I have to install some stair handrails on a residential stairway. Trying to remember UBC requirements: 34-36 inches above the top corner of the risers, 12″ past the first and last riser, return at the ends, ??? I really don’t remember. Thanks.
“he…never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too” – Mark Twain
A new code-compliant, spill-safe outlet from Legrand offers a sleek solution for a kitchen island plug.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
Huck - try this site and scroll down for "stair code info".
Hope it helps... Buic
http://www.mantels-stairs.com/
Thanks! That was the info. I was looking for. Seems like my memory was pretty accurate, but the 12" past, and the returns, appear to be optional on a residential application. "he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Huck:
First the heigth of rail is 34-38" plumb up from front edge of tread nosing , not riser.
Local code may vary on rail length , but mine is, must extend ( min. ) from lower step ( not past step ) to past upper riser. The 12" thing is commerical.
Roger
Roger, just so nobody gets stuck on that 34-38" handrail height...here it's 30-38"...so, apparently, it might be best to check with your local jurisdiction...and residential rails only need to extend from lowest tread nose to the highest nosing... I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
and the returns, appear to be optional on a residential application.
Depends on where you are and who is reading the code. In New Jersey and MOst of Eastern PA anyway returns are in no way " Optional".
Also, make sure you have at least 1 1/2" clear betweent he rail and the wall or any obstructions.
I have a related stair code question -- I'm building a stairway with one side open for the bottom 5 stairs. I was planning for the rail on the open side to go up from the newel post to the end of the wall, then start another railing with a returned end for the rest of the way up. However, the code says the railing must be "continuous". How do I go around this "jog" where the stairs transition from open to closed? The stairway is 48" wide, so I will have a continuous handrail with returned ends on the other side.
Do I have to make a "T" to tie the upper handrail into the lower rail, or use two elbows to make an "S" around the jog, or something else?
I understand the transition you're referring to, but I don't know the answer.
Others on the site have alot of stair experience. Someone should be able to help you out on that point... Buic
Two ells are probably the cleanest way to deal with it...but, you can have two rails if you can figure out how to get the upper one to overlap the lower...I've asked inspectors how to do it, nobody knows...but if they ever see it done, they have to pass it<G> I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
CVBReno;
For your situation, you use 2 90's, to create an S. Going from the balustered rail to the wall rail ( which maintains it as a continuous rail). Bear in mind that a wall rail must be min. 1 1/2" from wall , which also means when you lay out position for your S, where it goes around wall it must also have the 1 1/2" clearence all the way around.
Roger
Thanks, I'll do that.
>> the code says the railing must be "continuous". <<
Here is a link for an IRC booklet that gives a visual representation of stair codes. http://www.arcways.com/IRC2003.pdf Note though that this is IRC not UBC. Look at photo 23 for your specific question.
Also, you might want to check with your local inspections department. In my area, the continuous requirement for only the instance you describe is not enforced.
Two Quarter turn fittings will make the turn.
Even if not required, I would do the returns. You will be glad you did, if you ever stumble going down the stairs and you hand doesn't slide off the end of the rail.
So how would you install the handrail? Around the outside perimeter or on the inside wall? Does it have to be continuous at the landings also? Any suggestions appreciated.
View ImageView Image
"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Huck:
First check local code. Where I live ( Fla. ), they use most of the IRC, but have a few changes. That said what I generally do is run up the inside. This would run continuous. Not knowing the elevation view, as to whether the center wall is all the way ( totally enclosed stairs ) or has a knee wall, up from landing , you may need posts fitting, etc. If you are going with an outside wall rail ( again check with local code ) , where I'm at, the rail doesn't need to run around landing. That said , I always find that the inside is generally the normal walk path. Depending on the width of your stairs you may want to or need to use both.
In looking at you drawing, one thing that catches my eye, who in the world put a closet right at the top of the stairs, not that I haven't seen dumber things on a blue print.
Roger
"what I generally do is run up the inside. This would run continuous."
