OK, this is a real newbie question but I need the help, so…
Can someone explain the proper use of a belt sander? I have two upper kitchen cabinets and the face frame on one of the cabinets is about an 1/8″ proud of the other cabinet’s face frame. I simply want to sand it down to be flush with the other face frame. Can’t move the cabinet for a bunch of reasons. I’ve tried using a belt sander in the past for other projects, but have always ended up with gouges, valleys, etc. Any advice? Many thanks, as always.
Mike
Replies
First, I'd probably use a block plane to remove most of the material, and then finish with a random orbit sander. I think there's much less chance of screwing things up that way. Plus you won't get the cross grain scratches that you will with a belt sander.
I think a belt sander is best used on horizontal surfaces, where the weight of the tool works for you.
Keep it square, keep it moving, and don't try to hurry the job. Start with maybe 80 grit and move up through finer grits. You might want to make sure you can match the color and finish of the cabs before you start sanding tho'. Also make sure your sanding doesn't interfere with the fit of your doors or the positioning of the hinges. Your "fix" may end up looking worse than before you started if you don't take these things into account.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Should have said -- the cabinets are to be painted.
For removing such a small amount of material, I'll often use a sanding stick (I just made up that name). I use rubber cement to glue a piece of sandpaper to a straight, flat stick about 2' long so that I have something that looks like a very large file. Only 1 end gets sandpaper for about 8".
The length helps to keep it flat and the size provides a good grip. Masking tape prevents scratches on the surface that's not getting sanded.
Skip the rubber cement and get a couple of rolls of PC sticky-back paper. I've used it on everything from 1x4s to tongue depressors to drywall knives (for cleaning up inside corners where the drywall sander can't get).The pre-glued stuff makes it SOOO easy!AitchKay
I'm with Shep. Go for the block plane first to get it down close and then random orbit sander.
I have have the Bosch 3" x 21" belt sander for using on furniture because it's got much more control and is a little lighter duty than most other sanders of the same size, but even so, holding it at the wrong angle one time will give you a nice little gouge.
If it's just one joint that's proud, you can also skip the plane if you don't have one and just go with ROS starting with 60 grit or so and moving up. I wouldn't go that route if you had a whole run of cabinets to do, but one shouldn't be a problem.
Any chance you can loosen up the one cabinet and shim it out to match the one protruding?