make the second mark the length plus the first measurement
so if I need 32 inches at the short points of 3 1/2" casing, I make a mark at 4" and 36"
then cut. saves you from trying to hold the tape measure at the first miter to mark where the second cut needs to be
Yes- Always a good method, to burn some appropriate inches. I eventually learned that I could use the edge of the table or fence on my miter saw to line up the short point of a miter, then hook my tape to said table or fence to pull the needed measurement and mark the other short point. Only works with saws that have squared up fence and table edges. I've used a Makita SCMS that had a round table so thus couldn't use this trick.
Yeah!! great trick..I figured that one too....'cept doesn't it work if you hook off the fence on the LS1013?
Yeah, maybe it was just the Makita TABLE that you couldn't hook. Anyway, it was definitely the light bulb goin' on when I learned this one!
Here's the tool I use to measure mitered trim:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32578&cat=1,42936,50298&ap=1
It's not as fast as some of the other techniques mentioned, but it lets me easily measure the short points, which lets me get a more accurate cut.
Now, if I can just figure out a fast, strong technique for attaching pre-assembling casing (at the corners) before hanging it...
-Don
Have you read the article about biscuiting trim and clamping them by Jim Chestnut about a year or so ago in the magazine. The system works well.
Have a good day
Cliffy
here is am old trick I came up with for cutting plywood.
most the time I just cut it. but there is the odd time where I want support for the cut off piece and don't have it. ( IE floor sheething that runs wild and I don't want to drop the cut off to the ground below )
what I do is start the cut, then once the saw is clear, toe nail a 2 /14" common thru the saw kerf. this will hold it from flopping down as the cut is continued. as I near the end of the cut I grab hold of the front end of the cut off as the cut as completed.
I now have the cut off held with one hand and nail holding the other end, I safely pull up the piece with no worries of co-workers below yelling at me to "watch it".
since then I ve seen a small clip that they make so that you can slip over the kerf to hold the piece; I always have 2 1/4"s in my belt so that works for me. plus the clip only works when there is clearance on both sides of the kerf, unlike scenario I described, with zero clearance created from a rim joist on the one side of the cut line.
Edited 9/21/2006 3:24 am ET by alrightythen
another plywood related trick.
"drawing lines with tape measure"
when marking lines for plywood cuts, many different ways....chalk lines, straight edge ( level, aslo draywall square is great)
sometimes no lines at all like when sheathing a a floor or "wall on deck" I some times overlap a piece with the adjoining piece pf ply where they meet at a joist or stud layout I simply use the overlapping piece as my cut guide. pieces are lightly tacked down top piece gets lifted and bottom cutt off get pulled out.
nOw...for the tape trick...one day I needed to make some lines and all I had was my belt minus chalk line. ( dang it! who stole my chalk line.) rather than go hunting I made my marks then pulled my tape across the plywood lining them up with the marks. with the tape pulled taut i was able to run my pencil along side the tape making a nice straight line :) cool I thought !
now from time I'll do that if a straight edge or chalk line is not handy, or simply for fun. short lines are easier to make, if you are making a longer line there is an additional trick.
set the tape, then press the tape down at a closer distance to the start, make your line, then slide your thumb down towards the finish then continue drawing your line.
PS this trick is not meant to be an easier way to make cut lines, but is good in a pinch and fun to do, and occasionally (more so)with short lines is pretty quick, because you already have your pencil and tape in your hands, you don't have to grab any other tools.
use the tape upside down, the tape and making the line is more managable...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
yes...that makes sense
when I do it I hook the tape over the ply and pull tight, with the tape sitting at a slight angle so that you get the one edge laying flat, works pretty well. I get in a rythym ...hook tape - measure - mark - repeat - then hook tape across marks - pull tight -draw line.
I'll try upside down, see what I like .
I just remembered a trick for if your having one of those days where your brain is out to lunch.
you mark out a piece of ply to cut, make the cut. only to find that you cut it at an angle.
ei...marked 39" on one side and for some retarded reason. you marked a 38" on the other, not seeing the angle that you just drew and cut 'till you go to put it in place.
simply make a third mark in the middle, so that when you make your line if you did something stupid you will see that your 3 marks don't line up.
most you guys won't care 'bout a trick like that, but I had a kid who I once showed that trick to, and once he started doing that, the angled peices stopped showing up at my feet.
WD40 is good for stopping silicon caulk sticking where you don't want it to.
one of my most common "tricks" is i keep a couple 4x8 sheets of 2" foam board around... thats what i cut my sheet goods on top of... (even drywall if its a weird cut) gives you full support of all drops... just have your saw set 1/2" to 1" deeper than your cut stock... i have several that look like they've had a 1000cuts on em and they still hold up... once they get a ton of cuts they start holding most of your sawdust so thats a good thing too...
p
Cool that one will go in my reportoire.
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
I made a tile work station for tub areas that double as a table and protect the tub.
I took a piece of 3/4" plywood and cut it about 57" X 33".
I P.L'd a piece of Dow 1" foam board to one side.
I added two hinges to one side.
I made a second piece thats about 57" X 16" and glued foam board to the back of that as well.
I drop the big piece of ply foam side down right onto the tub and if I feel like it I pop the pins in the hinges connecting the two pieces of plywood together which protects the top andddd side.