I was leaning towards the inside myself. The center wall is all the way up, the top angled at the same incline as the stairs at about 4' above the nosings of the top flight, so no posts needed.
The question in my mind concerns the mid-point landing. It has a step in the middle, so the continuous handrail has to take a couple of vertical jumps up as it turns the corner around the center wall. How is that handled gracefully? Got any pics? (similar situation at the bottom of the stairway, do I have to address that, or can my handrail start with the first step of the actual stairway, and ignore the stepped up landing?).View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Like this? How do you reinforce those joints, seems like a lot of stress in that area. Break out the Kreg pocket-hole jig?View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Looks like your pic has landings in it. I might be wrong, but I believe the rail does not have to be continuous across landings.
BTW - that just made me think a bit ;-) Wonder why they call 'em landings :-)
Cuz that is where your butt lands when ya don't have a railing?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" I am not an Activist, I am, a Catalyst. I lay around and do nothing, until another ingredient is added"
similar situation at the bottom of the stairway, do I have to address that, or can my handrail start with the first step of the actual stairway, and ignore the stepped up landing?
OK, I've been playing in the Paint box, and I think I answered my own question.
View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Huck:
After looking at your drawing on post #19, brought back a memory. A few years ago, I was subing installs from a local stair co.. One of their builders had a home model like this. What I did was about the same as you drew. I drew the rail and transition pattern on the wall and just followed it (allowing 1 1/2" spacing around). I just drilled, glued , screwed, and plugged the counterboars. Was a little leary at first, on strength, but with a wall bracket as you show and one just around corner on way down, it was solid as a rock. I will say , as I recall, they were a royal PITA. Took more time than putting in all the skirt boards.
What you show on post #22 I don't think is nessary, as ( check local code ) the rail ( IRC and my local ) only calls for rail going past 2nd riser , above first step ( as in having a post on top first step , volute , etc. ). I would just go past 2nd riser and a 90 ( with compound miter, to twist the 90 ) and return.
Roger
I was wrong - it actually ended up being something like this. The offset from the wall was the difference. I spent way longer than I'd like to admit getting it (and had way more little angled scraps than I'd want you to see), but it looks cool now that its done. Maybe tomorrow my wife will let me take her digital camera to work, and I'll get some pics (man I gotta get my own someday!).
Good thing I got a handrail with a round cross-section (with a flat on the bottom), because there's no way those angles would have worked out otherwise. Even then it was a real head-scratcher, for me. I've definitely gotta pay closer attention to how the stair pro's handle that situation!
Anyhoo, I've worked up a good excuse for taking too long: 110 degree weather, cell phone ringing all day, talkative homeowner, 2-yr. old kid (H.O.'s grandson) that followed me around all day, playing with my tools, getting in the way, etc. Oh yeah, and a house full of teenagers off school for the summer, just generally distracting me, asking questions, etc. (the usual - nice kids, actually).
View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
That looks good, Huck...how'd you end up fastening the joints? Screws and plugs? I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
Screws and plugs?
Yup. Used my Kreg countersink drill bit, put some square drive screws in, and followed up with a dowel plug. Good enough for this neighborhood!"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
one more question to all.
If you have a stairs with one or two steps leading up to a landing where the stairs then continue up 180 degrees in the opposite direction, and a railing one the longer upper portion comes down to a newel post on the landing, is any railing require for the short one or two step section of stairs?
The IRC has a 4 riser rule, so, up to 3 no handrail. Landings don't require rails. Handrails that are interrupted by a newel post are also excepted from the continuous requirement. I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
Thanks, that was my guess.
Also is there a minimum width for stairs in residental homes?
36" between finished walls above the handrail...the exception is not > 26" if the stairs aren't used for egress...that's the NC version of the IRC I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
Huck,
My suggestion for something like that is a PUR glue system. You have to be careful of which glue tube you use but I promise you at least one of them is strong and permenant enough that you would break oak before you could break the glue joint.
View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain