Replies

1. 
   rez | Apr 03, 2005 03:51am | #1

   bump

    

2. 
   gregb | Apr 03, 2005 06:42am | #2

   When we have to do something like this, we make most of the cut with a skilsaw, followed by a good (bosch) jigsaw. The jigsaw has an adjustable foot that slides to the rear of the saw. This allows you to make a cut almost all the way against a vertical obstruction, in this case your subfloor.

   You could also use a sawzall instead of the jigsaw, if you're comfortable with it (you may need to finish the cuts with one, anyhow). We use a stiff, thick demo blade to prevent wandering.

3. 
   DanH | Apr 03, 2005 07:10am | #3

   If I'm picturing this correctly, you could use a router to cut away the ends of the joists. Would be a lot of work, though, and you'd probably go through a few bits due to nails, etc.

1. 
   artworks | Apr 03, 2005 03:56pm | #4

   Thanks, I  figured most of your options already, sawsall is hard to work in the tight space & very hard to keep cut straight & square,  Router doesn't have enough depth, jigsaw maybe, but lots of broken blades. I am tempted to try one of those carving blades ( Lancerlot ) for a grinder. We will start on this project when the weather warms up and I will let this group know how it go's.  Should be lots of FUN ?

    

   IF IT WAS EASY, EVERYONE COULD DO IT !

1. 
   DanH | Apr 03, 2005 04:25pm | #5

   I think a router plus extension would get you an inch and a half. How deep do you need to get below the finished (stucco?) surface?

2. 
   woodguy99 | Apr 03, 2005 05:00pm | #6

   Art, I have a Lancelot blade, and there's no way I would use it for that b/c of the nails you might encounter.  That's one scary little chainsaw blade.  You can get long straight router bits.  If you do go with one of those methods, please consider getting a full-face shield so you don't end up posting one of those "don't do what I did" threads!

    

   Mike

3. 
   dIrishInMe | Apr 03, 2005 05:02pm | #7

   Do a search here at BT.  Maybe search for "cantilever".  I'm sure there have been discussions in the past about this very situation, although maybe not centering specifically on the cutting question.  Personally, I've always wondered in amazement at the "wisdom" that would make someone think that it was a good idea to cantilever the house's floor system joists out to an outdoor space. Matt

1. 
   BillHartmann | Apr 03, 2005 08:53pm | #11

   Yes, there was one 2 weeks ago.In fact I thought that this was that one at first.http://forums.prospero.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=55845.1

1. 
   artworks | Apr 03, 2005 11:26pm | #12

   Thanks all, I think I will go the  S Saw route, blades are $3 - 4 .00 and I can rig up a  guide / jig. The deck is 8' and I have scaffold. The Garage is on the lower level and I can access the space if need be. I don't think there is more rot past the 11/2" . This space is insulated w/ fibergals batts, so as long as the batts didn't wick up the moisture, I should be OK to  go. After I install the new ledger / ribbion, I will flash, install a spacer and then install a 2 x 6 ledger for the deck joists w/ hangers. I will install a 20' x 18" x 51/2 ' lam beam to support the o/s of the deck, 5/4 x 6 cedar deck boards w/ underside attachment gal. brackets and glass panel railings and maybe aextent a 'sun shade' roof over it to min. the hot W. summer sun. Oh and  under the stucco wall, the first floor wall   is  brick that I have to flash to keep moisture out from behind! You think this whole house was a test! You get real good at this trade by looking at other's mistakes. and not wanting someone later on cursing you for some bonehead, stupid things! But ..............

   IF IT WAS EASY, EVERYONE COULD DO IT!

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Apr 03, 2005 11:39pm | #13

   Yea - holding a router up to route out some verticle wood that has 8p or 16p nails in it doesn't sound like my idea of fun...

    Matt

3. 
   DANL | Apr 04, 2005 12:10am | #14

   I think owning a house in general is a test--not sure if it's a test of stupidity, our ability to withstand adversity (or to overcome it), or what. ;-) Scaffolding will make the job a lot easier; glad you have some. Oh, one more thing, the west sun might be better shielded by vertical "fins" of something like 2 x 6's because it's a little lower in the sky. Depending on your location, put them on the west or northwest end of the deck and orient them so the flats face NW. (Unless you live south of the equator, natch'.)

   Oh, and Martha and Joe, thanks for the nice words--or as I told Luka on another occassion, echoing the fictitious Bartles and James, "Thanks for your support."

4. 
   DANL | Apr 03, 2005 05:17pm | #8

   If you could work from a scaffold this idea would be easier, but here it is--since you'll have to cut away all the exterior, between joists, to accommodate the new ribbon, nail a guide to the studs parallel to where the ribbon will go and at the appropriate distance so you can rest a circular saw's shoe edge on it and have the blade cut a kerf where the lowest edge of the ribbon will be. Use a carbide tipped blade set 1-1/2" deep (or a little deeper if necessary) and "score" that line. Move the guide boards up to do the same for the top edge of the ribbon. Remove the guide and then just run a bunch or parallel slots in each joist end. Then break out the waste with a BF chisel.

1. 
   joewood | Apr 03, 2005 06:21pm | #9

   i think Danno deserves the milk bones this time ..

1. 
   MarkH | Apr 03, 2005 06:52pm | #10

   I was thinking a router, but Danno has the best idea.