I use some old towels to stuff in the end where the wood doesn't cover the tub but allows me room to tile. I use the towels to protect the tub from whatever and move the towel/rags when I get to that area I'm tiling.
I put my snap cutter up there and all my tools and kneel/sit on it while I'm working. I've dragged this same piece of plywood around for years.
Its invaluable! Just be sure before you drop it on a tub there's no junk stuck into the foam board that can scratch the tub.
Be well
andy...
Alfred E. Newman for president (we'd be better off)
nIce...
Hey Justin,
when that shows up across yer desk remember ponyt said it here first and gets credit.
Tired of breathing dust and stooping awkwardly to cut kerfs for counter flashings on chimnys, I just attached a diamd wheel on my weed eater, no more dead batteries either!
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" If ya plan to face tomorrow, do it soon"
Found a new trick (to me, anyway) yesterday when scrounging around in some boxes of loose fasteners for toggle bolts...we go through at least 100 a day, hanging shelf standards, black boards, etc on old metal lath and plaster walls with those black iron studs that are nearly impossible to locate. Found something called "EZ Toggles". Only work on drywall tho...luckily we were in a new building.
Like an EZ anchor, you screw it in with your driver, the body sets into the drywall, and then you insert the screw through whatever you're fastening and tighten it. The toggle wing swivels open and pulls snugly to the drywall. If they strip out,(the kid I was working with didn't know his own strength) you can replace the screw provided with with a #10 sheet metal screw at least 2 1/8" long.
Saves two steps...drilling the hole, and fiddling around putting the bolt through the object, getting the toggle threaded on the end, and then holding the toggle closed while shoving it in the hole (three steps!)
Sounds like a commercial! Oh well, I'm sold...
Jen
We buy them by the thousands. You can get them in various weigth ranges too..
Good product.
Dave
>> The probelm I've aways had was when shimming the bottom of the side jambs maintaining pressure while setting the shims and plumbing at the same time. <<
When I hang interior doors, I shim the hinge side of the opening first at the bottom and the top using a 6'6" level.
I shoot the bottom shims in first and then I stick shims at the top and hold the level up against the bottom shims that are nailed in already and then up against the top shims and slide shims until level reads plumb and shoot the shims in.
Then I get the door and stick it in the opening and shoot the hinged side of the door into the shims at the bottom and top. Now the door is plumb and I stick the level on the hinged side of the jamb and put shims in the center and shoot through the jamb into the shim.
Then I close the door and check for my reveal across the top of the door and shoot the jamb at the top and then shim the rest of the latch side until the reveal is even.
Shooting the shims in first on the hinged side makes it a lot easier for me just putting the door up against and shooting through the jamb without using the level.
That is a method that I've heard before. When I was doing that door job it was a reno and for whatever reason the RO's were small. Shimming space was tight.
with the method you describe I agree that it is a slick method, but when you set your shims you are overlapping the sims and setting your level on the flat part that is created, which may be somewhere around and 1/8th to 1/4" off the frame - am I correct?
The doors I had to do, I had to get the door frame in and stick the shims in from either side of the jam to shim tight with very little if any overlap on some of the the shims.
Next time I hang doors in properly sized RO's I will try the pre shim method again. Thanks for bringing that method up.
>> with the method you describe I agree that it is a slick method, but when you set your shims you are overlapping the sims and setting your level on the flat part that is created, which may be somewhere around and 1/8th to 1/4" off the frame - am I correct? <<Yes, you are correct.There's been times where I have tight spots where I just shimmed out the bottom or top and shoot the door right into the frame on one end and shoot the door into the shim at the other end.Try it next time on a normal opening and see what you think. Hopefully these bozo framers frame the openings right....;-)Joe Carola
There is a trick from Joe Carola I learned about a year or 2 ago for framing.
Here in Jersey when framing walls we usually shoot our shoe to the floor solid then tack the next 2 x (top plate) on top of the shoe with a toe nail and the 3rd 2x (top plate) we nail solid again into the first top plate. Mark all our windows and doors, and then its time to mark our 16'' centers.
Say the building is a rectangle with a gable roof. We'll mark our 16'' centers on the 2 bearing walls then 2 guys will take a chalk line and string it across all of the interior walls on our bearing wall lay out. Very fast way to keep everything in line and stacked.
I hope I made some sense of that :)
it better've made sense being Joe's right on top of you : )Creation arises, is sustained for awhile, and then things change. That’s the dance.
heh he can almost reach me with a 16 footer!
I like that one from Joe....I'll try an C if I can adjust my framing sequence to give that a try.
I have always completed all exterior walls before touching the interior walls, then just measure off from where ever I need to to line things up.
Works like a charm ;)
>> There is a trick from Joe Carola I learned about a year or 2 ago for framing. Say the building is a rectangle with a gable roof. We'll mark our 16'' centers on the 2 bearing walls then 2 guys will take a chalk line and string it across all of the interior walls on our bearing wall lay out. Very fast way to keep everything in line and stacked. <<Glad to see it works for you. It's definitely a time saver and impossible to make a mistake.Are you close to Caldwell?Joe Carola
I used to post a while back. Name is Erik. Chatted with ya once and a while, either here, JLC, or at Fusco's. I'm from Maywood. About a mile from the Garden State Plaza.