Howdy….
I need to trim the bottom edge of my wood front entry door. I put a new threshold in and now the fits too tight. Couple questions…. when I plane the bottom should it be at an angle? I was thinking that if there was a slight angle (where the outside is shorter than the inside) it would be easier/smoother to open and close while maintaining a tight seal.
Also, should the newly trimmed door bottom just be treated, or should I use some type of weather strip? The threashold has a rubber strip, but I’m wondering if its bad to leave the wood exposed, even if sealed.
Thanks,
Kevin
Replies
I like to angle door bottoms, although I like even better to have the weatherstrip on the door than on the sill. Resource Conservation Technologies in Baltimore offers a number of options.
Always, always, always seal door bottoms. I mix up some 20 minute epoxy, thin it with alcohol, and paint it on with a foam brush.
Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
None of this matters in geological time.
Good tip with the epoxy... would have never thought of that. Guess it makes sense that its more weatherproof than a coat or two of poly.I checked out "Resource Conservation Technologies", unfortunatly they don't have much of a web presence. Too bad since they have tons of ads in Fine Homebuilding.Kind of a dumb follow up question.... but are there any tricks of the trade to get the right door length when factoring the weather strip, since its flexible?Kevin
the sills with adjustible wood strip insert, combined with the weatherstrip on the door bottom
make for an easier/better setup...maybe next time....
Resource Conservation has a lousy web site. That's my only criticism of the company. Call them up and they'll send a wonderful catalog. Their mail order service is outstanding. They offer door bottoms and weatherstrip in more configurations than Carter has liver pills.Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
None of this matters in geological time.
I'll give 'em a call.... I'm intrigued by their products.Thanks again...
Uhh, Andy, I think that Carter doesn't have any liver pills any more. Something about the government clamping down on his advertising because his pills really had nothing to do with the liver... Had to change the name to just "Carter's Little Pills" which didn't have a cachet of the liver pills and then just faded away except for some of us geezers who still remember when they were advertised heavily.
By the way, talking of medically related advertising of the 50's or so, what ever happened to Peter Pain???
Regarding the thinning of epoxy, you might find the rather thorough discussion of thinning on the West System website to be of interest:
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/14/ThinningEpoxy.html
Edited 11/16/2005 1:50 am ET by CaseyR
"-whatever happenen to Peter Pain?"
He took up residence in my neck & right shoulder...
Thats a new one on me. Alcohol thins epoxy? I've used epoxy reducer before, which, don't ask whats in it, it smelled like pretty hot stuff - more like acetone or MEK, but I don't know. Or is it a certain brand that alcohol will thin?"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
Alcohol thins epoxy before it sets. Once set, alcohol merely washes the surface. Its advantage is its short flash time - The alcohol is long evaporated before the epoxy sets.
No particular alcohol. I've even used rubbing alcohol. It's always a good idea to use relatively fresh alcohol though, as the stuff absorbs water from the air. Sufficient water in the epoxy might interfere with the set. I doubt the brand of epoxy matters either. It's all pretty much the same chemically.
Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
None of this matters in geological time.
Edited 11/10/2005 8:41 am ET by AndyEngel
Andy,thin the epoxy with naptha.I don't think you can use alcohol for epoxy. You have a good idea though. I use shellac,dries fast and is a good sealer.
mike
Naptha would work too, but I know that epoxy can be thinned with alcohol. I've done it.Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
None of this matters in geological time.
Alcohol works as a thinner in very small amounts. I've built a couple of stitch and glue boats and it an accepted technique for thinning. It's also good for cleanup of uncured resin along with acetone and distilled white vinegar.
Dave
Certainly seal the cut edge. Common practise around here is to cut more than you need off the bottom, then use a box sweep. This is adjustable to sit on the threshold. If you are in an exposed area it helps as it has a little drip edge too.
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Box sweep doesn't look too hackish on a good quality wood door? Would the sweep be in addition to a seal on the door bottom?Kevin
Box sweeps look like heck! Didn't know terms of reference here.... Go for the type that screw into the bottom of the door instead. Don't go for that dreadful sort that mounts on top of the threshold - the rubber breaks with wear, and you'll tend to trip on it.All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
I think box sweeps can be very nice if you get a good one.I've had good luck with Pemko products
http://www.pemko.com/Since there is no local retailer handy for me I typically purchase from http://www.chown.com/
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Rout a groove in bottom edge and install an automatic door bottom. It will be out-of-sight. Use with adjustable sill threshold.
I am looking for an automatic door bottom. One that drops down when the door closes. The homeowner doesnt want a threshold at the door into the garage and has a door mat inside that precludes using a sweep type seal. Can someone point me in the right direction?
Keith
Are you talking about something like this which has a side plunger that forces down a spring loaded seal when the door is closed?
http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/products/door_seals/door_bottoms.asp
http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/products/pdfs/data_door_bottoms.pdf