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I am turning a 3-season timber frame ‘cabin’ into year-round use on the shore of Lake Michigan (cold, wind, snow in winter plus heat/humidity in summer). 4×8 solid oak walls and 2×6 t&g ceiling are uninsulated. To preserve the wonderful, ‘hunting lodge’ interior, all work must be done on the outside.
If I ‘build up’ walls and roof with conventional framing members, I can use rigid foam or f.glass insulation (with appropriate vapor barrier) and easily provide an air space for moving air to remove moisture. Another option would be insulating foam panels w/ OSB attached (SIPs) for nailing surface.
Question: if I use SIPs, should I provide an airspace? SIP manufacturers say “no”..but that is contrary to all my training/experience over the years. I plan to use metal roofing (most likely) and log-look siding for finished surfaces.
What is the best route? I’d like to do this correctly and most appropriately the first time vs. “no time to do it right…but time to do it again!”
Replies
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I am turning a 3-season timber frame 'cabin' into year-round use on the shore of Lake Michigan (cold, wind, snow in winter plus heat/humidity in summer). 4x8 solid oak walls and 2x6 t&g ceiling are uninsulated. To preserve the wonderful, 'hunting lodge' interior, all work must be done on the outside.
If I 'build up' walls and roof with conventional framing members, I can use rigid foam or f.glass insulation (with appropriate vapor barrier) and easily provide an air space for moving air to remove moisture. Another option would be insulating foam panels w/ OSB attached (SIPs) for nailing surface.
Question: if I use SIPs, should I provide an airspace? SIP manufacturers say "no"..but that is contrary to all my training/experience over the years. I plan to use metal roofing (most likely) and log-look siding for finished surfaces.
What is the best route? I'd like to do this correctly and most appropriately the first time vs. "no time to do it right...but time to do it again!"