*
…enters.
I am the project manager for a 3,500sq.ft. architect designed and engineered custom home to be built in the Ft. Collins, Colorado area. The home owner is the General Contractor.
I would like to hear any input from journeyman carpenters and/or framing subcontractors willing to provide me with any insights concerning the boom that you are currently going through. Responses via my personal e-mail are encouraged, will remain confidential, and will carry considerable weight in hiring the lead and rest of the crew. The architect has been instructed to specify that the primary framing fastner will be the #16d common hand spike. The emphasis will be on quality and professionalism, safety is job one, pay consumarate with local rates and skill level.
The current status of the project is that preliminary drawings have been submitted to the G/C but have yet to be finalized. Blasting, excavation, and foundation work is currently being arranged. Our current target date to begin framing is the first week of September of this year. Interior trim and cabinetry work has already been contracted for. All permits will be pulled from the County.
I would like to hear mostly from you guys that are in the rafters and humpin’ the ply. Don’t even care what you say here, consider this your own little forum to blow off steam about what’s it like working in Ft. Collins, just be careful about names and name calling, you know the drill. You’re gonna be using your own saw; nobody will razz ya because of your Mag 77, might get razzed for the Estwing though ’cause you’ll be swinging it all day. Youngsters with framing hatchets don’t impress me at all. Guys who whistle while they work do. As for any smart a** comments about the “search” button, read the time stamp, I’m on PDT and I’ve been lurking here most of the day.
Dano
Replies
*
>The architect has been instructed to specify that the primary framing fastner will be the #16d common hand spike
HuHH, you mean the kind you got to hit with a hammer?? UUUUHHH I think I quit.
*good luck finding anyuone under forty that can still use handrives for more than just ballast on a windy day.why no gun nailingjim
*Should only those with beards, black hats and clothing apply? Give me a break already......are the painters required to hand brush? How about hand sawing....shovels instead of high lifts......
*Luck...Gonna need it........
*Jim W., yeah. Kinda hard to quit, since ya' never got started.Jim, no cap on age limit, no second floor. Hint: read second to last word of your statement.Al, no, equal opportunity employment opportunities. Only when necessary. Hand saw might come in handy. Shovels? Never seen a framing shovel.Mark, care to tell me why?
*Hey Danford,I think Mark may mean you won't find what you're looking for here. You better hit the streets of Ft. Collins and check out the locals.Nobody hand drives anymore. If they do they use 12VC. 16c are too long. They'll stick out the otherside of a three inch nail-up. Great for ripping arms, hands and legs, but doesn't really add too much to quality.He may also know as I do, that very few jobs (accent on the "very") turn out well with the homeowner being the GC. That is unless he IS a GC.Good luck from me too.Ed.
*>Jim W., yeah. Kinda hard to quit, since ya' never got startedNo offence Danford, but you sound like you're trying to BS the troops.
