I am working in a house where the hardwood floors were just refinished and the home owners asked me to install 1 5/8″ by 3/4″ thick shingle mould instead of quarter round around the baseboard. I have two curved walls to deal with that are a ninety-degree radius. I have tried steaming the trim but the angle is so sharp the it splits . Any suggestions other than getting it made up at a factory. thanks, Gary
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What is a 90 degree radius?
...probably a quarter circle instead of a 90 degree intersection?....If it is to be.... 'twil be done by me.
Any chance you could build it up, the stock, and profile it yourself...similar to the article in the new issue of Fine Homebuilding?
Gary
What is "1 5/8" by 3/4" thick shingle mould"?
Never heard of it, bending a piece of wood for mouldings is very easy, give some more detail as to the moulding and if there is a profile.
Some moldings won't bend to the radius that you may need.. sorry they just won't solutions include slicing the molding into thin strips and bending each thin strip the required amount then nailing/glueing it back together as it's it's bent into place..
The trick here is to use two piece for each piece you want.. As you know when you saw something you lose the "kerf" If you just glue it back together it will be thinner and lumpy..
What you do is slice a thin piece off, then offset the next cut the amount you lost from the kerf of the sawblade. Now take your second piece of trim and cut it that thickness, offsetting every other slice..
very labor intensive but whenever you are working in the round you'd better plan on spending either a ton of money or a ton of time..
The trick here is to use two piece for each piece you want..
I've done this lots of times .....for round window casing and also for base.
it really doesn't take that long if you use the blade width as your "filler" width. Takes two pieces to make one piece...........make a radius jig and glue the thing together in your shop.....dry/ clean it up real nice and then take to the jobsite, finish cut and nail it onThere are fast carpenters who care..... there are slow carpenters who care more.....there are half fast carpenters who could care less......
Sometimes you as the installer have to clue the customer in on the mechanics involved in the project they want you to handle.
If this is going to be a huge hassle and eat your lunch timewise, and maybe not look worth a hoot as a finished product, maybe you can come up with a different material that may give a similar look that the customer would approve.
All I'm saying is you have a lot better idea of how to go about achieving the look the customer wants then the customer has. If the customer's selection of material makes a relatively simple project complex, what is this going to do to the budget? Most likely it's going to cost a lot more than they were expecting. And perhaps you could come up with something comparable but less costly. Or you could spend about the same amount of money but achieve something much better looking for your customer.
Good Luck in your Installation. Any way you look at it, at least you are getting an education on this job.
Go Get Em!!
Cork in Chicago
Sounds like you have a tight curve. Try building up the trim. Split it upright into two or three pieces (you will need extra lengths of shingle mould because the sawcut removes material) glue and nail these pieces in place to follow the curve. The thinner pieces will bend without breaking and the exposed face will appear smooth. Use sandpaper and filler to correct the top.
I have made a ton of curved mouldings in my shop over the years (using a profile grinder, shapers and moulders) and there is no easy way, unless you pick out a flex mold profile. If the client is dead set on that particular profile or you have installed every thing else then I would recomend having a local mill shop make a true solid radiused moulding. That way you can pass the cost directly to the client and save yourself a big headache on site. By the way steam bending only works on green wood. If it is paintgrade you could do it in plaster and 'drag' the profile with a template cut out of sheet meatle.
All of these other posters are making real professional suggestions. I have no doubt of the quality of their comments. Believe them.
On the other hand, me, as a overzealous DIY'er, came across the problem in a circular stair well 60" in diameter (radius of 30"). My part was to obtain and finish the red oak trim prior to installation by the carp.
We ended up throwing a finished (on 3 sides) 16' piece of base into the salt water swimming pool for a few days, Then took it and bent it reasonably without breaking it and put it into the spa part of the pool where the curved walls of the spa became a form. Then after another day, bent it a bit tighter, etc. until it was U sharped. Took it out, let it dry, cut it to fit, and nailed it up. No adverse effect to the finish at all. Looked great.
Where did you find a salt water swimming pool?
Do it right, or do it twice.
In the atlantic;-)
Whats the moulding look like? That has a lot to do with how easy it is.