7:12 pitch roof, truss ends at stud line with heel height appropriate for 2×8 rafter tail, 1′-10″ overhang, sistered to each truss. What might the truss engineer spec for these trusses, because of the sistered rafter tails? Snow loading here is 60 psf.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
From plumbing failures to environmental near disasters, OHJ staffers dish on our worst and best moments.
Featured Video
How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post CornersHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Why does the truss have to end at the plateline? Can't you order them with tails?
6' hunk of 2x6. 2 16d at 16" o.c., staggered both sides.
But I'm not a truss engineer. Nor do you need one.
Tom
Gene,
As Jim said, why can't you order them with tails?
Unless this is something that is done already.
Joe Carola
They are 2x8s, decorated at the end with a 6" radius fillet cut, and a 2" diameter hole bored through the center.
I'm interested also. Why couldn't they be ordered with a 2x8 tail that you could do the carvings on after?
Gene,
The first picture you have on the thread that Uncle Dunc is talking about is the way that I would do it. I would just adjust your hap cut/heel cut so that the top of your 2x8 is 3/4 lower then the top of your trusses.
Maybe add a 2x8 perpedicular at the top end of your tail for added support in between the trusses. Or a 2x4 perp from the bottom of one tail to the other.
I assume your using a 1x6 T&G or Beadboard so you can nail that on first and the top of that will be even with your trusses, then you can sheath right over your 1x6 and continue your way up the roof.
With 3/4" 1x6 & 5/8" sheathing together you don't have worry about roof nails sticking threw the sheathing for your open soffit.
Joe Carola
Edited 1/1/2003 3:28:46 AM ET by Framer
2x6 would work I to an confussed why no tails shipping issue? 1-10 tails could show a little sag over the years if you don't go back far enough on the truss I would go no less than 30" plus the 1'-10" but thats me and I am kinda of strange
Is this the same discussion we had in October?
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=24319.1
Edited 12/31/2002 8:45:54 PM ET by Uncle Dunc
I don't think the tails would affect the design of the truss at all, unless you had some local codes that required something unusual. ie: Some codes require the overhang to be designed for TWICE the snow load if it isn't an extension of the roof framing member.
Just let the truss company in on what you're doing, and they'll take care of it. I would be surprised if it made any difference at all.
Who were the beta testers for Preparations A through G?