*Ed, Kinda hopin' that you would drop in. When you speak, people listen. I don't really "know" too many folks over here, so thanks for the heads up. I'm gathering info, kind of hard for me to bump around in Ft. Collins right now, since I'm in Klamath Falls, Or. Figured I'd pop in here, to get qualified feedback. See a lot of hand bangin' goin' on in my neck of the woods. Back in my home building days I worked for a couple of home owner/GCs before I knew better, so I wouldn't have even considered this project if I didn't know he had any G/C experience. He does, albeit 20 years ago or so, that's part of the reason for being his gofer. Thanks, for the luck. FWIW, the leadb willbe local, the right guy will do the hiring and shouldn't need anyone looking over his shoulder.Jim W., Sorry if it appears that way, I'm serious as a heart attack. If I drop an incendiary or two, it's just to keep things rollin'. Things are a little more "relaxed" over here. No offense, taken Jim, I've dropped a few before and can take what I dish out. I reads 'em as I sees 'em, publicly admit to my mistakes, apologize to those I've wronged, and move on.Dano
*Re: LuckAll the AIA's I work with knows the rules; AIA designs 'em, I build 'em.When I get anyone telling me to do things contrary to good sound, proven practices, I get leery, looks like a control freak on the grounds. My next question to the AIA is: Prove it!Hand nail two sets of yellow pine together, one hand nailing, the other with da gun. Now, pull 'em apart.With a crows foot, the hand nails will come, ain't gonna happen as easy with pnu gun. Tread careful......Again, Luck
*Mark, message recieved, thanks.Dano
*The Construction Docs specify No. 16 hand nailed?Ed is right, we use only 12 shorts here outa Senco's. Faster just as strong, and toe nailing is more precise and stronger. They shine for sheathing and decking. I can just imagine some of the other specifications. As PM, you gotta deal with that for your 10%, and if if is that wierd, I'd bump it up to 15%.I'll bid on that, but on a time and materials basis. If you can find a crew that will give you a bid, I'd be suprised, and it will be 20% more to put up with a GC that equates old technology with quality. Example: hot mopped shower pans vs. CPE. This homeowner needs to take Mark's test and then compare bids.I haven't seen a hand framed home in probably 15 years. Get a solid contract, and one with a breakage clause, so you get paid on the whole deal (on a percentage of completion basis)plus a default clause of 10% when the homeowner freaks out and queers the deal when he begins to understand the bid process.
*Scooter,They are still in the preliminary design stages, as of Wednesday, nothing has been approved. Thanks a lot for your input, I appreciate it.Dano
*Dano,Yer wiggling yer pole too much.b : )
*Danford, I guess I'm gonna be the odd duck. I don't give a crap for gun nails, in my opinion the only place they should be used is nailing down the sheating. I suspect the architect has, like I have, seen too many jobs where the studs are not tight to the plate, headers with 1/4 inch gaps to the studs, and top plates floating on nails. Nail guns need to press the lumber together BEFORE the nail goes off. Most guys go to fast to eliminate gaps, hand nailing forces the wood together, better job, unfortunatly most newbees think of a hammer as a bottle opener and nothing more.
*Good workmanship is just that, has nothing to do with air tools. I agree you will have a heckuva time finding a crew to hand nail the whole thing. Way I see it, you'll end up with those most desperate for work. In other words, I think you'll end up with that inferior quality workmanship you so desperately want to avoid. Just my own thoughts. I read 'em as I sees 'em as well.
*Luka, I beg to differ, I'm trolling not still fishing, imparts more action on the bait.:) Armin, I don't think that you are the i odd ducksince I agree with you. Hell, I used to be a journeyman carpenter and eventually had my own sub contracting business but that was quite a few years ago, that's the reason for posting. Things change. Mike, you bring up an excellent point. And that is why I pulled this discussion over in the "Help Wanted" section. There is the other side of the coin too. Guys using air nailers like Uzis, shooting nails through their hands, having to re nail the sheathing, or worse, because of a failed inspection. Frankly speaking, I am responsible to the home owner not my ego and the bottom line is, i the bottom line.After all, if I don't bring this project in on time and on budget, then I have failed to perform as hired. Thanks to the both of you for your input. I had a phone conversation with the home owner and we discussed the input that I have received so far. The end result is that he is flexible and will discuss this with the Architect. So far we appear to be on track. If the blasting and excavation can be started by the end of August or beginning of September we proceed if not, we hold off until Spring. It's basically in the hands of the county once the plans are filed. As a general comment I would like to thank you all for your input, it is appreciated. However, he did ask about the validity of information gathered on a public forum in that does the "typical" framing carpenter come to these sites? He can understand the business owner coming here. Judging from some of the more colorful posts in other threads, I'm certain that they do, certainly a business owner wouldn't risk making some of those posts just out of fear that a potential or existing customer might be lurking about. Finally, I am still interested in any type of input as mentioned above. You do have my word that any further posts from me will be much shorter.:) Dano (My deletion above is a result of a typo found that had potential for some confusion)
*.> Things changeThey have, most GC's know what the norm is for today and conduct their business accordingly. When I hire a framing crew I don't expect them to go vintage to get the job. I DO expect them to make true cuts, stay plumb, level and square....and follow the prints without taking artistic license. They carry hammers for lots of things, one of them being to knock down the plates if the gun doesn't set the nail. If you keep within the norm and hire the best framer you can find, you'll be far better off in the long run. These kinds of demands make you look goofy in spite of your experience. In todays market you won't find guys who are worth their salt willing to risk a job such as yours when there are others waiting down the street. Unless you're willing to pay really big bucks which you aren't according to your original statement.
