I recently installed new base molding in a room with old plaster walls that have some slight waves in them. I filled the small gaps between the molding and the wall with caulk (2 layers scraped with a straight edge to get it as smooth as possible with the top of the new base).
My question relates to how to paint the horizontal plane on the top of the base molding — where it meets the wall. The wall and molding will be different colors and I would like to make this transition point look as nice as possible. I think I have 2 choices: (1) paint the base and caulked areas all the same color…with this option I am concerned that the waves in the wall will be obvious due to the variations in the width of the top of the base; OR (2) paint the caulked areas the same color as the wall so the top of the base molding color will have uniform width.
What is the best option to trick the eye? Thanks.
Replies
When I caulk gaps between baseboard and wall, I just smooth the caulk with my finger creating a small fillet. When it gets painted, I "split the difference". I paint the trim first and when I paint the wall, I use my brush freehand to cut a line halfway across the fillet. It winds up looking perfectly normal.
I'm talking about gaps that might be 1/8" at most. Beyond that, I don't know how it could possibly be hidden.
Thanks Don. My gaps vary, but are probably no bigger than 1/8" at their widest.
Other strategies from anyone else still welcome.
I support Don's 'split the difference' method--adding that rather than cutting it in by hand, carfully tape that line with blue (safe release) painter's tape to mask it perfectly straight and you're golden.
"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
There really is no better method for making a straight line than painter's tape. However, sometimes a straight line is NOT what you want. For example, when cutting in at the ceiling where there is a sub-standard taping/spackling job, it's better to follow the apparent corner even if it's not perfectly straight.
At the baseboard, painters tape usually works very well, but I rarely use it because I like the paint to set up for a couple of days before I stick tape on it. Even on jobs that take several days, it's usually more convenient for the customer if I finish one room at a time - and so even then I don't use tape.
If the OP was asking about his own house, then painters tape would be a lot more feasible.
The advice you've gotten is good; the only additional suggestion I'd make is to buy yourself one of those European-style round trim brushes. If you've never used one before, you'll be amazed at how well you can control where the paint goes with one.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
...buy yourself one of those European-style round trim brushes...
I've never seen one of those. I'd like to think that I can be a continental kind of guy :-), so where can I find them?
View Image
They're actually called 'tapered sash brushes', and are made in various sizes. This photo is from a supplier in the UK, but now that you know what they look like, go to a good paint store and check his stock. Or check the website of your favourite brush manufacturer to see if they make one you can order on-line.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Thanks everyone...I have seen those brushes and have thought about buying one but have been too cheap to pull the trigger...my paint shop on LI, NY, has a medium sized one for $50 and a small sized one for $30...steep compared to a nice 1.5" Purdy. Thanks again.
Thanks. I've been to many paint stores in the area (central NJ). Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams. I've never seen those brushes, but I'll keep my eyes open.
Why paint trim?
Just kidding. Splte the difference is the way to go.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood