Uninsulated Kitchen Soffit & Cold
When changing the lightbulb over the sink, my hubby noticed that cold air was swooping in from the soffit in which the recessed canister light was located. I think the u-shaped soffit around the kitchen is not insulated. If you open a cabinet suspended from the soffit on the outside wall it is full of cold air. It seems only the outside wall is affected.
There are 4 canned lights and their heat to be considered. We’re at a loss for a solution on this. Note, this is a first floor kitchen, with a second story just above, no attic on the first floor level in which to work. As for heat source, we have gas heat and the vent is just under the kitchen sink, which was a great plan as it stays warm under there so the pipes are less prone to freeze on an outside wall. No ceiling vents on the first floor. I think the soffit is decorative rather than for duct work, otherwise, I don’t see how the lights could fit in. The soffit is about 9″ high.
Any suggestions for solution in our older home? Thanks in advance.
Replies
It is probable that they didn't sheet the interior of wall behind that soffit with sheetrock. Outside of opening up the face of the soffit, don't know how you could get to it to sheet it (and that wouldn't be easy.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
You can replace the can lights. I think that there are old work (remodeler's) cans that are AIR TIGHT, insulation contact.
You can also reach throguh the can openings and put in some Great stuff, but depending on the space you are likely to get more on you than sealing the space.
You could also stuff FG insualtion through the holes. I suspect that will be only marginal improvement.
I suspect that the only way that you will get much benifit is if you open up the soffit and have clear space to work.
makes me wonder if any of the house is insulated.
Dan
Thanks for the info. Calvin, I suspect you are right.
On replacing the canned light, it is original. That might be worth a try, though I have the aluminum wiring issue to consider.
To the last post, I'm certain there is some insulation in the house. When they tore out the adjacent dining room window to install a door on the same outside wall, I actually saw insulation there. Seems like the builder didn't address the soffit area insulation correctly.
Maybe my best hope is that dear ol hubby will forget the issue....
Thanks again!
You could blow in some insulation. You would also have to replace the canned lights with ones approved for contact with insulation.
Having said that, the cost might be more than the savings.
I have seen in too many houses where there is insulation but some detail is left wide open. Letting the outside air in.
Seems like the builder didn't address the soffit area insulation correctly.
For the record......there is not necessarily a way to insulate a soffit "correctly". In fact, if the house is properly insulated, a soffit that exists for aesthetic reasons only, would not be insulated.
Given the information provided thus far, the builder is guilty of nothing.
To your question of what should be done......I`d suggest opening the soffet completely. At least along the exterior wall(s). I think it was Calvin who suggested that the wall surface within might not have been attentioned. I agree, and would start there.
First thing that comes to my mind though....any chance there`s an exhaust duct (from microwave, hood vent, etc.) that might be running to the outside up in there? Check to make sure its seeled properly at its exit point through exterior wall. You also might want to consider wrapping the duct itself in insulation. The cold air within may be causing the draft you feel around recessed lighting. This is all, of course, going on the assumption that a duct exists. As I said....open it up....take a peek. You`ll not be attentioning the problem correctly (no matter what it is) without doing so.
All the best.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
J.D., thank you for the response. I was not slighting a builder who operated when I was in gradeschool. For all I know, it could have been done to code or "standard" at the time the home was built. That said, you raise an interesting point.
The soffit wall section in question is on the south face. The exhaust/microwave is on the west, with a room on the other side of the wall. I notice the micro is cold in the winter and this summer it seemed warmer. It vents to the outside with the duct running up through a cabinet above the built-in micro/exhaust above the stove. I'm guessing it must run through the soffit. There is a good size metal box in the cabinet. I just checked it and the cabinet seems normal temp. I have not noticed any evidence of sweating or excessive cold on duct/vent part that I can see.
Based on your observation, if I look at the outside exhaust outlet, do I just caulk around it? Wrapping the part I can see in the cabinet would be no big problem, but our budget will not allow the optimal tear out. We're looking at some big ticket issues come spring and the expense for a tear out/repair is lower on the list than the roof tear off, driveway, garage doors, and so on.....
We are minimal DIY'ers with no buddies in the trade. Do you think insulating what little I can see inside and caulking the outside would be of any benefit - or just a tiny band-aid at best? If so, what do you recommend insulating for the 15" to 18" inside the cabinet? (Food storage items in there.) Being the doofus I am, a cheap fleece blanket ($5 at Target?) with cable ties seems like a non-professional, but do-able fix. (LOL!) I'm thinking the solution may be in the soffit. If so, and we can't do the tear out, would these minimal measures even be worth the time and effort?
I know you are probably thinking "cheap". I am just trying to prioritize issues and expense vs. budget. In other words, a big needed roof tear-off is higher than a leaky can light, if you know what I mean in this sense. And, we've been here 20 years and are empty nesters. Certain things are must-do. Others vary in importance to our should do's. Were we new here, the should do's would have a higher priority. I want to have things sound and marketable, but want to spend the money in the most practical way. I have learned that doing all that great stuff is better done when you can enjoy the fruit, if you know what I mean. What a juggling act! Again, thank you for your input. I look forward to your insight on the new issue and recommendations, if you are so inclined. I didn't marry a "handy guy" who knows how to do all this stuff, but wouldn't trade him for the world. Maybe I need to learn how to do more myself, however, it scares me!
Where are you located?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin, I'm in Indy.
Bummer, Rich Beckman is in Marion. Maybe he could help you. How far is that?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Caulking the vent at the outside would be a start.....unfortunately, unless there are major gaps surrounding it, results are likely to be minimal at best. Insulating the duct within the cabinet won`t do you much good. By that time the cold air has already entered the soffet.
I understand your need to prioritize your projects and that the money tree in the backyard may not be bareing the quantity of fruits we wish it would. That said, even the most extensive fix to the problem is unlikely to cost you what you`ve considered in spending to have an electrician install new recessed lighting......especially if you`re willing to do some of the work yourself.
Much as I hate to do it, I`m gonna assume (ugh), that the soffet is drywall. If thats the case, you`ll likely be able to handle it on your own.
Opening the soffet will require a hammer and prybar at most. Be careful to only remove the drywall, leaving the framing intact. Don`t bother opening areas you don`t need to enter. Once you do this, you`ll have access to the area of the wall where the duct exits. Make sure whoever poked it outside replaced the insulation within the bay that the duct passes through. You can then wrap the duct with proper insulation. Your local Big Box store should carry it for various sized ductwork. Insulating the entire soffet, might give you peice of mind.....but in honesty, would be overkill.
Cutting and installing new sheetrock to close up the soffets, might take a little practice, but is certainly not beyond the scope of a DIY project. Taping, however, might be. Getting it nice and smooth anyhow. But again, with practice and some additional sanding, you`ll be able to get it done. Prime and paint and your golden.
I don`t think materials could cost you $100.....even if you shopped at the most expensive lumber yard you could find.
I don`t do too many projects of this nature....were I to do it, I might charge somewhere in the $500-$700 range. I`d bet you could find a handyman type outfit to do it for less. Especially if you do even a portion of the work such as the painting.
I certainly agree......a new roof far outweighs a minor draft coming through a light fixture. I hope the above information helps in your decision making. I`m not always clear in my "how to" descriptions. If you have any other questions.....feel free.
All the best!
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Can you access the soffit from the attic? Go up there and fill them with loose cellulose. As others mentioned, the light cans will have to be replaced with IC-type (rated for insulation contact).