*However, he did ask about the validity of information gathered on a public forum in that does the "typical" framing carpenter come to these sites?Yes they do..I can personally vouch for that having met some of them. The beauty of this forum is that there is a wide range of experience ( and unfortunately inexperience) giving advice. All you have to do is sift the wheat from the chaff.
*Jim, good points, been my experience that those who run their business like you appear to run yours, are the ones that are handed down from one generation to the next. The "fly by nighters" are the ones who end up as building inspectors or what ever.b ;)I am a little confused about your last sentence, though. I have no investment here other than time, and it's return won't be known until the final accounting is done upon this projects completion. From the homeowners point of view, he does have an MBA in Finance, so he clearly understands the cost relationship in the business formula. So he thinks in terms of returns on investment, cost justification, etc.Mark, i I knowthey do too and told him so, thanks for you input. Dano
*Danford, I'm a typical framer. I've been bent over for about 25 years now. I have hand pounded at least a hundred or more large custom houses. But I can say, with certainty that I've never framed an entire house with 16d commons. If you even find a box somewhere, they'll probably be rusty.Your spec writer just grabbed some old verbage and is hoisting it on you.For what it's worth, I wouldn't even offer you a bid, if you were insisting on 16d commmons. I can offer substantial proof that a cement coated sinker will out perform your commons. I will also offer you my standard challenge. We'll each have ten seconds to nail two studs together. I'm going to use my nail gun with 3" .131's. You nail like a wild Mutha' with your commons. Then, we'll exchange pieces and race and see who can seperate the two faster.I'm going to bet a doughnut to a goose turd and you can hold the stakes in your mouth.I think I'm going to win...blue
*I was hoping blue would chime in. He's the Master Framer around here.Armin's points have merit too.Perplexing......isn't it.Ed.
*Dano --What's plan check like there? Here in LA, a note to use nothing but 16d would get tossed back at you in a New York minute, as it were.... ;-)They'd probably hand you their Type V sheet and point to the nailing schedule.-- J.S.
*With all the steel strapping now being called for by newer codes you could probably stand the structure up with a few thumb tacks or an 18GA brad nailer.
