FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

UBC stair handrail code

Huck | Posted in General Discussion on July 19, 2006 08:55am

I have to install some stair handrails on a residential stairway.  Trying to remember UBC requirements: 34-36 inches above the top corner of the risers, 12″ past the first and last riser, return at the ends, ???  I really don’t remember.  Thanks.

“he…never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too” – Mark Twain

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. BUIC | Jul 20, 2006 04:10am | #1

      Huck - try this site and scroll down for "stair code info".

       Hope it helps... Buic

      http://www.mantels-stairs.com/

    1. User avater
      Huck | Jul 20, 2006 08:34am | #2

      Thanks!  That was the info. I was looking for.  Seems like my memory was pretty accurate, but the 12" past, and the returns, appear to be optional on a residential application. "he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

      1. RogerEverett | Jul 21, 2006 09:16pm | #8

        Huck:

        First the heigth of rail is 34-38" plumb up from front edge of tread nosing , not riser.

        Local code may vary on rail length , but mine is, must extend ( min. ) from lower step ( not past step ) to past upper riser. The 12" thing is commerical.

        Roger

        1. Snort | Jul 21, 2006 10:27pm | #9

          Roger, just so nobody gets stuck on that 34-38" handrail height...here it's 30-38"...so, apparently, it might be best to check with your local jurisdiction...and residential rails only need to extend from lowest tread nose to the highest nosing... I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head

      2. robert | Jul 22, 2006 05:25pm | #14

        and the returns, appear to be optional on a residential application. 

        Depends on where you are and who is reading the code. In New Jersey and MOst of Eastern PA anyway returns are in no way " Optional".

         Also, make sure you have at least 1 1/2" clear betweent he rail and the wall or any obstructions.

    2. CVBReno | Jul 20, 2006 07:53pm | #3

      I have a related stair code question -- I'm building a stairway with one side open for the bottom 5 stairs.  I was planning for the rail on the open side to go up from the newel post to the end of the wall, then start another railing with a returned end for the rest of the way up.  However, the code says the railing must be "continuous".  How do I go around this "jog" where the stairs transition from open to closed?  The stairway is 48" wide, so I will have a continuous handrail with returned ends on the other side. 

      Do I have to make a "T" to tie the upper handrail into the lower rail, or use two elbows to make an "S" around the jog, or something else?

       

      1. BUIC | Jul 20, 2006 08:50pm | #4

          I understand the transition you're referring to, but I don't know the answer.

          Others on the site have alot of stair experience.  Someone should be able to help you out on that point... Buic 

      2. Snort | Jul 21, 2006 01:31am | #5

        Two ells are probably the cleanest way to deal with it...but, you can have two rails if you can figure out how to get the upper one to overlap the lower...I've asked inspectors how to do it, nobody knows...but if they ever see it done, they have to pass it<G> I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head

      3. RogerEverett | Jul 21, 2006 09:06pm | #6

        CVBReno;

        For your situation, you use 2 90's, to create an S. Going from the balustered rail to the wall rail ( which maintains it as a continuous rail). Bear in mind that a wall rail must be min. 1 1/2" from wall , which also means when you lay out position for your S, where it goes around wall it must also have the 1 1/2" clearence all the way around.

        Roger

        1. CVBReno | Jul 21, 2006 09:16pm | #7

          Thanks, I'll do that.

      4. User avater
        Matt | Jul 22, 2006 04:52pm | #13

        >> the code says the railing must be "continuous".   <<

        Here is a link for an IRC booklet that gives a visual representation of  stair codes.  http://www.arcways.com/IRC2003.pdf Note though that this is IRC not UBC.  Look at photo 23 for your specific question.

        Also, you might want to check with your local inspections department.  In my area, the continuous requirement for only the instance you describe is not enforced.

      5. robert | Jul 22, 2006 05:26pm | #15

         Two Quarter turn fittings will make the turn.

  2. hammer | Jul 22, 2006 01:07am | #10

    Even if not required, I would do the returns. You will be glad you did, if you ever stumble going down the stairs and you hand doesn't slide off the end of the rail.

    1. User avater
      Huck | Jul 22, 2006 06:22am | #11

      So how would you install the handrail? Around the outside perimeter or on the inside wall? Does it have to be continuous at the landings also? Any suggestions appreciated.

      View ImageView Image

      "he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

      1. RogerEverett | Jul 22, 2006 03:53pm | #12

        Huck:

        First check local code. Where I live ( Fla. ), they use most of the IRC, but have a few changes. That said what I generally do is run up the inside.  This would run continuous. Not knowing the elevation view, as to whether the center wall is all the way ( totally enclosed stairs ) or has a knee wall, up from landing , you may need posts fitting, etc. If you are going with an outside wall rail  ( again check with local code ) , where I'm at, the rail doesn't need to run around landing. That said , I always find that the inside is generally the normal walk path. Depending on the width of your stairs you may want to or need to use both.

         In looking at you drawing, one thing that catches my eye, who in the world put a closet right at the top of the stairs, not that I haven't seen dumber things on a blue print.

        Roger

        1. User avater
          Huck | Jul 22, 2006 05:33pm | #16

          "what I generally do is run up the inside.  This would run continuous."

          I was leaning towards the inside myself.  The center wall is all the way up, the top angled at the same incline as the stairs at about 4' above the nosings of the top flight, so no posts needed.

