I have a GE Spacesaver XL1400 microwave oven / exhaust fan which has mysteriously quit heating.
100% performance to 0% – no odd noises, or warning signs – just quit.
Everything else functions, lights, turn table, clock, timer, exhaust fan but no heating.
Unit is 10+ years old so it really does not owe me anything.
Just wondering if there was anything else to check before scrapping it.
Incidentally, I translate the stickers which say, “No user servicable parts inside” as an open invitation – kind of like a “Welcome” mat!
I once had a JC Penny microwave which blew a small automotive type fuse inside the unit – replaced it for $0.35 and got another 5 years out of the unit, then donated the oven to our church where it is still working.
Jim
Replies
Had a sim problem w/current M/W. GE had a problem with one of their internal components (magnatron???) that they extended the warranty on but really didn't tell anyone about. might be worth a try through GE service but there's a min charge involved with that if not warranty. I found the ph # on the door of the MW.
I'm no expert but I'd say the thing is busted.
I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish. Pete Draganic
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Yep, that's what ails it!
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I use to work on those back in the 80's. My guess would be a diode or the magnatron. If magnatron.... go buy a new one.
sorry
Thanks - will file this info.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I second "If it's the magnatron, buy a new one. I swear I am not making this up: A woman I did a bathroom for had a new stuposmatron or whatever put in her microwave...2 days later, I hear a LARGE "BOOM!" and the sound of glass breaking. The microwave had literally exploded all over the kitchen. Luckily the lady was in another room and was not hurt in any way.No Coffee No Workee!
I've repaired a few microwaves. Usually only a door safety switch is bad. I've also replaced a magnetron but it cost $80, worked great though (it was a real nice microwave).
You need to add more Plutonium. It needs refueling, wear a dust mask and safety goggles.
If you can't find Plutonium locally, just get 12,ooo,ooo glow in the dark watch hands, and scrape off the Iridium , into a cat food can. Bring to a boil , stirring constantly, use a wooden spoon. When cool, put the whole can and contents in a can crusher, and compact. ( a bearing press also works)..take the compacted can and wire the red wire to the Iridium chunk ( wait, maybe the black wire?) and the greenwire to the old magnetron..( or was it the white wire?)..Ok, now plug it in, and hit the "do it" button.
Happy Nuking!
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Have watches, can't locate cat food can or wire of appropriate colors.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Have collected about 20 microwaves as non-working freebies and in process of building a 'beam weapon' to drive off the deer (4x4 horn array with 240V 2/0 copper feeders).
If you do not know what you are doing, do not work on the unit plugged in, the HV is 7kV in most of these units, and there are quite a number of recorded fatalities.
Anyway, here is a list of the 'not working' causes that I've seen, roughly in the order of frequency - never have come across a bad HV transformer or magnetron.
1. by far and away the most common cause of 'not working' is a simple interlock switch having come loose - simply reattach or glue switch back where it belongs
2. like you say, simple fuse blown (for instance, trying to melt Aluminum in a crucible tends to draw a high load - dont ask how I know<G>)
3. touch control pad connection - (i dont try to fix these, as they are not used in my application) For kitchen use, cheaper to buy a whole new microwave
4. power lead to transformer overheat where soldered into control board - simpl resolder with 40/60 vs. 60/40 solder.
For you 'no heat' symptom, I'd check #2 and #4.
>> If you do not know what you are doing,<<
That's a good description!
>> do not work on the unit plugged in,<<
Do know enough for this item!
#1 Will check door switches.
#2 Blown fuse - fuse located and checked - OK - darn! thought I hit the jackpot when I opened it up and saw the fuse.
#4 Will check transformer power lead to board connection.
Thanks.
Jim Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
This may seem like a wacky longshot, but it actually happended to my GE unit which is vented outside. During a very bad rainstorm water managed to work its way into the exterior wall from a backed up gutter. This particular stud space just happened to be the one that held the rectangular. metal duct going horizontally from the microwave, thru the cabinet above and then thru the stud space in question to a flapper vent on the exterior sidewall. The water leaked down the studbay until it came in contact with the flat side of the ductwork.Wall is ballonframed with no insulation or blocking between floors. Because the duct was pitched slightly back to the machine, the water followed the path of least resistance and managed to get inside the housing of the microwave. In particular. it got into the plastic round gizmo that is located on the top inside wall of any microwave. This contains something that looks like a fan blade, which apparently helps to evenly dispurse the energy created by the machine. The water was basically trapped and interfered with the mormal operation of the unit, probably absorbing the heat energy. I only put two and two together when I noticed that water was also on the inside floor of the unit. The round gizmo is nothing but a cover and is held in place with a couple of plastic pins. Sure enough, when i removed it, it was full of water. The unit worked fine once everything dried out. The pins holding the round piece in place broke, but amazingly I was able to find some nylon fastener at HD which worked just fine. Lesson learned...keep those gutters clean.
I know the exactly the gizmo to which you refer, will remove and see if anything is interfering with the operation of the do-hickeys contained within.
I'm really getting good with all these technical microwave part terms!
Thanks.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Last time I went to the ex's place to pick up the kids, the microwave was "broken".
Seems that when she reset the clock at the end of daylight savings time she some how futzed it up.
I unplugged it for about two minutes, plugged it back in, and set the clock.
Wonder of wonders, it worked.
So, if you haven't unplugged it and plugged it back in yet try that first. You have to remember that somewhere in there, there is a computer. Sometimes you just need to shut it off, and let it reset itself. Power surges, or brown outs, and cause them to lock into strange states.
If that doesn't do it, then open it up and see if you can see something that let it's smoke out.
All electrical components contain some amount of smoke. Contrary to what they teach in school, it is the smoke that makes them work, and not the elctrons. If some of the smoke escapes, they still work kind of. If it all escapes they cease working.
The trouble is knowing when too much smoke has been let out... there should be a chart or something.
I fixed mine by resoldering the board where one of the high voltage leads contacted it. I figured this out AFTER buying a new Magnetron tube for $80. (and this was years ago!) It failed again after a year or so, so I added a bit of 14 gauge wire to the board to help strengthen the solder connection, then it held for another 4 or 5 years, it's still working today (originally installed in the late 80's).
BTW, you can access the main board without removing the unit from the wall, which I also discovered after removing it and taking a lot of it apart. : )
Bill
Edited 11/21/2008 9:56 pm ET by PGproject
Edited 11/21/2008 9:57 pm ET by PGproject
Many thanks to all who have replied to my question.
Final outcome:
Having checked fuses, door interlock switches, power leads, smoke emissions, etc. I finally gave up and went microwave shopping.
Found several which I liked and took DW out to see my finds last evening (does this qualify as a date? I digress.....) She agreed with my assessment of the direct replacement -- GE has cheapened it up and it just feels chinsey.
Spent a little extra and bought a model by Whirlpool - more wattage, higher CFM vent fan, etc.
In the process of installing it this morning I needed to cut the ducting hole in the bottom of the cabinet a little bigger as the Whirlpool vent does not exit in exactly the same location, duct is the same size.
DW asked "OMG, does that mean we have to take the cabinet down?"
"Nah." said I.
Retrieved the MM from my truck, DW commented she was not familiar with THAT case or the tool when I removed it from THAT case. I said, "I've had it for a while" (which is true).
Anyhow, I drew a few lines, cut the offending section of the cabinet bottom away and had the duct attached in about 5 minutes.
DW said, "I don't know what you paid for that tool, but it was worth every penny." I could not agree more!
I do think I need to keep it secret as to what blades cost though.........
So the bottom line is I have a new microwave which works great and DW's blessing of the MM.
Thanks again to all.
Jim