*Danford, eough has really been said, but I'll wiegh in as a carpenter. I started building garages in the summer, hand framed the first two, then went pneumatic. The end product sure didn't suffer, but we got the job done alot faster. 10 yrs framing and another 10+ doing remodeling and additions. Quality has nothing to do with the nailing method and everything to do with the carpenter. You should look at a job done by the guy you hire. Are the king studs nailed tight and aligned to the trimmers? headers together tight? sills tight to trimmers? headers and sills aligned with adjoining studs? etc.etc.The fact that 16d commons are specified is questionable too. Commons have no cement coating. Maybe I'm being picky, but it appears that you might be dealing with a very old or very young architect, certainly not one who has spent much time in todays building world.Good luck, steve
*i Luka, I beg to differ, I'm trolling not still fishing, imparts more action on the bait.:) True. I didn't think it through. Just said what seemed funny at the time.Actualy, you don't know how lucky you are. When I first saw the title to this thread, it was right next to the title that says something about a 'proch'. Since letters were gettin' juxtapositioned already, you don't even want to know what I read the title to this thread as...b : )
*Man, I like your style. Was wondering when you would surface.FWIW, I'm not dumb enough to agree to take up your challenge, the days of 3 bangin are so far behind me that I get tired just thinking about'em. You're the type I always kind gravitated towards when I was green, if you catch my drift. I've never framed an entire home with 16 commons either, that's why I always carried a hand full of pole barn spikes in the pouch, if a 16 sinker wouldn't snug things up nice and tight and square, a pole spike sure as hell had enough draw power to bring that mutha into line. You sound like the guy that took the time to explain to me that a hand spike is a tool. I will openly confess as to never having learned how to use an air nailer to do that.Now maybe I created some confusion here, but "primary framing fastner..." refers to the frame and not to the sheathing. As to the decking, because of the wind loads involved and general understanding of the design concept, we are not talking about your typical engineered gang nailed Doug Fir roof trusses. Sorry for not making that clear. 'Bout time you showed up. 'Preciate your input.Luka, ROFLMAODano
*Blue,Your 'challenge' doesn't hold water any better now than it did before.The main point being debated is that hammering a nail will pull up a gap, and an air nailer will not. b My challenge... I'll bet you a dollar to a donut. (It'll taste better when you hold it in your mouth.) We strap my hammer to the back of a jackrabbit. And we strap your airgun to the back of a turtle. Both animals weighing the same. Your airgun has a 50 foot hose, and is connected to a 3 HP compressor. We let them both loose, and make a loud noise. The one who first reaches the perimeter of a circle 110 foot in diameter, with the tool still strapped to their back, wins. Your 'challenge' makes no more sense in reference to the above point being debated, than my challenge. The only thing that your 'challenge' proves is that you can knock a ton of nails in, in the same time that someone else can knock in only a few. Lay a couple boards together, or set the end of a stud against a top or bottom plate... and whether you pound four nails in by hand, or shoot them in with an air nailer, it will be fairly equaly difficult to pull them apart. Unless there is a gap between the two boards when you start. If you have a gap between the boards when you start, the air nailer will not close the gap. The operator has to pull the gap together themself. If they don't, the boards will be fairly easy to pull apart. Many, (WAY too many), nailgun operators do not bother with pulling gaps together. Using a hammer, the gap gets pulled together without the 'operator' having to do anything different than what they are already doing. Driving the nail.Your challenge is still just a bunch of hoohaw.
*Okay guys listen up, something is goin on in this site that has me totally confused. The order of the posts have been changed; my previous post to this one was directly underneath Luka's, who was underneath, blues. I posted addressing blue and Luka somewhere in the neighbor hood of 8:00 - 9:OO PDT. As far the posts after that, I haven't a clue, I just got here and my computer says 11:49 PDT. Now this may not seem like a biggie to you, but right now I have the case of the jaws like a gorilla, and Mark Coleman is gonna hear about this, via LL, first thing when I roll out of the rack at 0500 my time.Lack of the actual continuity in these threads can create not only confusion to those who are actively participating, but for those just lurking trying to learn something but are afraid to ask. Further more, it is hard enough as it is to avoid misunderstandings as it is. Most of you guys that have posted don't even know me. I'm here trying to learn something not just only for my benefit but for others as well. I'm so P.O.d right now I could spit.In my view the computer types that are messing around with the server and Mark need to get this straightened out ASAP, because now we have some real credibility issues. In my case, it appears that I have read these posts, and made an "appropriate" response. Now, I started this thread and am trying to get a free flowing discussion going here that is