          The question in my mind concerns the mid-point landing.  It has a step in the middle, so the continuous handrail has to take a couple of vertical jumps up as it turns the corner around the center wall.  How is that handled gracefully?  Got any pics?  (similar situation at the bottom of the stairway, do I have to address that, or can my handrail start with the first step of the actual stairway, and ignore the stepped up landing?).View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

          1. User avater
            Huck | Jul 22, 2006 05:43pm | #17

            Like this? How do you reinforce those joints, seems like a lot of stress in that area. Break out the Kreg pocket-hole jig?View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

          2. User avater
            Matt | Jul 22, 2006 06:08pm | #18

            Looks like your pic has landings in it.  I might be wrong, but I believe the rail does not have to be continuous across landings.

            BTW - that just made me think a bit ;-)  Wonder why they call 'em landings :-)

          3. User avater
            Sphere | Jul 22, 2006 07:18pm | #19

            Cuz that is where your butt lands when ya don't have a railing?

            Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            " I am not an Activist, I am, a Catalyst. I lay around and do nothing, until another ingredient is added"

          4. User avater
            Huck | Jul 22, 2006 09:37pm | #20

            similar situation at the bottom of the stairway, do I have to address that, or can my handrail start with the first step of the actual stairway, and ignore the stepped up landing?

            OK, I've been playing in the Paint box, and I think I answered my own question.

            View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

          5. RogerEverett | Jul 23, 2006 03:36pm | #22

            Huck:

            After looking at your drawing on post #19, brought back a memory. A few years ago, I was subing installs from a local stair co.. One of their builders had a home model like this. What I did was about the same as you drew. I drew the rail and transition pattern on the wall and just followed it (allowing 1 1/2" spacing around). I just drilled, glued , screwed, and plugged the counterboars. Was a little leary at first, on strength, but with a wall bracket as you show and one just around corner on way down, it was solid as a rock. I will say , as I recall, they were a royal PITA. Took more time than putting in all the skirt boards.

             What you show on post #22 I don't think is nessary, as ( check local code ) the rail ( IRC and my local ) only calls for rail going past 2nd riser , above first step ( as in having a post on top first step , volute , etc. ). I would just go past 2nd riser and a 90 ( with compound miter, to twist the 90 ) and return.

            Roger

          6. User avater
            Huck | Jul 25, 2006 08:29am | #23

            I was wrong - it actually ended up being something like this. The offset from the wall was the difference. I spent way longer than I'd like to admit getting it (and had way more little angled scraps than I'd want you to see), but it looks cool now that its done. Maybe tomorrow my wife will let me take her digital camera to work, and I'll get some pics (man I gotta get my own someday!).

            Good thing I got a handrail with a round cross-section (with a flat on the bottom), because there's no way those angles would have worked out otherwise. Even then it was a real head-scratcher, for me. I've definitely gotta pay closer attention to how the stair pro's handle that situation!

            Anyhoo, I've worked up a good excuse for taking too long: 110 degree weather, cell phone ringing all day, talkative homeowner, 2-yr. old kid (H.O.'s grandson) that followed me around all day, playing with my tools, getting in the way, etc. Oh yeah, and a house full of teenagers off school for the summer, just generally distracting me, asking questions, etc. (the usual - nice kids, actually).

            View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

          7. User avater
            Huck | Jul 26, 2006 04:59pm | #25

            View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

          8. User avater
            Huck | Jul 26, 2006 05:05pm | #26

            View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

          9. Snort | Jul 26, 2006 08:04pm | #29

            That looks good, Huck...how'd you end up fastening the joints? Screws and plugs? I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head

          10. User avater
            Huck | Jul 27, 2006 01:13am | #32

            Screws and plugs?

            Yup.  Used my Kreg countersink drill bit, put some square drive screws in, and followed up with a dowel plug.  Good enough for this neighborhood!"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

          11. DoRight | Jul 26, 2006 06:26pm | #27

            one more question to all.

            If you have a stairs with one or two steps leading up to a landing where the stairs then continue up 180 degrees in the opposite direction, and a railing one the longer upper portion comes down to a newel post on the landing, is any railing require for the short one or two step section of stairs?

          12. Snort | Jul 26, 2006 08:02pm | #28

            The IRC has a 4 riser rule, so, up to 3 no handrail. Landings don't require rails. Handrails that are interrupted by a newel post are also excepted from the continuous requirement. I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head

          13. DoRight | Jul 26, 2006 11:25pm | #30

            Thanks, that was my guess.

            Also is there a minimum width for stairs in residental homes?

          14. Snort | Jul 27, 2006 12:10am | #31

            36" between finished walls above the handrail...the exception is not > 26" if the stairs aren't used for egress...that's the NC version of the IRC I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head

          15. robert | Jul 22, 2006 11:21pm | #21

             Huck,

                              My suggestion for something like that is a PUR glue system. You have to be careful of which glue tube you use but I promise you at least one of them is strong and permenant enough that you would break oak before you could break the glue joint.

          16. User avater
            Huck | Jul 26, 2006 04:06am | #24

            View Image"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Simple and Discreet Countertop Power

A new code-compliant, spill-safe outlet from Legrand offers a sleek solution for a kitchen island plug.

Featured Video

How to Install Exterior Window Trim

Learn how to measure, cut, and build window casing made of cellular PVC, solid wood, poly-ash boards, or any common molding material. Plus, get tips for a clean and solid installation.

Related Stories

  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details
  • A New Approach to Foundations
  • A Closer Look at Smart Water-Leak Detection Systems
  • Guest Suite With a Garden House

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data