Installation instructions for the new cast iron Kohler tub show its width as 60 inches. They do not specify the R.O. width.
What should the stud-to-stud R.O. width be? The three-wall alcove will be tiled from the tub rim up to 78″ A.F.F.
Edited 1/29/2009 7:51 pm ET by Gene_Davis
Replies
"We" don't deal with these 'standard' tubs to much anymore. eh?
Last time I checked it was 60" maybe (+) a bit, but that (+) might get you in trouble.
It should fit between two walls framed 60" apart.
Thanks, Eric.
What got me thinking about this was this. I have been self-training with Chief Architect software, and when you use the software to "plug" standard tubs from their library of plumbingware into bathroom spaces, a 60" tub won't go into a R.O. of 60.
You either shrink the tub to 59, or up the R.O. to 61.
So I went to the Kohler site and clipped a tub section from a .pdf of their spec sheet for a typical cast iron tub, and patched the .jpg clip into Sketchup, to produce this.
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The section to the R of the lip represents either your studface, if your R.O. is a 60, or your 1/2" wallboard, if you instead build to 61 and temp-shim the tub in place, then slip the wallboard in and down a little when installing.
The other two sections represent 1/2" board and tile finish at 5/16", if you build to 60 and sheet in from there. If you build to 61 and then tile on your board (cement board for the meek and gypsum plus Kerdi for the believers), your tile finish can come onto that rim nicely, then be sealed.
I know there are many tile thicknesses possible, thicker than that, but your everyday glazed wall tile is about 5/16" even with a little build of thinset.
Then, to add to the mess, there is the question of how best to waterproof the joint, and if you wish to use Schluter's Dilex profile, shown here, you might have to leave additional room, if it is to engage the Kohler rim right.
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I know for sure, from practice, that you cannot use the Dilex profile if you have a Kohler tub and have framed to 60. No way.
Hey, I am worn out just thinking about it!
Let's hear how others handle this detail.
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"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
Gene Davis 1920-1985
Edited 1/29/2009 9:02 pm ET by Gene_Davis
L to R + Tile, SR, stud.
SR generally comes down to the top of the lip as in the drawing, then the tile can cover the same lip.
I can't imagine why that drawing sucks as bad as it does.
Dilex won't work, but you know that.
Edited 1/29/2009 9:06 pm ET by EricPaulson
The american standard tub I'm installing at my house calls for 60-1/8" rough, tub measures 60". There's a detail for kerdi where the membrane is set in FIX sealant at the tub.
"that (+) might get you in trouble."LOL, I just framed for a Kohler FG unit and allowed 60-1/4". The PDF showed the unit at 60" and I had room to be able to shim out if needed.The darn thing was actual at 59-5/8" so I had about an inch of play! Plumber looked at me an smiled saying, "Somebody goofed?"
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Gene, sounds to me like there is something in the software that needs to be modified if it won't let you do that right.
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"that (+) might get you in trouble."
LOL, I just framed for a Kohler FG unit and allowed 60-1/4". The PDF showed the unit at 60" and I had room to be able to shim out if needed.Thanks for affirming that. I do so few standard type tubs anymore...........
I do all standard type tubs.... And all 60" tubs, or at least the ones that I have used, are just shy of 60" - like maybe 59 3/4". On the plans I write in "60" EXACTLY" as framers always want to make the opening a little bigger - like maybe 60 1/4". I suspect that their thinking is that it results in fewer callbacks for them, but for me, I end up having to fir out a wall - which is an unnecessary PITA.
I think this is a general mindset for framers - "if it make it a little big there won't be a problem." Same with window and door openings. I often make them tighten up openings with 1/2" OSB or whatever is required. I once punched out a completed house for another superintendent who left the company. All the door openings had been framed at 83 1/2". Drywall guys went with it, and trim guys didn't care enough to tell someone - or at least that is my guess. I had to deal with a house that was complete and had a 1/4" gap above the head casing on at least 1/2 the doors. Really taught me a lesson.
Not ALL tubs are made under 60".I know the reason I learned to fame over size is because of the two that didn't fit without a sawsall and a few four and five letter words.
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Edited 1/30/2009 12:22 pm ET by Piffin