professional and beneficial to all. Changing the order of these and any other postings is a major error. As this sentence is being typed it is 12:13 AM July 3 PDT. So know I respond in the new order as I now see them. Okay, rants over.Ed, FWIW your post #22 is where Luka's #26 should be I was #23 and so, I too was hoping blue would drop by as already stated. The only thing I'm perplexed about is the current state that this forum in, what next? Edited text?J.S. Not sure at all when you actually posted but,, when I was framing, no, it was not unusual at all for plans that called for 16ds for the frame back in Michigan where I come from. As I stated that was a number of years ago. As to nailing schedules, get real, you ever see an inspector kick out a wall to count nails and measure spacing?Ralph, can't really comment about that other than; 'bout the only reason I go one is for tacking down temporary jigs and what not.Steve, I don't think enough has been said, IMO. You make valid points, many of which I agree with. Whether I agree withb anyonesopinion is really doesn't matter since I'm basically the gofer.Right now, I'm just frustrated because of Taunton screw up with this thread, because I know that ya'll would have responded differently had the thread been maintained in it's proper order. I know it wasn't intentional but, very unprofessional and irresponsible none the less. Hell it's been a long day and I may be over reacting. But that's one of the reasons that I am the PM, I do sweat the details. Any who I'm otta here, and for the sake of accuracy it is 0126 PDT July 3Dano
*Ah, time is no proof, they screwed up the order sequence. Was afraid to correct my typos because the server is bogging down again and dind't want to lose my post.Luka, you're hired this baby's yours, email me for bonus details:)Dano
*not for nuttin..all our framing is with hot dipped galv. .. the only thing close to a bright nail is our gun nails..hand nails are 6d.. 8d... and 16d... occasional 12d...beam work is 20d....pulled too many frames apart in this salt air atmosphere with nothing left of the nails...gun nails ... what ever bostich is selling...SS. for siding...galv. tech for the rest....
*Hey Dano,Thanks for the call, I'll look into way the posts got rearranged and update you soon. Mark
*Darn Danford...I wanted to see that mouthful of the the stakes...Often, I carry a 20 common spike to pull things tite. I carry it for a year or so, then toss it out. Most often, 16 cc sinks will pull anything and everything provided you do it in a timely manner. The rookies get 6 or seven gun nails into something that isn't tight, then wonder why a spike won't pull it. I suppose there's no substitute for experience.YOu mentioned in another reply that you learned to frame in MI. What part of Michigan?blue
*Luka, I'm not willing to risk jail time by torturing the animals. We'll just have to settle on my challenge.The challenge seems senseless, but when you think about the reality of getting those nails into the wood, it doesn't seem so far fetched. In real practice, hand pounders tend to put too few nails in. Gun nailers tend to put too many fasteners in. I can safely say that I've often told gun nailers to put fewer nails in, and just as often told hand pounders to put MORE in. It's not uncommon for me to see the trimmers put together with six or seven gun nails, but only three hand pounders. The exterior rough sawn trim is stapled on with three at 8-10". Hand pounders put two at 16 to 24". All in all, I'm willing to bet that most gun nailed homes have substantially more fasteners in it. I've pulled apart a lot of mistakes. I can safely say that I'd much prefer to pull apart a hand pounded house. If I ever have to yank a piece of fascia on a stapled cornice, I usually just cut it up into small chunks. It ain't coming off in one piece without a sawzall. I guarantee that.I can also say with certainty, that I had just as many loosely pounded walls when hand pounding. In fact, the very act of handpounding often loosens up adjoining areas of a frame. If the carpenter isn't carefull, he'll end up with loose framing in many areas of the frame. The argument that gun nailers leave a lot of loose framing is simply not a good one. It is the only straw that old timers that want to live in the past can grasp. They hang their hat on that silly notion because it's the only chance they've got, despite the fact that it's not true very often. Incidentally, I've never seen a gunner without a hammer. Most know how to use it. The good mechanics always start with tight framing and the gun nails keep it that way.The guns provide many, many advantages. Hand pounding provides one questionable one. Have it your way...blue
*Good answer Blue. You make a lot of sense.Would that every other framer had the same common sense you do. I've just seen far too many examples of framing bosses who are more concerned with getting it up fast, and damn the details. My dislike for gun framed structures comes from experience with frames that would have been better put together if the crew had used bubble gum and baling wire. I guess that my approach blames the gun too much, and not the guy/girl holding it.The nailgun is a tool, just like any other. It can be used well, or it can be used as a way of making a fast buck. It can, in fact, be used to do both. I have personaly seen it used more for the fast buck with total disregard to quality of work. But I'll give you this... To call for a ban of nailguns is the same as throwing the baby out with the bathwater.
