I need to install a 3 piece tub surround in an area 5′ (59 3/4″) x 30. the problem I’m having is the tub is against the drywall on all three sides. When I put the surround in, it doesn’t set on the inside of the lip of the tub, it wants to ride on the top of the lip which will let the water run everywhere.
Do I add three sheets of 1/2″ drywall from the ceiling to just over the tub to hold the surround out, then tape and mud ??
Or, can I add 1/2″ drywall 59″ high, just enough so the surround will hide it with out having to tape and mud, then use ‘foam’ trim to conceal the 1/2″ the surround is out from the wall ??
The total thickness of the surround by itself is be 5/16″, plus the 1/2″ drywall if I go the ‘trim’ idea..
Is there another idea I’m not seeing? Let me know what you think. Thanks
GB
Replies
I'll respond just to keep your post fresh until better answers come. I don't see why you couldn't put new drywall only up 59" and trim it with plastic molding. But if you drywall the whole way up, you'd just have to mud and tape the last 11" or so (and the edes where it meets the ceiling).
Thanks. I feel like I'm being rushed in getting this one done, and I'm bringing that feeling onto myself!! Dumb huh. As far as time goes, I'm right where I said I'd be in the quote. The special order we had was late coming in, now I've got to 'make up' 8 days. Everything's done except this, that's why I really didn't want to mud the corners, dust and all....
Also, I read in the instructions if you need to trim the surround to be even with the edge of the tub, you should use a jigsaw or skill saw..... Any thoughts on this ?? There isn't a trim kit with the surround in case you cut it, but you can special order the kits (edge trim, did I mention this is a pink color tub and accessories?) in case you have to cut the surround edge to fit the tub edge, but it's for 30 to 32 inch tubs...ours is 30, Go figure.
GB
Is the surround acrylic, fiberglas, or styrene? I imagine it isn't styrene since it was a special order. Styrene is cheap and brittle and I don't think a saw would do well on it, but the other two may be okay. I was wondering about a router or Rotozip with a guide. Seems less likely to chip the edges.
I just put in a cheap styrene surround and the owner didn't like the caulk showing where the surround went over the lip of the tub (the tub sloped down to the center of the room and the surround was straight, so the seem between them got progressively wider) so I ended up putting bullnose tile at this seem. There are flexible vinyl trim kits available at "Home Centers", but they seemed kind of chintzy and there wasn't a good way to go over the "flanges" where the panels overlap.
My customer was always pushing me to go faster with subtle little goads that she assured me were not complaints. It's hard not to fall into letting yourself be rushed, but when I'm rushed (or feel rushed) I start making mistakes (and those cost even more time). Hard to do, but try to be cool!
I've decided to pull the tub, cut recesses in the drywall on 2 sides, slide the tub in, then shim out the plumbing wall 3/4 inch all the way to the ceiling, tape and mud. The part that may make me chose another route is the tub itself, this thing is a monster. I'll let you know tomorrow evening....I almost forgot to do it right.....trying to stay cool, thanks.
GB
Wow! Going whole hog! If you've decided that's what's best, go for it. It sounds like a pretty nice bath, so maybe doing the whole shot will be best. You will also see what's really going on with the walls--any water damage and so on. Good luck with pulling and replacing the tub. I had to take out the wallboard around the tub I did the surround for because the old glue left ridges. The fun came when I found out the previous guy had replaced plaster with drywall on shims just to the height of the old enclosure, which was shy of the new one by about an inch, so I used battery powered circular saw to cut the plaster. But I did find evidence of leaks in the old surround; nice to get the punky and moldy drywall out of there.
Did the deed with pulling the tub out, cutting recesses in the 2 walls, adding new 3/4 inch frame and drywall to 3rd wall, all together, about 5.5 hours. It looks good, I'll be able to sleep tonight !!
GB
Good for you! Congrat's! Nothing like the peaceful sleep you get after doing a job right!:-)
That made me think of a movie I saw, I think it was "Gulag Archipelago" where the main character is doing forced labor in Siberia on a community center in a town no one will ever live in--Everyone else is just doing the least amount of effort to keep the guards from beating them and their work is dismal at best. The main character looks back at his brick wall at the end of the day and it is perfect; straight, level, plumb, all the bricks evenly spaced and the mortar struck off. The rest of the building is a falling down wreck.
Is the lip of the tub really sticking out ½" ?
Is the tub resting on a ledger strip on the back wall?
Gord
The tub is cast iron, the thickness across the top of the lip is @.080", I'm guessing the radius from the flat of the tub to the top of the lip is @ 1/2". Also, it's away from the wall....maybe a 1/16".
The ledger is along the 5 foot wall, the tub has 4 large hidden feet. New tub, old space. I think the crate it came in read 236 pounds...It felt like it too.
GB
Sounds more like a little bump than an obstruction. Can't you just lay the surround over the tub on the back wall with a little extra glue to fill in the gap above the tub lip and file back the bottom corner of the sides to get a tight fit?Be Constructive
Gord
St.Margaret's Bay NS
Bump
The final splash of SanchoRon receded from shore and returned to sea.Now but a passing memory to some, the fallen comrade to friends, and an unknown for those to come.The death merchants united dealt the blow to what aim?