*I like your analogy Luka (throwing the baby out with the bathwater).Incidentally, I used to be one of those oldtimers that wouldn't use the guns. I actually had over a $1000 worth of guns sitting un-used on my shelves. One day, when I had the guys over doing a little remodeling in my basement, I had a revelation. The rookie was about to start nailing some 2x2 framing under a heat duct drop and I was chuckling inside about how he was going to beat that thing apart trying to nail it. He calmly picked up the framing gun and started easily assembling the rickety structure in midair! I was stunned and immediately realized that the gun had some serious advantages that I had stubbornly overlooked. One big reason that I used to knock the guns is because I attempted to frame in the same way with guns as I did while handpounding. In many ways, this does not make sense. I've spent the last 15 years perfecting sensible gun techniques and can reasonable say that I'm a much better framer now, with guns.I usually make a little more money too. blue
*Thanks for the kind acknowledgement Ed. I only hope I can live up to your words.blue
*Here's another vote for Blue. He has hit the nail on the head so to speak.One thing nobody has mentioned yet is the weather...Ft Collins gets plenty cold in the winter, and with snow and all, sometimes you don't get much time to do your building. You need to get a lot done in little time. That favors the use of guns.I'm in Denver. I've noticed a fair number of builders prefab trusses, hunks of wall, etc. at indoor facilities. Then they truck the parts to the jobsite and put them up. That's how they beat the weather.
*What I'd like to know is what difference it makes if you want me to hand nail 16 commons or use a gun. If I'm getting $35 an hour, who cares?Set your rate, do what they want. Everyone's happy. Why should I care if you want to use archaic methods to achieve the same end result? I'll use a hand saw to cut the lumber if you want... Since you don't care how long it takes to frame the building as long as you get a lot of nails hand pounded, I assume you'll give me a lot of time to rest in between boards since I'm working a hell of a lot harder pounding all those nails than pulling an air hose and a trigger.Thanks. When do we start?MD
*don't forget to ride your horse to work!
*.....and make sure your WCB is payed up. Won't hurt to have some anti-inflamitories handy as well.
*I still hand drive 16d.I'm years behind Blue in that I have pneumatics, but others use them more than me. So, when I need wood put together, out comes the hammer.Then again, I like it when my arms go numb at night...Regarding separated boards or loose framing...a good crew will do well with hammers or air. A bad crew will do bad with hammers or air. As you're trying to do, you just have to find some of the good guys.
*I'm not going to pound nails, shoot nails, or even look at the nails for $35.00 per hour. That was my rateten years ago, and I'm not going back without a fight...I will however do whatever at 65.00 per hour....blue
*But Mongo...don't you drive 16d sinkers?There's a world of difference between 16 commons and 16 sinks. I wouldn't let a crew frame a house free for me with 16 commons. It's just too weird for my liking.blue
*Hey Blue,I learned how to frame in the Lansing area of Michigan. You remind me a lot of the "old fart" that kinda took me under his wing when I was new. Brought back quite a few memories reading your posts and appreciate your input, you make sense to me. Just goes to show, though, that it really isn't the tool, it's the guy using it.Some one mentioned weather in Ft. Collins and it is a concern besides the high winds I mentioned. If the blasting, excavation, and foundation can't be done by the first or second week of September, we hold off until spring.Any who, I really appreciate all the input that I got over here. Still would be interested in hearing from anyone in the Ft. Collins area too.Dano
*Dano, I once hired a guy from Lansing. I can't remember his name. He was a decent carpenter but he left me in a lurch. I wasn't too pleased, but I'm over it now. I'm not too good at taking guys under my wing. I'm back to hating teaching...mood swing alert!blue
*Blue,I can assure you that it wasn't me, never left anyone in the lurch. My philosophy is to always try to leave people better off than I found 'em.Dano
*good on you dano.... always leave 'em smilin..what goes around, comes around..(never did figure out what that meant .. but i love sayin it...)book 'em !....
*Not sure Ft Collins has discovered internet yet.
*If you want the best nailed frame then b Tree Island brand hot dipped galvys in a big variety of sizes is best IMO. Mike S. espouses them for corrosion resistance but they also hold very well. There is a huge difference in quality of manufacture so i would insist on b Tree Island. Common nails are likely to split alot more members especially in a dry enviroment like Fort Fun.Dan i learned construction in Lansing/Okemos myself, live outside of Portland now. Spent last weekend in Winter Park and Denver. joe d
*Sorry, Blue...I still frame in the semi-dark ages...with commons. I don't even carry 16d sinkers, though for the most part they are near-equivalent to 10d commons, and I do use those.Haven't had any real problems with the commons splitting the stock, though that can be dependent on the type of wood used in framing.Maybe someday I'll see the light...anyone want to lend me a flashlight?Jurassically, Mongo
*Mongo, 16 sinkers are equivalent to 12 commons.The last box of 16 commons I saw was at least 18 years ago. I think I remember throwing them in the porch for back fill. To date, none of the many houses that I've framed with 16 sinkers, and more recently, 3" .131 clipped headed gun nails has fallen down. If the houses I frame fall down quicker than yours, I won't be crestfallen because I'll already be dead anyway. Nothing lasts forever. I'm curious. Why aren't you using 20d commons? I'm sure they would be much stronger. blue
*6d.... 8d... 16d... and 20d---- all Hot Dipped Galv..if it might split you dap the end....ho hum .. this dinosaur takes a nap in the afternoon
*I used to use 20d commons until I got a hold of a few hundred kegs of railroad spikes.I know, I know, now you're going to bitch about splitting the studs with those railroad spikes...not a problem since we started using 4 by 6's for studs, 12 inches OC.Now if they'd only come up with a titanium sledge hammer...you know, one of those things with only half the head weight and one-third the wallop?Later, buddy...Mongo
*That's hilarious Mongo. I'm thinking 8 x 8's, treated at .40 of course, about 12" oc. Then we can sheet the walls with 2x12's-three layers: the first horizontal, the second diagonal, then the third vertical. All treated of course.I like the idea of steel beams for top plates. Maybe some 18" glulams at 8"oc for roof members. Yes, titanim sledgehammers is a great idea!Thanks for the laff.blue
*
...enters.
I am the project manager for a 3,500sq.ft. architect designed and engineered custom home to be built in the Ft. Collins, Colorado area. The home owner is the General Contractor.
I would like to hear any input from journeyman carpenters and/or framing subcontractors willing to provide me with any insights concerning the boom that you are currently going through. Responses via my personal e-mail are encouraged, will remain confidential, and will carry considerable weight in hiring the lead and rest of the crew. The architect has been instructed to specify that the primary framing fastner will be the #16d common hand spike. The emphasis will be on quality and professionalism, safety is job one, pay consumarate with local rates and skill level.
The current status of the project is that preliminary drawings have been submitted to the G/C but have yet to be finalized. Blasting, excavation, and foundation work is currently being arranged. Our current target date to begin framing is the first week of September of this year. Interior trim and cabinetry work has already been contracted for. All permits will be pulled from the County.
I would like to hear mostly from you guys that are in the rafters and humpin' the ply. Don't even care what you say here, consider this your own little forum to blow off steam about what's it like working in Ft. Collins, just be careful about names and name calling, you know the drill. You're gonna be using your own saw; nobody will razz ya because of your Mag 77, might get razzed for the Estwing though 'cause you'll be swinging it all day. Youngsters with framing hatchets don't impress me at all. Guys who whistle while they work do. As for any smart a** comments about the "search" button, read the time stamp, I'm on PDT and I've been lurking here most of the day.
Dano